Southeast Asia’s Historic Hotels: Following the Literary Trail
Building your holiday around a particular theme can add a deeper level of enjoyment and a richer experience to your trip. Southeast Asia has many colonial hotels that have rich and varied histories and none more so than for those travellers who love literature and reminiscences of bygone eras. There are some charming colonial hotels that once hosted well known literary figures, stars of stage and screen, and were instrumental in the lives of foreign correspondents during their time covering wars in Southeast Asia.
While some of these hotels may be outside your holiday budget, there are plenty of other ways you can explore and enjoy these beautiful establishments and experience a touch of glamour like the literary figures of long ago. Lunches, afternoon teas, and evening cocktails are all offered by the following historic hotels, and they graciously welcome all travellers:
Bangkok
The stylish Mandarin Oriental Hotel, set on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, has played host to many famous writers through the decades. British writers in particular were drawn to the Oriental as it was known in its early years. Somerset Maugham arrived in Bangkok in 1923 and reportedly suffered a bout of malaria while staying at the hotel. He documented his travels of Thailand in ‘The Gentlemen and the Parlour’ while also writing a Siamese Fairy Tale for younger readers. John Le Carre finished his manuscript for ‘The Honorable Schoolboy’ while staying at the hotel.
The Author’s Lounge in the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. Image: © Thanan Kongdoung
Other guests include Noel Coward, Ian Fleming, Barbara Cartland who wrote ‘Sapphires in Siam’ and Graham Greene who has a suite named in his honour. But they were not alone. American writers such as James Michener, who wrote ‘The Voice of Asia’ published in 1951, Norman Mailer, and Paul Theroux all experienced the welcoming elegance of this hotel.
The Author’s Lounge situated on the ground floor in the old section of the hotel will delight those looking for literary connections. This beautiful light-filled space brings to life the fascination of a bygone era with its elegant surroundings that includes large white wicker chairs and potted palms, and where a selection of photographic memories of the many literary guests who spent time at the hotel adorn the walls.
It is the ideal place to spend a relaxing afternoon contemplating your own novel while sampling one of a selection of splendid afternoon teas which include the traditional Western Afternoon Tea Set or the Oriental Afternoon Tea Set. For those with specific dietary requirements, the Vegan and Gluten Free Tea Set is an option. An extensive variety of teas are available to accompany the delicacies.
Georgetown, Penang
The Eastern and Oriental Hotel in Georgetown on Penang Island in Malaysia has been a favourite of many literati especially in the early twentieth century. The Sarkies brothers, who were Armenian refugees, established the successful Eastern Hotel in 1884, and in 1885 the Oriental was built facing the sea on adjoining land. Known as the E & O, this majestic structure became the principal hotel in Penang and the hub of the island’s social life. Not surprisingly, along with musicians and cabaret acts, those from the silver screen to the written word including Rudyard Kipling, Somerset Maugham, Noel Coward, Douglas Fairbanks, Mary Pickford, Charlie Chaplin and Herman Hesse were captured by the allure of the Far East and drawn to this glamorous hotel.
Entrance to the Eastern and Oriental Hotel in Georgetown. Image: © Chris Jenner
To be immersed in the surroundings try the English Afternoon Tea, which began in 1885 and continues a long-standing tradition to this day. Set in the chic Palm Court, experience the stylish setting with its central gold candelabra, overhead fans, white linen tablecloths and classic leather-bound chairs as you sip your tea and enjoy the delicacies. Or you may prefer Farquhar’s Bar. Described by the hotel as a vintage cocktail bar, it opens from 5pm until midnight and is situated on the ground floor of the Heritage Wing. Settle back at the long bar with a refreshing cocktail and enjoy the ambience of this beautiful space with its deep smoky blue walls and luxury décor of plush leather sofas and elegant linen chairs as you soak up the views of the waterfront.
Singapore
The Sarkies brothers continued their foray into elegant hotels with the purchase of the old Emerson Hotel in Singapore in 1887. After extensive renovations, the hotel became the Raffles Hotel, named as a mark of respect to Singapore’s founder Sir Stamford Raffles. It wasn’t long before this majestic hotel welcomed an influx of wealthy patrons who saw Raffles as the place to be with its distinctive hospitality, luxury services and high-end accommodation. The Raffles historical guest list reads like a who’s who of film and literature with noteworthy clientele including Somerset Maugham, Rudyard Kipling, Noel Coward, Ernest Hemingway, Charlie Chaplin, Maurice Chevalier, Jean Harlow, Ava Gardner, and Elizabeth Taylor.
