Finding Your Zen in Nikko
When you say you’re holidaying, everyone expects it to be a significant place. But major cities or popular holiday destinations aren’t everyone’s cup of tea. And while I do visit major locations, I’m more attuned to finding those quiet, off-the-beaten-track and local-lifestyle encompassing places.
So, if you are looking for peacefulness, somewhere where you can slow down, smell life, rest and rejuvenate, particularly after the hustle and bustle of Japan’s big cities, then a few days at Nikko in Tochigi Prefecture is the answer to your dreams.
Two hours by Tobu Railway train or a 150-kilometre drive north of Tokyo, you’ll find this tranquil and non-touristy location. In and around Nikko, you can unwind, meditate, relax in hot springs and enjoy the authentic delights of Japanese culture away from the crowds.
The beautiful scenery of the Nikko region in Tochigi Prefecture. Image: © Nannette Holliday
However, if time doesn’t allow, a day trip will still touch the senses and whet your appetite for more another time.
Nikko’s claim to fame is its abundance of nature, multiple natural hot springs and culturally significant Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples.
Nestled at the entrance to Nikko National Park, it is surrounded by Taro, Nantai and Nyoho mountains (or Nikko Sanzan). This small unpretentious town with a population of only 80,000 evokes spirituality, tranquillity, and calmness. It's a place to find your Zen and experience olden-day Japanese life. It’s no wonder the town’s slogan is “Nikko is Nippon”.
Mount Nantai overlooks the picturesque Lake Chuzenji. Image: © Nannette Holliday
Legend has it that Nikko was founded in the 8th century by Buddhist priest Shodo Shonin, who scaled the mountains teaching his faith. However, the region had long been a spiritual place of worship, and his Buddhist teachings did not exclude ancient Shintoism. Today their shrines and Buddhist temples stand side-by-side, making it one of the most historic UNESCO World Heritage Listed areas.
But it is Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa, instrumental in Japan’s unification, whose family wealth and fortune are mainly seen today. His 17th century Edo era Toshogu Shrine holding his remains was initially modest, just as he had wished. It was Iemitsu Tokugawa, Ieyasu’s grandson, who later rebuilt today’s magnificent and lavish masterpiece that Nikko is now famous for.
The various buildings, shrines and five-storey pagoda (Toshogu Gojunoto) are renowned for their intricate, colourful lacquered and gold leaf wooden carvings. From peaceful birds and cats to the three wise monkeys (see, hear and speak no evil) over the Shinkyusha Sacred Stable, each symbolises sanctity which you can feel while walking around the site.
One of the colourful buildings inside the Toshugo Shrine. Image: © Nannette Holliday
Other attractions include the Futarasan Shrine to the surrounding holy mountains. Taiyuin, which houses the remains of Iemitsu Tokugawa, who renovated Toshogu, and Rinnoji Temple and its three Buddhist halls, directly behind Shodo’s statue and the first building after crossing the scarlet Shinkyo Bridge over Daiya River.
Shinkyo is also known as Sacred or Snake Bridge. Legend has it that when Shodo could not cross the river to complete his climb of Mount Nantai, he appealed to the gods who delivered him two snakes that stretched from bank to bank to form his bridge.
Nearby and opposite the Botanical Gardens is Tamozawa Imperial Villa, surrounded by three hectares of spectacular Japanese gardens. This Imperial Palace was constructed in 1899, then extended for the Taisho Emperor’s visit in 1918. During World War II, when the US were bombing Tokyo, it also became the Imperial family home.
A cruise boat on Lake Chuzenji to view the autumn foliage. Image: © Nannette Holliday
The 1,150 sq kms national park surrounding Nikko is considered one of Japan’s most beautiful, with something special on offer for visitors and locals all year round.
The Okunikko area is a variable seasonal calendar for nature lovers, hikers, campers and cyclists. From a leisurely stroll through the autumn painter’s palette, hillsides of golds through to deep burgundy, to winter snowshoeing or skiing across the crisp white slopes spliced between clear cobalt skies, frozen waterfalls and the azure lake waters. Spring blooms forth with splendour amongst masses of varying pink cherry blossoms, while azaleas take over during summer.
