Slow Travel the Way to Connect in Asia
International borders across much of Asia, and indeed most of the world, remain closed to travel as governments continue their attempts to control the novel coronavirus pandemic. Regional economies languish under the loss of revenue from international tourism while people lament the withdrawal of their freedom to travel.
Travel trend surveys suggest post-Covid travellers will have a greater domestic focus with road and train travel preferred over jumping on a plane. People will also eschew oft crowded hot-spots, seeking the outdoors where safe social distancing is more feasible.
Digital travel platform Agoda’s Next Decade Travel survey suggests over 40% of travellers in the 55+ age groups are most likely to want to explore more of their own countries and territories. In fact, travellers from China, Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia, the Philippines, Taiwan, Thailand, US, and Vietnam chose domestic destinations within their top three wishlist choices for the coming decade.
Those who plan to venture internationally have indicated that taking a more deliberate approach in their travels, delving deeper into a location rather than ticking off many destinations will be their focus and strategy. ‘Slow travel’ is the term often used to describe this approach.
Slow travel is about going deeper and connecting to local communities. Image: Rolands Varsbergs
Slow travel is an offshoot of the slow food movement, which began in Italy in the 1980s as a protest against its antithesis – fast food. Slow food is about preserving regional cuisines, local farming, communal meals, and traditional food preparation methods. This cultural initiative has now grown into a whole way of life known as the Slow Movement, which emphasises connection — connection to food, connection to families, and, in the case of travel, connection to local people and culture.
Indeed, slow travel is about connecting to the soul of a place through its history, food, language, and people rather than chasing bucket list ticks and Instagram photos. Exploring ‘the places in between’ could also be an excellent way to think about slow travel.
With this concept of slow travel in mind, I asked my fellow xyzAsia correspondents to share their ideas and suggestions for slow travel in their favourite Asian countries. But let’s start first with the country where I live – Thailand.
Road tripping in Thailand
The World Health Organization (WHO) heralded both ‘The Land of Smiles’ and New Zealand as successful models in their handling and curbing of Covid-19. So when Thailand does reopen to international travellers, tourism authorities hope this success will provide additional reassurance for would-be visitors.
I’ve been living in and exploring Thailand’s many corners for five years now and I would recommend road tripping as an excellent way to get to know its unique attractions, while avoiding crowded locations. I love how you control the pace of travel when road tripping, and have flexibility with your day-to-day itinerary. It becomes more about enjoying the journey as much as the destinations.
Thailand’s highways are generally well maintained and easy to drive. Image: Marcus Winkler
With its excellent highway systems, Thailand is an easy country for road tripping. And at two thousand kilometres from the most northern district to its most southern on the Thai-Malaysia border, there is a lot of country to explore. Add to that 3,219 km of coastline, and beach-combing road trip options abound.
A diverse and fun road trip through the Central provinces to the immediate north and north-west of Bangkok would be one of my first recommendations.
It all starts with an hour’s drive from Bangkok to Ayutthaya, one of the original capitals of Siam. Founded in 1350, Ayutthaya was one of Asia’s grandest cities until Burmese forces overran it in 1767. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Ayutthaya Historical Park is essential viewing for history-inclined travellers. Ayutthaya City, which now surrounds the historical park, offers accommodation options from family-run guest houses to more upscale abodes.
Built on an island between the Chao Phraya, Lopburi and Prasak rivers, the inner city was fortified by a 12 kilometre long and five metre thick brick wall. A great option is to grab one of the readily available rental bicycles and spend a day or two exploring the historical park, then venture out to some of the other archaeological and historical sites surrounding this area. A sunset cruise on the river adds another perspective.
The Ayutthaya Historical Park is definitely worth a visit. Image: © Michael Cullen
Ayutthaya Boat Museum, the Bang Sai Royal Folk Art and Crafts Center, and the Royal family’s Bang Pa-In Summer Palace are all also worth visiting. On the food front, be sure to try Ayutthaya's giant freshwater river prawns usually served grilled in their shells with a Thai spicy seafood sauce. For something sweet, try Roti Sai Mai, a thin round roti wrapping around colourful candy floss.
Just two hours drive east of Ayutthaya is the region of Khao Yai with one of Thailand’s best national parks of the same name. The village of Mu Si offers a variety of accommodation and related services and is closest to the main national park entrance.
When travelling from Ayutthaya to Khao Yai, you pass through the Suraburi region, home to over 10,000 acres of sunflower fields. During the cooler season of November and December, Suraburi’s fields and roadsides are filled with blooming sunflowers. Well worth stopping.