There are plenty of opportunities to capture the essence of this newly renovated glamorous hotel. Wander through the stylish walkways to observe the distinctive colonial architecture with its elegant archways, expansive columns, and manicured lawns. Afternoon tea is served daily accompanied by the melodic sounds of a harpist in the sumptuous Grand Lobby. Enjoy delicate teas, champagne, and seasonal delicacies as a memorable experience.
The iconic Long Bar inside the Raffles Hotel. Image: © Claudine Van Massenhove
Or try Raffles Courtyard for Happy Hour from 5pm to 8pm to enjoy an alfresco experience of sipping wines and cocktails with a cooling breeze under the palms. The traditional Singapore Sling, a refreshing gin-based cocktail that has long been a favourite with Raffles patrons is served in the historic newly restored Long Bar which opens mid-afternoon and closes at 10pm.
Opening at 4pm daily, is the legendary Writers Bar in the lobby. It’s the place to be for all those up-and-coming writers who harbor dreams of literary success. Check out the new cocktail menu and raise a toast to the memory of Ernest Hemingway, who loved cocktails, and all the celebrated authors who frequented the Writers Bar and made their home at Raffles, if only for a short time.
As you leave take a detour to the gift shop to find a treasure that will be a reminder of your time spent at this landmark Singapore hotel.
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)
The Caravelle Saigon, located in the heart of the city, is within walking distance of many of the key tourist attractions. Opened in 1959 on Christmas Eve, it was celebrated at the time as the leading hotel in Saigon with one of the tallest buildings that offered spectacular views of the city.
Throughout the years of the American War, as it is known in Vietnam, the hotel became a base for foreign correspondents including Walter Cronkite, Morley Safer, Peter Arnett and Neil Sheehan; just some of the many journalists who remitted their dispatches of the conflict from the Caravelle to the world media. Reports from that time emphasise the importance of the rooftop bar on the 10th storey of the hotel where journalists gathered to discuss and document the daily news while observing the nightly escalation of clashes on the outskirts of Saigon.
The refurbished 10-storey Caravelle Hotel with new wing behind. Image: © Ngoc Tran
Rising high over the city, the Caravelle hotel has been transformed through the years with ongoing extensive renovations to deliver a luxury five-star international hotel. There are several ways to experience this beautiful hotel. Try afternoon tea, served daily in the Café de l’Opera which begins at midday and finishes at 5pm. It offers a selection of Vietnamese High Tea, a Traditional High Tea or a Vegetarian Menu. Or take the elevator to the 10th floor and visit the Saigon Saigon Rooftop Bar, where foreign correspondents, politicians and soldiers gathered all those years ago. Listen to live music, take in the beauty of the night lights of Ho Chi Minh City while sampling some of the rooftop’s classic bar food. The hotel also offers a six-hour day use of a modern room including the use of the pool and gym if you are in transit.
Another of the Ho Chi Minh City hotels with a strong connection to the world of literature and the writings of foreign journalists is the Hotel Continental. Centrally located and within walking distance of many of the attractions of this city, this charming hotel invokes memories of French colonial times. Perhaps the best known of the literary figures who called the Continental Palace (as it was known then) home for a time, was Graham Greene, the British writer, who arrived in Vietnam as a war correspondent. During his time there, holed up in room 214, he worked on his novel ‘The Quiet American,’ a love triangle drama set in the final days of French colonial rule in 1950’s Saigon. The hotel features heavily in the book and the film.
The Continental was also a well-known meeting place for visiting war correspondents and photographers during the IndoChina War (1946-1954) and the American War (1964-1973). The second floor of the hotel became the base for the Saigon news agencies of Time and Newsweek magazines. H.D.S. Greenway, an American foreign correspondent, writing for the Washington Post during the American War, detailed his experience of being woken by a sound in the early hours of the morning while staying at the Continental Palace hotel, instinctively knowing that the fall of Saigon was imminent.
