Georgia: The Hot New Winter Destination

The face of travelling has irreversibly changed in the last two years, with many travellers asking “Where am I allowed to enter?” instead of “Where do I want to go?”. Unexpected destinations have subsequently popped up on our radars, offering us new and exciting experiences we never thought possible. With most Asian winter destinations still closed, those wishing for a white winter had to rethink their plans. Enter, Georgia.

Winter in the Caucuses is the new talk of the town and Georgia’s charming mountain villages and ski resorts are all the rage. The arrival of yuletide is announced by vibrant Christmas markets, miles of lights wrapped around trees and spanning across the streets, and the smell of mulled wine hanging thick in the air.

*A rural house at Poka near the frozen Paravani Lake. Image:* © Louise Pieterse

The mountains and valleys get covered in a blanket of snow and transform into a winter wonderland beyond your wildest dreams. For all intents and purposes, it is the ultimate winter getaway, on the crossroads of Asia and Europe, minus the crowds and highly inflated prices.

For those into skiing, the season in Georgia lasts until April, so even if you’ve missed the Christmas and New Year celebrations, there’s still plenty of time to organise a winter holiday in Georgia. Here are some of the must-visit destinations in Georgia for the ultimate winter break:

Gudauri

The town of Gudauri is the most popular ski destination in Georgia, carrying the largest load of tourists. The town can easily be mistaken for any alpine destination in Switzerland or Germany with ski-in hotels clinging to the slopes.

There are 64km of ski runs around Gudauri, and skiing and snowboarding lessons are readily available. Here a lesson averages around $25 as opposed to around $60 per hour in the French Alps. Advanced skiers can also go heli-skiing, but this is best left to the professionals. There are 15 lifts and gondolas servicing the slopes in Gudauri and there are runs for every skill level.

Kazbegi

If you don’t fancy yourself much of a skier, Kazbegi will be your main point of interest. The town is around 30km north of Gudauri but the road to Kazbegi is half of the magic. Georgia’s military highway that leads to Russia runs along magnificent valleys and into the upper Caucus mountains.

Along the way, you will pass Pasanauri, Gudauri, and Sno, all worth a stop to soak in their scenery. Once in Kazbegi, you can cozy into your hotel that will undoubtedly have views of the dramatic mountains, and sip on a glass of Glintwein (Georgia’s answer to Gluhwein).

Borjomi and Bakuriani

These two neighboring towns sit on the foothills of the Lower Caucus mountains in the Trialeti Range. Bakuriani is Georgia’s second most popular ski destination with just under 30km of slopes and 20 ski lifts.

*A winter view over the Bakuriani Valley. Image:* © Ekaterina Kuchina

The landscape looks vastly different than in Gudauri with plenty of alpine vegetation colouring in the mountainside. It is also less crowded than Gudauri and you can expect to pay less at lodges here.

Borjomi is one of the places in Georgia where you can enjoy natural sulphur baths. A steamy bath in the middle of winter is just what the doctor ordered for rest and relaxation.

Bakhmaro

Georgia has several villages high in the mountains, only accessible with all-terrain vehicles under special circumstances. Bakhmaro is one such village that can only be reached by Cat-ski in the winter. A snowcat transports visitors to this remote location in the west of the country.

It has the freshest air this side of the arctic and serves up some of the most spectacular sunset displays you will ever lay eyes on. After a good night of snowfall, you can be faced with walls of snow up to 5m tall enveloping the cottages.

Javakheti

This distinct area in the south of the country borders Armenia, and many folks in this part are of Armenian descent. The main attraction here is Paravani Lake, an expansive body of water that completely freezes over with the first hints of winter and creates a tundra-esque picture.

On the lake, you can see traditional ice fishermen using a hand saw to cut holes in the thick frozen slab to try and catch their dinner. The charming villages surrounding the lake are unexpectedly colourful with a few bright green and blue houses dotted throughout, reflected in the icicles hanging from their ornate wooden roofs.

Sabaduri Forest

One of the best parts of the capital Tbilisi’s location is its proximity to so many different landscapes. Sbaduri Forest is part of Tbilisi National Park and is only 25km northwest of the city. As soon as you reach city limits you notice a light dusting on the ground that grows more consistent as you wind your way along the forest road.

