The Okinawa Islands: A Different Japan
Surrounded by pristine white sands and sparkling, diamond-encrusted turquoise seas, the southernmost Japanese prefecture of Okinawa is as far removed from the traditional Japanese culture as its distance from the mother country (over 500 kilometres south).
Although you won’t find any high-rises here, Okinawa is often referred to as the ‘Hawaii of Japan’. But it’s the slower island pace and sub-tropical climate, along with more to keep you occupied even away from the beaches, that make it the ideal holiday destination.
Forget the typical Japanese geishas, Shinto shrines and torii gates. While you can discover Okinawa’s history, it’s sparse compared to the vast white beaches, spectacular reef diving, lush jungles, waterfalls, hidden rivers and mangroves or traditional markets and duty-free department store shopping on offer.
Even the unique, delicious Asian influenced cuisines are different. So are the stunning sunsets and star-studded evening skies. You can see 84 constellations from Iriomote-Ishigaki National Park (an international Dark Sky Park) on Yaeyama Island.
The Okinawa islands are Japan’s sub-tropical paradise. Image: © mapman
Plus, from mid-January, you can beat the rest of the world and be amongst the first to see cherry blossoms. The explosion of darker pink blooms stretches from Nakijin Castle to Mt Yaedake (also known as Mt Yae), the tallest mountain on Okinawa Island at 453 metres.
Okinawa Prefecture is a collection of 160 islands over 2,280 square kilometres. Only 49 are inhabited in this sub-tropical paradise. Okinawa is also the name of the main and largest island. Here you’ll experience the distinctiveness of this multi-cultural melting pot, its different art, architecture, history, foods and music. But you’ll always find the quiet respectfulness that you expect from Japanese people.
Only a part of Japan since 1879, Okinawa has retained much of its Ryukyu Kingdom heritage. It’s been influenced by the many battles on its shores over the years, and nearby Chinese, Taiwanese, Korean, and other Asian neighbours, as well as the US after World War II. The US still has a significant presence, with several air bases here, including sharing the main Naha international airport.
The bloody Battle of Okinawa in 1945 resulted in over a third of the island’s population being killed as the US attacked the Japanese. To learn more, visit the Okinawa Peace Park in Itoman, 20 minutes south of Okinawa’s capital city, Naha. Located on Mabuni Hill, the final battle area, you’ll find several ‘peace’ zones, including the semi-circular Cornerstone of Peace and Flame of Peace, the Memorial Path, Memorial Museum and Memorial Hall. Plus, the National War Dead Peace Mausoleum nearby.
Engraved names of war dead at the Okinawa Peace Park. Image: © Sean Pavone
While down here, check out the infamous Japanese underground Naval Headquarters where mass troop suicides occurred rather than being captured. It’s a real eye-opener and a must for war history buffs.
The 600-year-old UNESCO world heritage listed Shuri Castle is evidence of Okinawa’s multi-culturalism. For centuries it was an administrative centre and Ryukyu kings’ residence. It’s a combination of Chinese, Japanese and Okinawan architecture.
Almost entirely destroyed during the US/Japanese Battle of Okinawa, the fortress was painstakingly restored by using historical records and photographs. In 2019 a pre-dawn fire ravaged six of the castle’s main buildings. The red central hall, that looked like it had been transplanted from Beijing’s Forbidden City, was tragically reduced to cinders. The left hall which was classically Okinawan with a clay tiled roof, and the right hall which was a more traditional Japanese style, were also destroyed.
In 2020 the Japanese government announced that it would rebuild Shuri Castle – a massive task that will take six years. When that task is completed, the castle will be well worth visiting again because the views from there back to Naha are worth the short Yui Rail trip alone.
The central hall of Okinawa’s beautiful Shuri Castle before the fire. Image: © Sean Pavone
While here, try some traditional Okinawan fare at Ashibiuna while sitting at low tables in the 15th-century wooden building. Or try the handmade chewy soba noodles at Shuri Soba near the rail station before heading back to Naha.
If you need some exercise, walk the remaining 250 inclined metres of the 500-year-old Kinjo Stone Road near Shuri Castle. Made from Ryukyu limestone, most of this walled road was destroyed during World War II. Named one of the best 100 roads in Japan, enjoy the stunning views from the red-roofed rest house along the way.