The Continental Hotel Saigon with modern buildings behind. Image: © Luu Chi Kiet
This charming hotel continues to welcome travellers from all over the world offering a sense of tranquility and calmness from the busyness of the city streets. History abounds as you stroll the corridors of this grand old hotel. You have a chance to explore the hotel’s gallery of photos that highlight memories of the past. La Dolce Vita Café, a sanctuary from the heat and hustle of the city is located on the ground floor. Offering coffee, cake and ice-cream, you can sit in cool comfort and watch the world pass by from the elegant arched picture windows.
Also located on the ground floor, overlooking the Opera House is Le Bourgeois Restaurant, Graham Greene’s “most favourite rendezvous” says the hotel. He was not alone; it was also a popular place for politicians, journalists and correspondents who stayed at the hotel in earlier times. Try a Vietnamese-style breakfast with a variety of noodles or enjoy western cuisine for lunch or dinner in this stylish dining room as you are serenaded by the classical sounds of the violin and piano.
Nearby, the elegant heritage Majestic Hotel was another popular venue frequented by Greene and features in his novel ‘The Quiet American’. It is here his main character, Thomas Fowler, goes to enjoy cocktails and the cooling breezes from the Saigon River on the Majestic’s Rooftop Bar.
The ornate entrance to the Majestic Hotel in Saigon. Image: © Kevin Hellon
The rooftop bar has since been upgraded. The Breeze Sky Bar in the Classic Wing on the 5th floor is the ideal place to take some time out to enjoy a meal while watching the sunset across the Saigon River. A newer addition on the 8th Floor is the M Bar, also located on the riverfront. Enjoy cocktails, coffee, and cooling breezes as you watch the night lights come on along the river while listening to live music.
If you prefer a quieter place, the Catinat Lounge with its polished floorboards and elegant gold and black décor is just the place to order coffee, read the daily newspapers and soak up the atmosphere of this grand heritage hotel that was high on Graham Greene’s list of his favourite places to visit in old Saigon.
Hanoi
The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel, situated in the old city of Hanoi, is a stylish, elegant hotel that also comes with a rich history and a guest list that includes the literary greats of their era, and in more recent times several world leaders.
In 1936, Charlie Chaplin celebrated his honeymoon with American actress, Paulette Goddard, at the hotel. Others to visit over the years were Noel Coward and Somerset Maugham who is reported to have written ‘The Gentleman’ in the parlour of the hotel, while Graham Greene stayed in 1951 as a reporter for the Paris Match and continued to work on his novel, ‘The Quiet American.’ To honour their memory, the hotel’s Heritage Wing includes the Charlie Chaplin Legendary suite, which comes with a range of privileges including a butler, the Graham Greene Suite, with its beautiful balconies overlooking Con Coc Park, and the Somerset Maugham Suite with its own private garden.
L'Orangerie in the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel garden. Image: © Leonard Zhukovsky
Other events which add to the history of this heritage hotel include the influential communist leader Ho Chi Minh’s clandestine meetings at the hotel during World War 2 in his battle with the Japanese, and later with the French in his fight for Independence during the first Indo-China War. Other visitors were Fidel Castro, President of Cuba, and Francois Mitterand, President of France.
Only recently discovered, having been concealed and hidden for over 50 years, is the hotel’s underground bunker to protect guests during the years of the American War. It is reported that Joan Baez, a contemporary folk musician and political activist, wrote her song ‘Where Are You Now My Son?’ while staying in the bunker during an air raid in 1972. Others who stayed at the hotel in more recent times included American presidents, George H.W. Bush, Bill Clinton, and Donald Trump.
Situated on top of the historic bomb shelter is the Bamboo Bar with its decorative overhead fans, large comfortable rattan chairs and classy Vietnamese décor. Enjoy a lazy afternoon poolside and sample some delights from their daily menu including light meals, juices, desserts, tea and coffee. However, if it’s cocktail time, don’t pass up a chance to try their specialty, the Graham Greene Martini. For something a little more indulgent try High Tea in Le Club Bar which overlooks the courtyard garden. There’s a beautiful one-of-a-kind colonial glasshouse in the garden that’s called L’Orangerie which is used for functions.
These colonial hotels with their long-standing traditions of elegance, glamour and hospitality continue to offer a warm welcome for locals and travellers alike.
Header image: © Derek Teo