Its most iconic natural wonder is Lake Chuzenji. At 1,269 metres high, it is Japan’s highest lake. It formed 20,000 years ago when Mount Nantai erupted, and lava blocked the valley. Overflowing from the lake is the spectacular Kegon waterfall.
The Akechi-daira Ropeway against a stunning autumn backdrop. Image: © Nannette Holliday
Join a 55-minute Tobu Chuzenji sight-seeing cruise at Funenoeki to get an idea of the lake's vastness. If you purchase a private cabin (for up to eight people) on level two, they have a small deck — ideal for capturing that perfect shot.
The nearby lake observation deck allows for stunning visuals of the 97-metre cliff cascade of Kegon Waterfalls (or frozen in-time winter spectacle when you can also get the elevator down to view it from below). Access to the platform is via the lakeside hiking trails or a three-minute ride on the Akechi-daira Ropeway (a popular option, particularly in autumn for the visual advantage).
Board the Ropeway at a rest house parking lot on the Irohazaka Winding Road (named because of its 48 hairpin turns). Built in 1954 and 1965, the two roads were Japan’s first toll roads. Today, you can only travel down on the 1954 road and up on the 1965 one. Both are now toll-free.
The ‘down’ direction of the older Irohazaka Winding Road. Image: © Nannette Holliday
Don’t miss the Kanmangafuchi Abyss in a small gorge between Nikko and Lake Chuzenji. Approximately 70 Jizo Buddhist deity statues with red knitted bibs and hats line the walkway beside a tiny river, protecting travellers, women and children.
Another excellent path to lose your thoughts along is the 35-kilometre Cedar Avenue leading to Toshogu Shrine. Created 400 years ago by feudal lords, with about 13,000 cedar trees, it is the Guinness World Record holder for the world’s longest tree-lined avenue.
To really get your zen on, partake in Shinrin-yoko (forest bathing). This unique Japanese meditation experience uses nature to heal the soul. It awakens all your senses, just by being surrounded by nature.
The calm zen feeling of the Kanmangafuchi Abyss walkway. Image: © Nannette Holliday
One of the best places to undertake your forest healing is Senjogahara Marshlands, along one of its many walking trails. Around 1,400 metres above sea level, it’s ideal for listening to the wonders of nature around you. But don't forget to turn your phone off and let nature do the rest. The marshlands is also a great area to snowshoe across during winter.
For a short two-hour walk, take the boardwalk over the marshy plains, view the surrounding mountains, flora and fauna on your way to the striking Ryuzu-no-taki Falls and ending at Yumoto Onsen. Onsen means natural hot spring, and there’s plenty here to pamper yourself in and soak away any weary thoughts.
A zen feeling also surrounds the skiing on offer at Yumoto Onsen Ski Park. With four wide, gentle slopes available from late December to the end of March, the best months for snow is usually January and February. Also, enjoy the Yukiakari Snow Festival over two weeks in February when it becomes a winter wonderland. See the skilled hotel chef’s cut impressive ice sculptures and over 500 small igloos (Kamakura) that glow brightly at night around Yumoto Park.
The 35km long Cedar Avenue is lined with 13,000 cedar trees. Image: © Nannette Holliday
One of the oldest onsens in the region is Kinugawa Onsen. Discovered in the 18th century, the waters are soft, leaving your skin baby-smooth and rejuvenated. It also offers a variety of ryokan and hotel accommodation.
Settled by the Heike Clan warriors on the northern banks of Lake Chuzenji, Yunishigawa Onsen is a small hot spring town where you’ll also discover Heinke Ochudo Ryori. Still cooked over open fires, today, you can indulge your taste buds with this unique, local cuisine served at many restaurants in extravagant banquet-style courses. It includes a delicious assortment of local freshwater fish and natural seasonal ingredients.
You’ll find a plethora of accommodation in the region to suit all budgets, from hostels to Japanese ryokans and onsens.