Thailand's most visited and oldest national park, Khao Yai covers 2,168 sq km. It incorporates one of mainland Asia’s largest remaining intact monsoon forests, a key reason it was named a Unesco World Heritage site. Despite its size, it's one of the most accessible national parks for independent travellers.
A well-maintained walking trail in the Khao Yai National Park. Image: © Michael Cullen
With more than 50 km of hiking and biking trails, the Park also shelters diverse wildlife such as bears, gibbons, elephants and one of the largest populations of hornbills in Thailand. Its many waterfalls include the 150 metre tall Haew Narok and 20 metre tall Haew Suwat, immortalised by Leonardo DiCaprio in the Danny Boyle film 'The Beach.'
Staying within the Park in the rudimentary furnished cabins saves you the daily entry fee while also giving you access to the trails in the early morning and at sunset when wildlife is most active. The night safaris are highly recommended.
Khao Yai’s lush valleys outside the park are also home to two commercial wineries – PB Valley Winery, owned by one of Thailand’s biggest brewers, and the family-owned GranMonte vineyards with their internationally acclaimed wines and Thailand’s first female winemaker. Both offer onsite restaurants and accommodation amongst the vines. Four championship golf courses are within the region, as well as several popular agritourism businesses, and for the art orientated, check out Khao Yai Art Museum and the 129 Art Museum.
A vineyard of the GranMonte Estate Winery at Khao Yai. Image: © Michael Cullen
Travelling further east from Khao Yai has you entering the southern regions of Isaan which you can read about here.
And now for some ideas from our other correspondents. Given that Vietnam is likely to be one of the first countries in Southeast Asia to reopen to international tourists, let’s check out some recommendations from freelance travel writer Samantha Coomber who has lived in Vietnam for over a decade and is regarded as an expert on the country:
Far from the madding crowd in Vietnam
Vietnam’s borders have been shut since March – one reason why that country emerged as one of the world’s most successful in containing Covid-19. No official date has yet been given to open up the borders, but once done, the Vietnamese authorities say they will do their utmost to curb any potential pandemic outbreaks.
Author of two guidebooks covering Vietnam’s north and south, Samantha has two recommendations which are her favourite slow travel destinations. Both are distanced far from the madding crowd and urban areas that are more vulnerable to the pandemic.
Rural areas of Vietnam offer the best opportunities for slow travel. Image: © Samantha Coomber
They are the uppermost north-west region of Vietnam and the southern Mekong River Delta. They are utterly contrasting destinations at the very top and very bottom of the country, but both boasting some of Vietnam’s most stunning scenery and friendliest locals. She describes them as “slow travel bordering on the snooze button.”
The Mekong Delta is a lush, tropical delta totally dominated and dependent on Southeast Asia’s mightiest river. It seems almost a world away from frenetic Ho Chi Minh City, which is only a two-hour drive away. Samantha recommends that visitors should travel well beyond the overtly touristy gateway, My Tho, for a more authentic and peaceful delta experience.
“This is Vietnam’s most productive agricultural region which reveals an intensively cultivated and picturesque landscape of paddy fields, banana plantations, coconut groves and fruit orchards,” she says. “This, along with Khmer temples, stilt-house villages and a simple rustic way of life, makes the delta so appealing.”
“Travellers tend to rush through on one or two-day tours from Ho Chi Minh City, which don’t do the place justice – so take it slow. As flat as a pancake, the delta is ideal for a leisurely bicycle tour, cycling deep into the countryside to small hamlets and riverside cottage industries and overnighting at family homestays or boutique eco-resorts.
A local barge plies one of the many tributaries of the Mekong Delta. Image: © Samantha Coomber
“Alternatively, book a multi-day voyage on the Mekong River, anything from deluxe cruisers to converted rice barges, drifting past fascinating river life – some, cruising all the way north to Cambodia. There’s plenty of opportunities to board smaller vessels, penetrating the network of slender-thin waterways overhung with foliage, for up-close encounters with morning floating markets and riverbank dwellers.
“Travelling further westwards, you’ll reach the delta’s west coast and sleepy seaside communities, a charming snooze-fest which few visit. But note that during the rainy season, roughly May to October, parts of the delta can experience flooding,” she added
According to Samantha, Vietnam’s most mountainous region, up near the Chinese border, might as well be on another planet. “Not many tourists, even foreigners who live here, travel to the remote north-west region, which is almost inexplicable, as it undoubtedly boasts Vietnam’s most spectacular scenery.