Karate also originated in Okinawa, not Japan. While it’s since spread worldwide, people here were practicing this sport well before the Japanese took over.
Business signs often feature helpful cartoon characters. Image: © Nannette Holliday
Away from major hotels and tourist areas, English is rarely spoken. Even though the people may know it, they are shy to talk. But don’t worry, while Japanese is the principal language (along with three Ryukyuan dialects), it’s still relatively easy to get around. Gestures and sign language work well and often bring many laughs.
Despite the sizeable Chinese population, there’s no Chinatown in Okinawa. Today, Chinese lifestyle and customs have almost blended with everyone celebrating both the western and Chinese new years.
Over the last decade, more Japanese, particularly from the larger mainland cities, have moved to Okinawa for its relaxed and stress-free lifestyle. It’s claimed that Okinawans eat healthier — the reason you’ll find more centenarians amongst its 1.45 million population than any other country in the world. Many say it’s a combination of the warmer weather, slower lifestyle, friendliness of the people and eating habits that contribute to their longevity.
Fresh reef fish are a healthy component of the Okinawan diet. Image: © Nannette Holliday
Okinawan’s eat loads of fresh and lightly simmered fish and seafood, rather than sushi. You’ll also find wheat-based soba noodles, not buckwheat ones along with rice, multi-coloured vegetables (like purple sweet potato), shima tofu (where water is squeezed out first, not last), yams, bitter melon (goya), shikuwasa (a citrus fruit) and dishes made from pigs on menus.
High in calcium and low in fat, pig ears (mimiga) top the list. Or enjoy stewed pig trotters (tonsoku), juicy rafute (pork belly) and yagi sashimi (raw goat). Mozuku and umibudo (sea grape) seaweeds are also considered highly beneficial health-wise. But the real secret I’ve been told is Okinawans only eat until they are “hara hachi bu” or 80 per cent full. So now we all know!
Makishi Public Market was opened initially as a black market after the war. Step out of your comfort zone and partake in some of the weird and wonderful delights as you stroll around. Purchase from the array of colourful, fresh seafood, fruit and vegetables and take them to the second floor where restaurants cook it for you. Or grab an already prepared Okinawan comfort food from here to warm your soul.
Shoppers stroll through Okinawa’s Makisha Public Market. Image: © Nannette Holliday
Another difference is Okinawa’s traditional alcoholic drink. It’s awamori, not sake (which is brewed from short-grain rice). Aged in oak barrels, Awamori is a potent (30 to 40 percent), light and fruity clear liquid distilled from long-grain rice imported from Thailand. A method taught by the Siamese when trading with the Ryukyu over 500-years ago. Enjoy a taste of awamori after learning how it’s made after a tour at any of the three distilleries on Okinawa Island. I enjoyed awamori and found it on a par with Korean soju — chilled and in small doses!
Ok, everyone knows I don’t drink beer. But I’ve been assured by those in the know that Helios Pub, Naha, pours the best craft beers around. From pale British ales to manly strength German lager and the local Okinawan signature bitter Goya Dry, made from goya mash. To learn more and enjoy a tasting, book a distillery tour at the factory in northern Kyoda, Nago City.
Many izakayas and pubs have live Okinawan folk music. Instead of karaoke, the musicians are known for dragging unsuspecting tourists on stage to sing along with them. So, don’t say I didn’t warn you. The comforting island tones of their traditional sanshins (a three-stringed, banjo-like snakeskin covered instruments) will lull you into a state of repose.
Eisa dancers provide a spectacular street performance. Image: © Nannette Holliday
Shopaholics can get their fix in Naha along the 1.6 km long Kokusai-Dori Street. It has everything from traditional colourful crafts to every touristy or souvenir shop around. There’s also plenty of izakayas and restaurants to keep you nourished and hydrated along the way. The street becomes a pedestrian mall on Sundays, with Eisa dancers performing their elaborate shows.
Duty-free shoppers can also rejoice at downtown T Galleria with over 130 brands and collections to choose from.
At the end of Heiwadori Arcade, Kokusai Street's north end, discover the ancient Tsuboya pottery district. At the Tsuboya Pottery Museum, learn about the famous Tsuboya-yaki Okinawan pottery (over 6,600 years old) and how the craft is still being passed down through the generations today. See the various locally made products and how they’re produced (now with electric kilns) and purchase a unique souvenir to take home.
