Singapore Stopover? Try Changi Village.
We arrive from London into Singapore Changi airport, sleep deprived, hungry and like so many others, just want to get off the plane – quickly! But it’s a slow process, especially through Immigration, trying not to be impatient as the queues move at a snail’s pace, then down to the baggage carousel, waiting, waiting and waiting. Hoping the bags have not been lost in transit like a previous expedition.
Finally, we exit into the general confusion of glittering shops, competing eateries, signs for buses, taxis and trains and the ever-reliable Information booth. We are looking for the bay where the shuttle bus to Changi Village will be waiting. As Singapore is often a transit point for many travellers in Asia, taking time out after a long flight can make a real difference, especially as we still have another overnight flight to Australia.
Situated at the eastern end of Singapore, close to Changi airport, Changi Village is located at the northern tip of Changi. It is the ideal place to include a stopover as while it is a 10 -15 minute shuttle bus or taxi ride from the airport, it is closer and less frenetic than heading into Singapore city. And for older travellers, after a long flight, it is a welcome respite of calmness and tranquility.
The history of Changi Village dates back to the late 1920s when the British army’s main base in Singapore was set up in Changi. To cater for the British servicemen and their families a small settlement offering shopping and recreation saw the emergence of Changi Village. Following World War 2, Changi village continued to support the British soldiers stationed in the area and by 1960 had become a vibrant multicultural community with many eateries and market stall holders making it a bargain hunter’s paradise. But in 1972 the British soldiers withdrew from Singapore. The departure of thousands of servicemen and their families who had relied on and supported the businesses of Changi Village left the Village struggling to survive.
Changi Village is a quiet respite from the bustle of the city and airport. Image: © Simon Poon
The Singapore government, in an attempt to breathe new life into Changi Village, implemented a number of plans in the hope that locals and tourists would be attracted to the area. Light industries were established in the Loyang Area, recreational areas were created, there was a plan to build a new housing estate in Changi and by 1975 a new Hawker Centre was opened followed by an extensive food centre with 74 stalls and 78 market stalls the following year.
The 1980s saw a resurgence of support for the Hawker Centre primarily from soldiers and air force personnel from the nearby base, airport workers, and workers from the Loyang Industrial Estate along with holiday makers from Changi Point. However, despite these new initiatives for Changi Village, clientele levels did not return to the levels experienced when the British were in town, leaving many shop keepers struggling again.
In a memoir titled ‘The Long and Winding Road’, Jerome Lim writes of the Changi Village he loved as a child saying that it “would always have a place in (his) heart.” Jerome’s memories are of time spent with his parents on “lazy Sunday afternoon strolls” through the village and late afternoon swims in the sea. He writes of small reminders of the “good old days” when the presence of the RAF and their families were the focal point of activities in the village noting that some of the shops that existed back then are still recognisable in some form today. Lim says that as Singapore expanded and got busier, Changi Village offered a sense of calmness and a laid-back attitude.
I can relate to Jerome Lin’s comments of the calmness of Changi Village as while time has marched on and the Village he knew is busier now, I feel the sense of calm and the laid back attitude is still present -- and that is precisely why we choose to stay in Changi Village in preference to the busyness of Singapore city.
Shops and food outlets at the centre of Changi Village. Image: © EQRoy
As I sit on a wooden seat on the banks of Changi Beach, the coconut palms along the foreshore are still on this tropical summer evening. I watch the little fishing boats and ferries putter slowly into the bay to moor for the evening while overhead the incoming jets swoop low over the village on their flight path to the airport. It feels like the only place to be after a long, sleepless, international flight. A walk along the promenade of Changi Beach is salvation for an exhausted body and brain!
The Village Hotel by Far East Hospitality at Changi is a familiar place for us. Settled within the heart of the Village means it’s only a short walk to the food market, beach, nature trails and the bus transit terminal. There is something reassuring about this older style hotel with its quiet, comfortable guest rooms built around a light-filled central atrium.
On the roof top, a refreshing pool offers views across the treetops to the bay. It is a respite on hot summer nights. Offering free shuttle buses to and from the airport is a valuable service for tired travellers and just as helpful is the hotel’s Village Passport available to download to assist travellers to enjoy their stay in Changi Village.
