Georgia Travel Guide

At the interception of Europe and Asia, nestled in the fertile valley between the Caucus mountains, is Georgia. With its routes firmly cemented in classical antiquity, the country has been the subject of countless wars, sieges, occupations, and invasions. It was most recently part of the Soviet Union but gained independence in 1995 and has since blossomed into a tourism hotspot and one of the most popular destinations in the region.

Older travellers might have reservations about visiting this relatively new democracy considering there are still occupied regions, but the country is amongst the safest in the world and foreigners are welcomed with open arms. The notorious Georgian hospitality is no exaggeration and you shouldn’t be surprised if you find yourself dining or drinking with a local family or accepting produce or homemade wine from their pantry.

The country is relatively small and its manageable size means you can cover most of the land during your visit. Whether you prefer planes, trains, or automobiles, there is no corner you can’t reach within a few hours. The landscape is vast and changes from desert-like plains in the south to dramatic snow-capped mountains in the north.

Tbilisi

The capital city of Georgia is the arrival point for most visitors and the best place to get acquainted with the country. The city is highly walkable and incredibly scenic from almost every angle. Tree-lined streets with a variety of art deco and soviet architecture beg to be explored. Unlike other major cities where you rush from one major attraction to the next, Tbilisi’s magic lies in the hidden treasures between all the polished facades. Urban art, friendly neighbourhood cats, decorative doorways, and sidewalk antique shops all add to the nuances of this vibrant city.

In Tbilisi, you can eat your bodyweight in Khinkali, the pride, and joy of the local culinary scene. These basic dumplings are filled with meat, cheese, potato, or mushroom and are consumed by the bucketful while friends gather at their favourite local eatery. The atmosphere is always jovial at Georgian restaurants and the air is thick with the aroma of baked bread and melting cheese.

There are endless amounts of day trips from the capital and equally enticing walking tours in the city exploring ancient sites and hidden treasures. You can also relax at the city’s iconic sulphur baths where the healing water accompanied by a firm scrub from a bathhouse employee will leave you feeling rejuvenated.

Batumi

The second-largest city in Georgia is situated to the west of the capital, on the Black Sea. The city harmoniously blends modern high-rises and art nouveau architecture. The city’s skyline is dominated by quirky and often otherworldly buildings that light up the night sky like the 4th of July.

On ground level though, one falls in love with the romantic ambience of small alleys and antique elements scattered throughout the city. Keep an eye out for signs around the Old Town showing pictures of Batumi from the early 1900s. They give you a clear idea of how far the country has come but also the lengths they have gone to preserve their colourful history.

*An evening view of the romantic city of Batumi. Image:* © Grisha Bruev

In the summer, the city is a hive of activity with tourists flocking from all across Europe and Russia to enjoy the calm waters of the Black Sea. An unmissable icon at the edge of the sea is the colossal ‘Ali & Nino Statue’ -- a kinetic installation that boggles your mind as the two statues melt into one on a rotating basis.

The subtropical climate of Batumi is the perfect habitat for rich vegetation and the Batumi Botanical Gardens showcases this diversity in the most fantastic way. A cable car ride up to Ananuri mountain is the perfect way to take in the breath-taking landscape of Batumi and soak in a sunset while you are up there.

Stepantsminda

This is one of the most visited mountainous cities in Georgia. It is around three hours north of Tbilisi, close to the Russian border. To get there you pass the unmissable Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument, a large mosaicked concrete structure overlooking the Devil’s Valley.

Soon after you will reach the ski village of Gudauri, one of the cheapest ski destinations in the world. Stepantsminda, formerly known as Kazbegi, is the last stop on the military highway towards Russia and is best known for the majestic mountains surrounding the village.

*Beautiful views of the Greater Caucus Mountains. Image:* © Louise Pieterse

The most notable peak is Mount Kazbek, a snow-capped peak inching past the 5,000m mark. In the foreground of the mountain, a lush green hill is topped by Gergeti Trinity Church. The church is a famous pilgrimage site for Georgian Orthodox believers and was built in the 14th century. It is by no means the biggest or oldest church in the country, but the majestic setting is one of the most breath-taking.

Mtskheta

The ancient capital of Georgia is only around 30 minutes from Tbilisi but it is worlds apart in many ways. The city dates back to the 3rd century BC and is still the headquarters of the Georgian Orthodox and Apostolic Church today. You will quickly learn to appreciate that almost every point of interest in Georgia has ties to a church or has significant religious importance. Mtskheta is home to two prominent churches, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monestri.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral is the second largest in the country but arguably the holiest of all. It is said that the robe of Jesus is buried under the church after being purchased from a guard on Golgotha. The original church dates back to the 4th century AD but the current building is more than 1000 years old. Jvari Monastery on the hilltop next to the town dates from the 6th century and is one of only a handful of medieval churches in Georgia that has remained largely unchanged through time. The view of the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers is unbeatable. One flows in with a distinct blue tinge and the other a milky brown, meeting in the middle to flow south into Tbilisi.

Kakheti

Georgia is the oldest wine-producing region in the world, and they won’t let you forget it. Every other household produces its own wine and will happily share their provisions. Kakheti is the main wine-producing region and no trip to Georgia would be complete without sipping your way through a few farms.

*An outdoor wine tasing during a festival in Georgia. Image:* © Radiokafka

Georgian wine is unique as it is mostly made in Qvevri, a large clay vessel buried underground, adding mineralogy to the wine that can’t be achieved by classic wood-aged wines. So unique in fact, that it has been UNESCO-listed for its cultural value.

There are more than 400 grape varietals thanks to the abundance of microclimates in the region. Take guided tours to family-owned wineries for an authentically Georgian experience. If you visit during harvest season in September you can take part in Rtveli, the grape harvest. You pick and stomp the grapes, learn about traditional wine-making practices and enjoy a traditional ‘supra’, an elaborate feast of Georgian food.

Best Months to Visit Georgia

Georgia offers magical experiences year-round but summer and winter both have notoriously harsher climates.

In summer, from June to August, Tbilisi becomes hot and dry and many residents flee to the coast to enjoy the beach. Mountainous areas also offer relief from the heat and in the early summer, there are still a few snow caps peeping out behind the rolling green slopes.

*A spectacular spring display of wildflowers near Gori. Image:* © Louise Pieterse

April and May are the most temperate months and spring brings with it the arrival of wildflowers. Around Gori and central Georgia, you will be fortunate enough to see bursts of red, purple, and yellow as wildflowers bloom amongst wheat fields.

Autumn in October and November is another feast for the eyes as the forests of Racha and Borjomi transform into yellow and orange wonderlands. The remote roads in the Georgian forests wind through vibrant conifer groves, offering incomparable scenes of beauty.

Many travellers are wary of Georgia in the winter as temperatures dip below zero and conditions become unpredictable. But if you can stand the cold you will be rewarded with stunning winter landscapes and the most affordable skiing opportunities the world over.

Currency and Exchange Rates

Lari is the currency in Georgia and is abbreviated as GEL. The smaller denomination is Tetri, with 100 Tetri in 1 Lari. The currency exchange hovers around 3GEL to the USD and Georgia is considered to be very affordable.

Thanks to contactless transactions becoming the norm, the need for cash is dwindling in Georgia. Cash is still preferred at local markets and in small towns but there is an ATM on every other corner and even informal establishments have card terminals. Splitting the bill at restaurants is however a constant struggle and cash does come in handy in that regard.