Penang Island off the northwestern coast of Malaysia is a popular destination for tourists. Colonial architecture, shophouses, clan temples, street art and food stalls provide one of Southeast Asia’s most rewarding urban experiences. Yet this island changes character once the road crosses the central hills. On the western side in Balik Palau, a once-global spice survives in orchards, roadside stalls and everyday local food. This is where travellers can discover nutmeg, and a quieter part of Penang’s identity.
