Train to Armenia: 3 Days in Yerevan
Armenia, nestled in the highlands of the southern Caucasus, is an ancient nation that has been built and broken through millennia to rise from the ashes each time, more determined than the last. Although geopolitically European, it is nevertheless geographically in western Asia and was once part of the Soviet Union.
The Republic of Armenia, to give the country its full name, was the first state on earth to adopt Christianity as its official religion when Tiridates III of Armenia converted in 301AD in an act of defiance. Today the country is home to many pilgrimage sites, a wealth of religious vestiges, along with modern developments celebrating the country’s upwards projection.
Armenia itself doesn’t necessarily offer enough to see and do to make a long holiday out of it considering it is a landlocked country, smaller than the size of Bhutan. The capital, Yerevan, is a constantly developing city with a gleaming façade but much of the countryside is still undeveloped with wide expanses of rural land as far as the eye can see.
Tagging a trip to Armenia onto a trip to Georgia is super simple and can offer you an eye-opening experience like none other. You can reach Armenia by plane, train, or automobile from Tbilisi, each an adventure on its own. But I would highly recommend the train journey.
Much of the Armenian countryside is green and scenic. Image: © Leonid Andronov
Have a look at this foolproof guide on how to hop onboard the Caucasus Express (not its real name but a missed opportunity for sure – it’s actually called the Tbilisi–Yerevan International Train No 371) and explore the myriad of fascinating locations in Armenia.
How to Take the Train from Tbilisi to Yerevan
Buying tickets in Tbilisi is a quick process but should be done in person. Take your passport to Station Square and head up to the top floor. Tickets range from around $28 to $55 for the overnight train, which departs once daily. You can choose from a private cabin for two people with beds and a TV, a closed compartment with 4 beds, or an open compartment bed. They only take cash at the train station but there is an ATM at the entrance.
Each bed comes complete with two sheets and a pillow, all neatly wrapped in plastic and very hygienic. There are more than enough power outlets all over and clean showers and toilets. These trains are new and modern and offer ample comfort.
The International Train that operates from Tbilisi to Yerevan. Image: © Serkant Hekimci
The journey to the border of Armenia is around two hours and you usually arrive around midnight. The border officers come on board and give you an exit stamp before the train crosses the border and Armenian officials welcome you to their country. Note that some nationalities need to acquire an e-Visa ahead of time which costs $6 but the online process is quick and hassle-free.
Why Take the Train?
Admittedly, I undertook this trip to Armenia with little to no expectation. My only goal was to ride a train across borders and what happened after that would all be a bonus. The train ride to Armenia was nothing but comfortable, well organized, and effortless.
You board the train around an hour before departure but there is no dining cart. This was part of the fun, though. As soon as the wheels started click-clacking, we unpacked our dinner and had an enjoyable group meal on the train. After crossing the border, you can curl up and dose off to the sound of the train steadily pushing on.
The remainder of the journey is around seven hours, but it is about five hours in when the most magical part of your journey will unfold.
First glimpse of Mt Ararat from the night train from Tbilisi. Image: © Louise Pieterse
The train slowly continues through the Armenian countryside when you suddenly start seeing the faint outline of a mountain rising from the horizon. This snow-capped mammoth is Mount Ararat, the very mountain that Noah’s ark landed on in the book of Genesis. Whether you are religious or not, the haunting view of the sun rising over this majestic dormant volcano is one that will fill your memories for years to come.
Three Day Itinerary in Yerevan
If you take the train, you will arrive in Yerevan around 7am so there is the opportunity for a full day of excursions ahead of you. The train station is central in the city but there is no wi-fi in the immediate area and the streets are eerily quiet at that early hour. It is advisable that you arrange pickup from your hotel or Airbnb host if you are not within walking distance. If you do have roaming, you will easily be able to get a Yandex, the local e-hailing application.
PRO TIP: Purchase the Yerevan Card for tourists ahead of time to get access to 40 museums, a guidebook, free guided tours, a SIM card with internet, and free access to the metro train (and one ride to or from the airport if you prefer to fly).
Day 1: Explore Yerevan
The first day is perfect to roam around Yerevan and get acquainted with the local sites. The scope of museums and attractions in Armenia is varied so narrow them down to your own likes and interests. For those interested in old churches, there are many structures in Yerevan worth visiting.
One of the medieval Armenian Apostolic churches in Yerevan. Image: © Louise Pieterse
A must on the itinerary is the Armenian National Museum. The main attraction in the museum is the world’s oldest shoe. It is a leather-bound shoe made more than 5500 years ago and a fascinating piece of human history. The museum is on Republic Square which is also a sight to behold. The crystalline fountain at the steps of the museum is a beautiful addition to the city center.
Matenadaran, or the manuscript museum, is listed in UNESCO’s World Network of Memory and houses tens of thousands of valuable manuscripts dating back centuries. The museum’s heaviest book weighs close to 30kg and is placed in juxtaposition to its smallest, barely tipping the scales at 20g.
Another unmissable addition to your day should be the Yerevan Cascades. Construction started in the 1970s but it was only completed in 2009. Gigantic limestone terrenes shoot up the mountain from a park and an outdoor gallery at its foot. Each of the five levels has a manicured garden with limestone installations but the true magic is the uninterrupted views over Yerevan and towards Mount Ararat in the distance.