A soak in warm onsen mineral waters is the ultimate zen experience. Image: © Thomas Morris
But if you want head-to-toe pampering, there are several five-star hotels and even luxury Japanese ryokans in the area to ensure your every whim is catered for.
At Hotel Shikisai in Chuzenjiko Onsen, get one with nature while still enjoying luxurious fine dining and private hot spring baths surrounded by lush forest and the sounds of nearby waterfalls.
Step back in time and stay where the most worldly important guests chose — Kanaya Hotel. Centrally located in Nikko and built in 1873, it is the town’s oldest hotel and also Japan’s oldest Western-style hotel. The star-studded guest line-up included Indira Gandhi, Helen Keller, Albert Einstein, Charles Lindbergh, Frank Lloyd Wright, the Duke of Windsor and Eleanor Roosevelt. They all enjoyed the large, spacious guest rooms and vast parkland views. Warm yourself by the wood fire in winter after a whiz around their ice-skating rink, and then settle in at Bar Dacite, where I dare you to try all 200 single malt whiskeys!
The historic Bar Dacite in the Kanaya Hotel. Image: © Nannette Holliday
Built initially to entice visitors after the 2020 Olympics (initially cancelled because of Covid-19 and eventually held in July 2021), the Ritz-Carlton with sweeping views of Lake Chuzenji and Mount Nanjai opened in July 2020. Its 94 opulent suites, luxurious spa facilities, gourmet restaurant, well-appointed bar and private onsens will ensure you’ll be completely rejuvenated by the time you leave.
The newest luxurious boutique property, FUFU Nikko hot spring resort, opened in October 2020. This private hot spring property has 24 guest suites, each over 50 square metres, a bar and lounge overlooking a Japanese garden and a fine dining restaurant serving the freshest, top-class Tochigi Prefecture meals.
Aside from all these enlightening pastimes and enticing venues, be sure to visit Nikko’s historic sake brewery, Watanabe Sahei Shoten. Whether you like sake or not, be open-minded and take a tour and learn about sake making at this seventh-generation brewery now run by Yasuhiro Watanabe. Afterwards, taste different sakes from dry to sweet and learn what foods are best with each kind. While it didn't change mine, it may just change your mind about sake.
Tofu skin (Nikko-yuba) is a local delicacy worth trying. Image: © Nannette Holliday
Nikko is also renowned for its unique kakigori (shaved ice). While kakigori is popular throughout Japan, Nikko’s ice purveyors still utilise traditional, century-old methods to make it, and I assure you, you will taste the difference! During winter, the mineral-rich, natural frozen spring waters around Tochigi Prefecture are carefully collected and stored. Then during the hot summer months, various local establishments shave the ice so thinly, it becomes fluffy, like fresh snow. Complemented with your favourite syrup or fresh fruit topping, I guarantee you’ll enjoy mouth-melting, delicious moments consuming this refreshing delight.
Be sure to try as many local foods around Nikko as you can. You’ll find an array of temple cuisines and small serve, fresh seasonal dishes, even tofu skin (that tastes better than it looks). At Yuzawa-ya teahouse, they’ve been serving traditional homemade desserts with their teas since 1804. While at Gyoshintei, be sure to check out the traditional Japanese interior and views of the surrounding Japanese garden.
The Tobu Railway takes travellers from Tokyo to scenic Nikko. Image: © Nannette Holliday
If you travel by Tobu Railway to Nikko, they offer discount passes for foreign visitors. The Nikko Pass ‘All Area’ includes a round trip from Asakusa Station in Tokyo to Nikko, plus unlimited travel on the buses and trains around the Nikko region. The tourist buses go to all the major sites.
A few minutes from Nikko station you’ll also find the tourist information centre. Pick up hiking and regional maps here as well as any additional information to ensure your stay is zen perfect and as stress-free as possible.
If you want to explore more of Japan after Nikko, a great way to do that is with a Japan Rail Pass. They give you 7, 14 or 21 days unlimited travel on Japan Rail which has a network of lines that covers the whole country.
Header image: © Sotnikov Misha