The countryside surrounding Bac Ha in the northwest highlands. Image: © Samantha Coomber
“Expect forested mountains, dramatic terraced rice fields and bucolic farming valleys. This region is also home to nearly two-thirds of Vietnam's 54 ethnic groups. While travelling off-the-beaten-track – a highlight of this region – you’ll spot diverse ethnic groups heading to weekly markets and tending the fields, distinguishable by their traditional and colourful attire.
“It’s a slow journey to even get there. First, take the overnight train from Hanoi to Lao Cai (the border town to China) — either the public train with bunk beds or a luxurious alternative called the Victoria Express which is operated by Victoria Resort Sapa and offers an Agatha Christie-evocative journey.
“Alighting early morning, you are then driven for an hour or so to Sapa, a former French hill-station, or the less-commercialised Bac Ha. Based in either town, strike out on guided treks across stunning valleys and highlands — from a gentle half-day to more demanding multi-day tours — for up-close encounters with local minority folk and overnight stays in rustic stilt houses.
Flower Hmong women vendors at Bac Ha market, Vietnam. Image: © Samantha Coomber
“The more adventurous could hire a motorbike with driver (Russian Minsk’s the preferred transport there), or a four-wheel drive, to explore virtually deserted roads in jaw-dropping isolated parts, climbing high amongst soaring, jade-hued mountains and hairpin bends coiled around stacked rice fields.”
Samantha recommends visiting the north-west between late March and November because she says that during winter months (December to early March) temperatures can plummet, with frost and occasional snow, and heavy mists may obscure the amazing mountain views.
By train from Kuala Lumpur to Ipoh
Malaysia has not yet announced when it will reopen to international tourists. But when it does, foreign visitors are likely to avoid crowded areas and look for different ways of seeing the country.
xyzAsia senior correspondent Alan Williams, who has lived in Malaysia for many years, suggests taking a leisurely train journey from Kuala Lumpur to the city of Ipoh, around 200 km to the north as a means of experiencing slow travel.
The historic railway station (foreground) in Kuala Lumpur. Image: © Alan Williams
The trip takes less than two-and-a-half-hours. It allows you to kick back and watch Malaysia's tropical scenery passing by. You can read, listen to your favourite music or simply relax and do nothing, as the fancy takes you.
The route is considered the centrepiece of the services provided by the national rail operator, KTM. The reliable, modern trains offer comfort and a lack of crowding, with reclining aircraft-style seats arranged in pairs.
Understandably, there will be those who are still reluctant to use public transport of any kind. These concerns may start to ease when international tourism returns, and in any case, the train coaches have a less congested feel than most international flights.
Several trains ply the route each day. Go to the KTM website to check the schedules, buy your ticket and confirm a seat.
On board KTM’s Kuala Lumpur to Ipoh train. Image: © Alan Williams
The cost of the ticket depends on what train you take. The ETS (Express Train Service) platinum class train makes the fewest stops and completes the journey in the fastest time. The gold and silver class trains are a little slower.
Alan's recommendation is to take the platinum or gold class, as they're less crowded than the silver class. Whatever class you opt for, the fare won't break you: the one-way platinum fare is the equivalent of only US$11, the gold fare around US$9 and the silver fare around US$6.
Light refreshments are served along the way, but you'll probably want to take snacks and drinks of your own.
The train leaves from Kuala Lumpur's main transport hub, the bustling KL Sentral. But Alan's suggestion is to catch it at the next stop, the famous old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station. Completed in 1910 in grand colonial style, it's far less crowded, and the architecture is well worth taking a look at while you wait for your train.
At the other end of the journey, you'll see another of Malaysia's historic railway stations. The ornate Ipoh Railway Station opened in 1917 and is a fine example of British colonial architecture.
The colonial architectural style of the railway station at Ipoh. Image: © Alan Williams
Ipoh is Malaysia's third-largest city and is a great place to explore. If you're on a day trip, you can have a meal – it's renowned for its food – or take a stroll around town before catching the train back to Kuala Lumpur. The Tourist Information Centre is a short walk from the station and can give you details of heritage walks.
A more leisurely way of seeing Ipoh is to spend at least one night there. The accommodation ranges from budget hotels to outstanding luxury resorts that offer plenty of personal space.
"And if you want to continue further north by train, you can head for Penang with its many beach resorts - or go all the way to Thailand if you so choose," Alan says.