A short stroll along the street from the hotel is the 89.7 Supper Club. Although the name suggests otherwise, it is outdoor dining, much like a large food court, with yellow laminex tables, plastic chairs and attentive waiting staff. A good sign that it’s a popular eating place is the number of locals frequenting the club. There is an extensive menu of Western and Asian Food at very reasonable prices -- but we are not interested in Western food, we are looking for Asian noodles, rice dishes, dim sums, spring rolls and fresh coconuts.
Sunset over the harbour near the Changi Sailing Club. Image: © huntergol hp
Close by and near to Changi Beach is the well frequented Hawker Centre also with an array of food stalls offering a wide variety of dishes. For other choices, there are smaller restaurants in the vicinity, some facing onto the waterfront. Check out the Little Island Brewing Co., a craft microbrewery with a selection of in-house brewed beers. It’s casual, dine-in or dine al fresco and select from an extensive Western food menu that includes weekday lunch and dinner menus or weekend brunch menus.
If time permits, staying an extra couple of days in Changi Village offers the opportunity to further explore three worthwhile sites in the surrounding area.
Walk the Changi Point Coastal Walk
The Changi Point Coastal Walk, beginning at the ferry terminal, stretches for 2.2 kilometres and is split into six sections: the Creek Walk, Beach Walk, Sailing Point Walk (near the Changi Sailing Club), Cliff Walk, Kelong Walk and Sunset Walk. A map from the National Parks details specific flora and fauna to look for in each of the sections on this leisurely scenic route that follows the harbour. To miss the heat of the day, go early morning or late afternoon with water, a hat and good walking shoes. Allow an hour or more to do this peaceful, scenic walk.
Take a bumboat to Pulau Ubin
Pulau Ubin is a small island a 15 mins bumboat ride from Changi Ferry Terminal. Bumboats run throughout daylight hours, although they will only leave when they have 12 people, so timing can be irregular. A ticket, purchased from the driver, will cost $3.00. Admission to the island is free but make sure you have enough cash for your daily adventure as there are no ATMs on the island.
While there is no accommodation on the island there are two camping sites for those who want to sleep under the stars, but there are very limited facilities and you will need to take your own water.
For those who are gardeners, a 1.5 kilometre walking trail allows you to follow the Sensory Trail to see, touch, taste and smell some of the vegetable, local spices, herbs and medicinal plants along the way. Initially designed for the visually impaired, the Sensory Trail allows all visitors to take part in the experience. In the vicinity of the Sensory Trail you can also check out Butterfly Hill, home to 140 species of butterflies.
Day trippers take a leisurely tour of Pulau Ubin on bicycles. Image: © cherry-hai
If cycling is your thing, bicycles can be rented on the island. Cycling the island offers you a chance to get up close and personal with the history, the beautiful scenery, the wildlife, and the charms of this small island. Some care is needed with the road surfaces and potholes – and watch out for the wildlife; you will likely meet monkeys on your journey. The Chek Jawa Wetlands ecosystem is a fascinating area that includes the Mangrove Walk and the Coastal Boardwalk. Although guided tours have currently been suspended due to Covid-19, it is worth checking the Singapore National Parks website as to when they might resume.
Visit the Changi Chapel and Museum
From the Village Hotel it is a short taxi ride to the Changi Chapel and Museum although both are currently undergoing redevelopment and will reopen in late 2020. It is a sombre experience to learn of the history of the people of Singapore, and those who fought for their freedom during the Japanese occupation of Singapore during World War 2.
The Changi Chapel commemorates those who died in World War 2. Image: © Sam DCruz
The Museum contains the stories of those who were POWs, locals and veterans, including details on the notorious Changi Prison. It is as disturbing as it is inspiring to see how the Singaporeans managed to survive such brutality through their own ingenious methods for survival. Housed at the back of the Museum is the Chapel dedicated to all those who were imprisoned in Changi from 1942-1945. It offers a space for contemplation on the brutalities of war for all those who lost their lives. Many cards, prayers and notes left by previous visitors on the Chapel notice board reflect on the sadness and impact of man’s inhumanity to man.
From outside the museum you can catch a bus into Singapore Central if you decided to venture further. It is a pleasant trip on the double-decker bus and just as easy to catch the return bus back to the Changi Village bus transit station and from there it is an easy walk back to the Village Hotel, where the shuttle bus will return you to the airport.
Header image: © People Image Studio
