Yangon: A City Defined By a Golden Pagoda
This article was published prior to the brutal military coup in February 2021. The country is still in a state of armed conflict and civil unrest. It is currently not safe to travel to Myanmar. Foreigners have been arbitrarily detained by the military dictatorship and activists have been executed.
It’s hard to think of any other city in the world that revolves around a single site the way Yangon does around Shwedagon Pagoda.
The massive Buddhist monument, which is far more than just a single pagoda, is the spiritual heart of Myanmar’s largest city. It’s one of Asia’s great religious sites, a striking presence on Yangon’s skyline, and a drawcard strong enough to single-handedly entice foreign travellers.
Myanmar, formerly known as Burma, has steadily opened up to the outside world over the past decade. Some potential visitors remain deterred by the country’s continuing political and ethnic unrest. But those who do choose to go – and they include many travellers aged 55 and over – are rewarded by a destination rich in culture and history.
Many stunning sites beyond Yangon await visitors. They include Bagan, a treasure trove of thousands of ancient temples, Inle Lake with its natural beauty, Mandalay on the Irrawaddy River and the tropical beaches on the Bay of Bengal. But in this article we look at some of the things to see and do during a short visit to Yangon itself.
Shwedagon Pagoda
Shwedagon Pagoda is the natural place to start your visit. Indeed, many travellers visit it more than once during their stay (I went four times on my most recent trip). That’s because each visit offers a different experience. The pagoda ideally needs to be explored both in the early morning and as the sun sets in late afternoon. It’s open each day from 4 am to 10 pm.
The pagoda lies on a hill in central Yangon, formerly Rangoon. It’s visible from many directions, and is easily reached by taxi or Grab car. It has four entrances: north, west, south and east. You can choose any one but the south entrance is considered the main one and has lifts taking you to the pagoda level. The western entrance is impressive too.
The entrance fee for foreigners is 10,000 kyat (around US$6.70). You’ll have to remove your shoes and socks, and collect them on your return; walking barefoot around the pagoda is part of the experience. You’ll also need to dress conservatively. The dress code seems to be enforced somewhat unevenly but if necessary you can rent a longyi, the local sarong-like wrap-around cloth, if you’re wearing shorts or a skirt considered too revealing.
From close up, the 99-metre, gold-plated pagoda is an astonishing sight. It’s best to go with the flow and walk around it clockwise, as is the Buddhist way. Encircling it are a myriad religious structures: stupas, shrines, other places of worship and Buddha images. On the other side of the wide walkway are more such structures; it’s like walking through a bustling religious town, full of colour and humanity.
Always busy are nooks representing the days of the week, where devotees pour water over Buddha images marking the day they were born. Foreign visitors, Buddhist or not, are welcome to join in and many do.
Legend has it that Shwedagon is 2,500 years old, although some historians believe 1,100 to 1,500 years is a more accurate figure. It has been repaired and expanded many times over the centuries.
Most visitors will want to spend at least an hour or two here, stopping from time to time to look at individual temples or shrines and watch local people praying or monks meditating. The atmosphere has an almost festive feel, especially at busy times. The relationship between local worshippers and foreign visitors is an easy one, and taking photos is fine as long as you’re not too intrusive.
Watch out for the temple cats. Sometimes you’ll see them, sometimes you won’t. They live comfortably among the crowds but tend to keep to themselves. Some local visitors like to feed them.
A disappointing sign of the times are the ATMs and money changers you’ll see in the Shwedagon complex. They seem at odds with the overwhelming spirituality of the place.
Yangon’s lakes
Yangon’s two main lakes, Kandawgyi Lake and Inya Lake, are both reservoirs built by the British in the 19th century to ensure reliable water supplies for Yangon. Both are well worth a visit.
Kandawgyi Lake lies just east of Shwedagon. It is surrounded by a large park, and its boardwalk and other exercise paths are popular among locals. Along the lake’s eastern shore is the massive Karaweik, a concrete replica of a Burmese royal barge that today houses a restaurant. The lake is probably best enjoyed at sunset, with the Shwedagon reflected in its waters.
Inya Lake, a few kilometres further north, is Yangon’s largest lake. It too is a popular recreational area and is surrounded by some of Yangon’s fanciest homes, including that of the country’s de facto leader, Aung San Suu Kyi. It was here that she spent 15 years under house arrest before leading her National League for Democracy to victory in the 2015 general election.
Bogyoke Aung San Market
Commonly known simply as Bogyoke Market, this large, covered bazaar in central Yangon is a popular attraction for visitors. Housed in an attractive colonial building dating back almost 100 years, it offers just about anything a visitor could want: art, gold, jewellery, clothes, handicrafts and souvenirs, as well as places to have a drink or snack. The market is fun to explore and lends itself to colourful photography.
Across the road from the market and linked by a footbridge is Junction City, a symbol of the new Yangon. Opened in 2017, it’s a multi-level shopping mall that wouldn’t be out of place in any major Asian city. It also includes an office complex and a hotel. Many international brands have outlets here; prices tend to be steep.
Yangon’s colonial buildings
Thanks largely to its years of isolation, Yangon has some of the finest old colonial buildings in Southeast Asia. History and architecture buffs will enjoy strolling around the downtown area near the Yangon River. Most of these buildings date back to the second half of the 19th century. Many are run down today, to be sure, but they offer a fascinating glimpse into the city’s history. Here’s a list of some of the most significant.
While you’re in the area, you may want to make your way down to Botataung Jetty on the river to watch ferries and water taxis carrying passengers to and from the less affluent Dalah, south of the river, and other commuter destinations. You can also take a sunset cruise on the river.
If you need to escape the tropical heat and are looking for some colonial-style luxury, stop off for a meal or drink at the Strand Hotel overlooking the river. It opened in 1901 and has been restored more than once – most recently in 2016. It’s one of Asia’s grand hotels, evoking memories of an era long gone. Sarkies Bar is a fine spot for a thirst quencher and some live jazz.
And if it’s a local feel you’re after, head for 19th Street in Chinatown for a barbecue and a beer. It’s a popular spot among both backpackers and older visitors, with open-air eating places lining the road.
An old beauty secret
You’ll see many women in Myanmar, and some men too, wearing a yellowish-white cosmetic paste on their faces. It’s called thanaka and is made from the finely ground bark of several trees that grow in central Myanmar, including the thanaka tree itself. The scent resembles sandalwood.
People use the paste not only for cosmetic reasons but because it cools the skin and protects against sunburn. As the BBC describes it, thanaka is Myanmar’s ancient beauty secret.
A word on currency
Myanmar’s currency is the kyat. In 2020, US$1 was worth around 1,450 kyat. Credit cards and US dollars are widely accepted. However, money changers and other establishments will accept only the newer US$100 notes with a blue security ribbon woven into them. So leave your older $100 notes at home. ATMs are becoming widely available but you shouldn’t rely on them always to work.
Header image: © Alan Williams