Slow trains the way to see South Korea
Recently South Korea opened its borders to most countries, but there's still a mandatory 14-day quarantine until you can move around freely.
With a mix of beautiful, spacious parklands amongst modern high-rise buildings and ancient palaces, colourful Hanok villages, bustling markets, shopping and K-Pop nightlife, it's easy to see why people are attracted to South Korea's capital, Seoul. But this least explored Asian country has so much more to offer.
There are lots of opportunities for slow travel in South Korea. Image: Marcus Winkler
It's not called the Land of the Morning Calm just because it sounds beautiful. Its rich history, fascinating traditions, ancient culture, delicious food, a variety of cosmopolitan cities, stunning rugged mountains, a treasure of little islands, surprising beaches and many hidden gems are worth discovering at a slower pace.
Last winter our Senior Correspondent, Nannette Holliday, spent six, slow, delicious weeks travelling around South Korea in-between a two-week house/pet sit in Daejeon (the science and university capital of central South Korea) — her excuse for discovering more of this captivating country.
She's not alone in saying the cheapest and easiest way to travel around all of South Korea is by train (Korail), either the fast (KTX) express, Saemaeul (ITX) or slow trains (Mugunghwa).
South Korea has an efficient and economical railway system. Image: Yubong Jenog
"The public transport system is clean, safe and easy to understand even if you don't speak or read Korean and it's best to purchase tickets online first," Nannette says. "If you are planning on doing a multitude of train travel, foreigners can also buy a Korail Pass."
KTX offers plush assigned seats with travelling time between Seoul and Busan (one of the busiest routes) the main southern port, taking a mere two and a half hours. In contrast, the Mugunghwa takes five and a half hours. With fewer people on the slow train and stops at almost all-stations along the way it's the perfect opportunity to get off and have a look around these little villages and re-board the next train heading to your destination, provided you complete the journey the same day.
"My way of experiencing a culture is through its culinary delights — and Korea's didn't disappoint," Nannette says. "The street food everywhere is mind-blowing. The pojangmachas (food stalls) and many markets are healthy, delicious and cheap. But eating in local restaurants, particularly in the country areas where tourists are scarce, I found myself the centre of attention and congratulated when they realised I could use chopsticks and enjoyed their spicier ingredients, all washed down with local Soju."
Street food is available everywhere in South Korea. Image: © Nannette Holliday
If you want fewer crowds, Nannette recommends staying in Seoul's neighbouring port city, Incheon, a ten-minute drive from the international airport. Many trains, buses and taxis service Incheon for day trips to Seoul or surrounding areas.
Enjoy the peaceful white sandy beach of Eurwagni. Stroll or bike your way around the 727-acre grounds of Grand Park flanked either side by the Gwanmosan and Sangassan Mountains. Relax and rejuvenate in a variety of swimming pools, fitness room, cave rooms, a restaurant, movie theatre and billiards room at Incheon's Spasis (spa and sauna centre). It rivals popular Spa Land in Busan.
Sample Korea's top-notch street foods from spicy rice cakes, kimchi, kimbap and the renowned juicy, crispy-skinned dakgangjeong (deep-fried chicken) at Sinpo International Markets or check out Incheon's Chinatown restaurants. For the freshest seafood visit Sorae Pogu traditional fish market and the finest Korean barbeque, Buam Galbi is a must. You'll even find celebrities sitting amongst the locals.
A delicious seafood meal at an Incheon restaurant. Image: © Nannette Holliday
An hour east of Seoul the fortress city of Suwon boasts picturesque hiking trails around Bukhansan National Park. Further afield, partake in winter skiing in the Taebaek Mountain region, which hosted the 2018 Winter Olympics and Winter Paralympics in Pyeongchang or enjoy a peaceful hike through the lesser visited Taebaeksan National Park in autumn or summer, with well-marked routes for beginners to advanced hikers.
The Korean coastline is dotted with an array of fascinating islands, Nannette's favourite is dormant volcanic Jeju Island, a Biosphere and Cultural Heritage Reserve. A good day trip from Busan, also sees women divers searching for abalone, clams and other sea delights or the canola and cherry blossoms from late March to mid-April.
Even if you can't travel to South Korea right now, interactive Korean cooking classes and live-streamed walking tours can keep that wanderlust alive.
Relaxing among the rice fields of Bali
Bali has recently opened to local tourists and will reopen to international travellers on September 11th which is good news for our writer Jillian Huntley who is looking forward to the day she can return to Bali. As a regular traveller to Bali, it is the rice fields that have captivated her, and it is to Ubud she will return to stay in the Balinese homestays among the rice fields.