The road to Sabaduri Forest in winter. Image: © Louise Pieterse

In the blink of an eye, you will find yourself in the middle of an ice forest straight from a fairytale. Tree branches hang low under the weight of the snow and the ground is covered with a crisp white blanket. The backdrop of the piercing blue skies is nothing short of breathtaking.

Here you can pull over and wander into the forest for a short walk in the snow. It is very accessible and perfect for those who can’t stand the cold for too long. The view from your car is just as magnificent as from amongst the trees.

Tbilisi

Most destinations in Georgia are easily managed as a day trip from the capital or maybe a weekend getaway. Tbilisi is the main attraction in many ways, but it is not the winter destination you are probably thinking of. The city only sees a handful of snow days during the season, with only a couple of centimetres of snow. Most days are wonderfully sunny with bright blue skies, a beautiful juxtaposition to the soviet grey concrete buildings in parts of the city.

At night is when the real magic happens. When the light switch is flipped on after sunset, Tbilisi is illuminated by miles of festive lights lining the most beautiful streets of the city. There are dozens of gigantic Christmas trees across the city and the main street, Rustaveli Avenue, features miniature displays of iconic landmarks like the Statue of Liberty and Brandenburg Gate.

*Colourful festive season lights in Tbilisi. Image:* © Anna Bogush

Each year the city’s Christmas Market also grows larger with many streets turning into walking streets to accommodate the bustling markets. Gingerbread, mulled wine, roasted chestnuts, and cheesy traditional bread is sold along with beautifully handcrafted gifts and souvenirs.

There are also concerts held every night, elevating the Christmas atmosphere even more. Everything from indie rock to traditional choral singers and folk dancers are on show on top of the joyful marching band and classical orchestra bringing Christmas joy to all.

Festive Season in Georgia

Georgians observe Christmas according to the Julian calendar on 7 January. This means while the rest of the world has returned to normal life after the new year, the festive season only kicks into high gear in Georgia two weeks after most of the rest of the world.

*Spectacular New Year fireworks in Tbilisi. Image:* © Ruslan Harutyunov

Forget about the multi-million-dollar firework shows of Sydney, Hong Kong, or London, Tbilisi knows how to set the sky on fire on New Year’s Eve. With fireworks being fired from balconies and street corners, the whole city is illuminated at the stroke of midnight, and this continues well into the morning hours. Other cities like Kutaisi and Batumi also put on magical displays but none beat the sheer size of Tbilisi’s celebration.

Another beautiful tradition from the Orthodox community is the Georgian Christmas tree. Chichilakis are made from shaved cherry branches and resemble the beard of St. Basil the Great, the Georgian version of Santa Claus. These trees are decorated with fruits and berries but are burned on the night before Georgian Epiphany (19 January). The burning of these symbolic trees is said to do away with troubles from the previous year.

*Chichilaki trees on sale in a Tbilisi market. Image:* © Victoria Tori Dim

Georgian food is perfect for the colder months, consisting of rich soups and stews, cheesy bread, and buckets full of scrumptious dumplings. Pour a heavy-handed glass of traditional Georgian red and relax next to a crackling fireplace to beat the cold.

Winter Temperatures in Georgia

Georgia lies in a valley between two mountain ranges, so temperatures differ like day and night. Tbilisi has moderately cold winters with temperatures between freezing and 5 degrees Celsius in the daytime. At night, the mercury rarely drops past -3 degrees, and with the lack of moisture in the air, snow is not a regular occurrence.

The mountain regions towards Russia and the upper Caucuses have the most snow and it averages around -5 to -15 degrees in Gudauri, Mestia, and Racha once the snow starts to fall.

*Winter view of picturesque Signagi. Image:* © Yulia Grigoryeva

The east of the country is drier, and days are sunny and pleasant. In the Kakheti region, which includes the picturesque tourist town of Signagi, you can still enjoy splendid views of the majestic snow-capped mountains but enjoy mild temperatures up to 10 degrees during the day.

As Tbilisi itself rarely gets snowed in, access to the capital by road or air during winter months is not usually a problem. Flight cancellations are infrequent and Georgia doesn’t suffer as many transport disruptions as some other Asian winter destinations.