A peaceful retreat a short walk from Kokusai Street is Fukushu En Park. Constructed in 1992, this traditional Chinese walled park celebrates the 10th anniversary of the sister city relationship between Fukushu, China, and Naha. It features an artificial hill, pond, waterfall and genuine Chinese stone carvings, wooden art and architecture.
Local pottery and glassware make beautiful souvenirs. Image: © Nannette Holliday
If you want to see more of Okinawa, it’s best to rent a car with a GPS as buses are scarce and taxis are expensive. Regular ferries also connect the main Okinawa, Ishigaki and Miyakojima Islands, and roads are left-hand drive.
I’m not a theme park lover, but many still enjoy Okinawa World, southwest of Naha. Visit Habu Park and Kingdom Village to learn more about Ryukyu culture, lifestyle, craftsmanship and traditions. See glass blowing, pottery, fabric weaving and dyeing displays. You can even try your hand at some. And don’t miss the Habu snake museum and show before they are made into a snake liquor, available for purchase outside.
A must visit is nearby Gyokusendo Caves. Over 300,000 years old, there are over five kilometres of spectacular stalagmites and stalactites to view from a metal walkway.
Towering over Cape Zanpa, 30 minutes north of Naha, is the 30 metre white Zanpa lighthouse. The Insta 360 degree views, finest sand beaches and azure waters are hard to resist. Swimming and snorkelling here are safe with lifeguards on duty and jellyfish nets in place.
The walkway through the Gyokusenko Caves near Naha. Image: © Phatranist Kerddaeng
At Cape Maeda, 15 minutes’ drive further north, you’ll find huge rocks and raised coral reefs amongst the calmest of ocean waters. Locals say this is a healing place. Snorkelers and scuba divers flock here for the variety of colourful fish and the Blue Cave below the cliff. Kayaks can also access the caves.
On the way to the Cape, you’ll pass through Futenma, Ginowan City, home to the US Marine Air Corps. Get your US fix here with everything from tacos and hamburgers to all kinds of American shops.
I know I said you wouldn’t see any Japanese Shinto shrines. However, there is one at Ginowan worth a visit. Surviving the World War II battles, the tranquil 500-year-old Futenma Shrine is an excellent example of Japanese culture. The architecture is a beautiful blending of Okinawan and Japanese.
North of Nago on the Motobu Peninsula is the 13th-century Nakijin Castle. King Hokuzamam ruled from this Ryukyu fortress. The oldest Nozura-zumi construction known, with stunning views across the East China Sea, in 2000, it became a World Heritage site. Also, visit the village and museum containing Chinese coins, documents and earthenware.
Okinawa’s Churaumi Aquarium is one of the world’s largest. Image: Jordy Meow
The pristine waters surrounding Okinawa are a year-round scuba divers’ dream. The surrounding coral reefs are teeming with colour and spectacular sea creatures. But if you don’t dive or snorkel, don’t miss seeing Okinawa’s exotic sea life at Churaumi Aquarium and Ocean Expo Park in Nago. It’s one of the largest in the world, covering 20,000 square metres.
If you snorkel or dive, many head to Ishigaki for its magnificent underwater caves, colourful coral reefs, giant manta rays, hammerhead and whale sharks. The star-shaped sand on Ishigaki Island is also unique.
Off the shores of Miyakojima Island, you’ll find a maze of jagged rocks and limestone caves. While Yonaguni is home to solid rock underwater ruins that look like rooms and stairways. Over 8,000 years old, it is believed they are the Mu lost continent.
People also get hooked on offshore fishing around the islands. Reel in marlin to tuna and exotic tropical reef varieties.
Okinawa’s winter months see many whales passing through. Image: Joshua Sukoff
Whale watching is superb from January to March. See humpbacks migrating from Alaska to Japan.
But if you want to see Okinawa’s rural side, immerse yourself in the tranquil tropical jungles covering Iriomote Island on a hiking tour. Also, see brilliant birds, waterfalls and native wildlife.
So, while you’ll find something for just about everyone to do on Okinawa, just don’t expect it to be a typical Japanese style holiday. Okinawans proudly maintain their origins and always will — while happily sharing them and their vast natural wonders with you..
Header image: © norinori33