Jillian says it’s not just the beauty of the rice fields; it is a sense of slowing down, connecting with nature and the welcoming community through appreciating an unhurried pace of life. She says that while every rice field is beautiful in its own way, there is something special about the timeless, ancient culture of rice fields that have been cultivated for a thousand years with traditional agricultural methods. Jillian says that taking time out to quietly sit and watch the activities of the rice fields brings with it an opportunity to contemplate and reflect on one’s own life.
Workers harvesting rice near Ubud, Bali, Indonesia. Image: © Jillian Huntley
To see women singing joyfully as they harvest the rice, sharing their lunch and hearing their laughter ring across the fields is a reminder of the value of teamwork and community. And to see the duck herder, waving his white flag, and marshalling a cacophony of bustling, quacking ducks, into the fields as he gives them orders to get on and clean up the fields for the next planting is worth taking time out to observe.
Jillian says there is something about the simplicity, the serenity, the ancient rituals, and the spiritual offerings to the Gods, combined with the connection to the community of being welcomed and accepted that calls her back time and again to the wonderful home stay families who live among the ancient rice fields of Ubud. It’s a perfect example of what we mean by slow travel.
Island retreats in the Philippines
One country that probably won't be reopening to international tourists this year is the Philippines. The coronavirus pandemic is still not under control in Manila and Cebu and many provinces, although there are a few regions of the country that have escaped infections completely. The Philippines is unlikely to see any arrivals for leisure travel until at least 2021.
When foreign travellers are admitted, most will want to find destinations where they can continue to exercise social distancing because there will still likely be some levels of community transmission of Covid-19 in local areas for perhaps years to come. In the Philippines, where our editor David Astley lives, there are many options for slow travel depending on your budget.
Luxury resorts provide space for social distancing. Image: © David Astley
David says that if you are a luxury traveller and used to staying in high-end resorts, then flying into Mactan International Airport and then directly onto one of the island resorts is a good option. That avoids transiting through Manila, and gets you straight into a resort setting where you will have plenty of space to yourself. If your budget doesn't stretch to 5-star resorts, then Cebu will be a good gateway when travelling to either Camiguin or Siquijor islands. Both of which are not crowded and offer a good range of middle-range resorts and some excellent eating places.
Camiguin and Siquijor are also good options for budget travellers, as there are ferry services from Cebu to both islands via Tagbilaran and Dumaguete respectively, which make the travel costs very cheap. Take the slow Ro-Ro ferries with the large open-air decks (but still shaded), and you won't have to worry about any coronavirus transmissions even if the ferries are carrying a lot of passengers. David says the slow ferries are rarely crowded because most tourists prefer to take the fast cat services. And after all, we are looking for slow travel options!
When Manila does eventually reopen, another option for budget to mid-range travellers is to take a road trip north to Aurora province which recorded no Covid-19 infections. If you are used to driving on Philippine roads, you can hire a car at the airport, or you can hire a car with a driver, which is not that much more expensive than a self-drive car in the Philippines. David doesn't recommend the self-drive option unless you've had plenty of experience in driving in countries like the Philippines, Vietnam, China or India.
Aurora province is a comfortable day's drive northeast of Manila and is one of the Philippines hidden gems. David said it was the first place that came to mind when asked about slow travel options. "Aurora province is very uncrowded, well off the beaten track, picturesque and has some of the best beaches on the east coast, most of which are completely deserted," he said.
Long deserted beaches in Aurora province, Philippines. Image: © David Astley
"It also has rainforest walking trails, some lovely waterfalls where you can cool off in the heat of the day, and one of the best coastal drives in the Philippines from Baler up to the Casiguran Sound. The further north you go on that road, the fewer people you will see, but it's still a very safe part of the Philippines, and the locals are ultra-friendly.
"In the small provincial capital of Baler, excellent accommodation options are available ranging from Airbnbs to a 4-star resort, some good restaurants and coffee shops, but most of all a natural environment which is conducive to winding down and relaxing. Although Baler is regarded as the surfing capital of the Philippines, it's far enough away from any big cities to never get crowded".
One final tip from David: "If Aurora province appeals to you, and you are flying in from Singapore, Malaysia, South Korea or Japan, then check the availability of direct flights to Clark. That will put you two hours closer to Aurora province, and Clark airport is much less crowded than Manila."
Header image: © Alan Williams