PRO TIP: The staircase is an exhausting undertaking and not for the faint of heart. To the left of the main stairs is an entrance to the Cafesjian Center for the Arts which has escalators up to each level. This is recommended either up or down as there are stunning contemporary art pieces lining the halls on the inside.
The many steps of the terraced Cascades in Yerevan. Image: © Louise Pieterse
Finish off your day with dinner at Lavash, one of the most popular restaurants in the city. Here you can indulge in farm-to-table dishes that put a modern spin on classic Armenian dishes. Be sure to try Ghapama, an iconic local dish of stewed beef and rice served inside a hollowed-out roasted pumpkin.
Day 2: Get out of the City
Getting out of Yerevan is easy and many tour companies are offering affordable day trips to all the main sites. Leave the city at around 10 am and set off south to the Khor Virap monastery, the closest point to Mount Ararat (which is actually located in Turkey). The church is no longer active but remains an important pilgrimage site for Christians as this is where the religion spread across the country. The remote location and up-close views of the striking mountain are unimaginably beautiful.
PRO TIP: If you manage to travel during the spring, stop and smell the flowers along the way. There are hordes of fruit orchards on the way to Khor Virap that are bursting into bloom. The pink and white blossoms create a stunning frame for Ararat in the distance.
Majestic Mt Ararat rises behind the Khor Viray monastery. Image: © Louise Pieterse
After a quick stop at the Azat Reservoir viewpoint, Garni is the next stop on the tour. This is one of the most surprising stops in all of the Caucasus. After entering the gates, you are met with a Greco-Roman temple standing almost unscathed at the end of the tree-lined walkway. The colonnaded structure dates back from the first century AD and is the only one of its kind remaining in the former Soviet territories.
Etchmiadzin Cathedral (also spelled Echmiatsin) is cited by many to be the oldest cathedral in the world, and it is the mother church of the Armenian Apostolic Church. This UNESCO world heritage site was completed in 303AD after Saint Gregory the Illuminator had a vision of Jesus descending from heaven and striking a golden hammer into these grounds. This significant stop is not included on all the tours as it significantly increases your driving time in one day.
The last stop is Geghard monastic complex, a 13th-century marvel carved into the mountainside. As you catch your breath after a short steep climb to the obscure location of this monastery, you can’t help but applaud the builders of old for this remarkable feat. The cool cave chambers of the monastery are eerily calm, and the flicker of prayer candles is almost audible over the dripping water coming from the rock in spots.
The well-preserved Greco-Roman temple at Garni. Image: © Louise Peiterse
Whether you are driving yourself or have a private driver, make sure to stop for Gata on the way back to Yerevan. The winding road back to the city is lined with informal bakers pulling these fresh cake-bread hybrid creations out of their tonir ovens. The layers of butter, sugar, and flour melt together in this steaming pastry to send your taste buds into the stratosphere.
Day 3: Sobering and Un-Sobering
There are two big-ticket items still left on your Armenia itinerary, and it is best to group them together in one day.
The Armenian Genocide Memorial, Tsitsernakaberd, is the most highly-regarded attraction in the country and a sobering reminder of the atrocities done to the Armenian people under Ottoman rule. Only 32 countries recognize this massacre as a genocide, legitimizing the pain and suffering of generations of Armenians. Take a walk through the meticulously maintained museum and end your visit at the 44m tall stele and eternal flame.
The walkway to the Armenian Genocide Memorial eternal flame. Image: © Louise Pieterse
Just a short drive down the hill from the memorial is the Yerevan Brandy Company. Considering one of the world’s oldest wine-making facilities was discovered in a cave in Armenia, one would think wine would be a more celebrated entity in the country. They have however left that art to their neighbors in Georgia and have instead focused their craftsmanship on brandy.
Take a tour of the Yerevan Brandy Company and learn about this elixir’s illustrious past and see how it goes from vine to vessel. Taste a selection of their finest offerings before loading up your bags at the shop with as much brandy as your money can buy.
Want to Spend More Time in Armenia?
This three-day itinerary covers the essential places to visit in Armenia but you should by no means be put off from staying longer. In three days, you won’t be able to visit Gyumri, the country’s second-largest city. There you will find another wealth of other sites to visit, giving you an even better understanding of the fascinating Armenian past.
Try brandy tasting instead of wine tasting in Armenia. Image: © Louise Pieterse
There are regular flights between Tbilisi and Yerevan so if the train does not appeal to you or doesn’t make sense due to its long timeframe, hop on a plane and reach Yerevan within an hour. You can also drive through with a private taxi in under 5.5 hours if you are trying to save on time. This way, you can better schedule your arrival time and actual time spent in Yerevan.
Armenia is an intriguing country with a rich culture, well worth exploring for those who have seen most of the rest of western Asia. This whirlwind itinerary might seem daunting but many locations around Yerevan are quite close and it is not too taxing to fit everything in. Armenian people are also notoriously friendly and helpful and basic English is spoken by many so you will easily find your way around.
Strongly consider getting sidetracked the next time you visit Georgia for an adventure of biblical proportions.
Header image: © lovelypeace
