Remarkable Relics of Cambodia’s Khmer Kingdom

Angkor Archeological Park, outside Siem Reap in Cambodia, about 300 km northeast of the capital Phnom Penh, has been recognised by UNESCO as one of the most significant archeological sites in Southeast Asia. Once the centre of the Khmer Kingdom, Angkor has an impressive array of ancient temples from the 9th to the 15th century of the different capitals of the Khmer Empire.

Many have only been discovered in recent times having been consumed since their construction by the jungle. In recognition of the importance of these historic sites, UNESCO has implemented a wide range of protection programmes to safeguard these valuable relics and we are on our way to explore them.

It’s 5am in Siem Reap and still dark. Our tuk tuk driver, Bunlong, is waiting in the lane next to our accommodation. “Just call me Long for short,” he says, introducing himself with a smile, a distinctive pair of white sunglasses perched on his head. He has arranged an early start to see the sunrise over Angkor Wat and to visit the surrounding temples.

On this 6 km ride in the tuk tuk, we are not prepared for the early morning chilliness. Dressed in summer clothes, with a chill wind swirling, and no protection from the cold, the best we could do was hold sheets of cardboard given to us by Bunlong in front of us although as the day got hotter, we appreciated the cooling breezes.

A tuk tuk drops off visitors at the entrance to the Bayon Temple.

But tuk tuks, these great little people movers, bring the world to you in many different ways. Small villages are waking to the day, and as we pass, the air is smoky thick where people have raked fallen leaves on the side of the road and set fire to them, leaving them to burn and smoulder. Early morning cooking aromas waft on the breeze as we putter past small street food stalls setting up for the day.

Nearing the Angkor Ticket Centre we join a line of tuk tuks all heading for the same place. With their human freight, all wobbling along in a procession behind each other they look like something out of another era, reminiscent of old movies of the Far East. The official ticket displaying your photograph allows access to the archaeological park and the temples which Bunlong has selected, so with tickets in hand, we move onto the park to see the first temple.

Angkor Wat

Of the great relics that remain, Angkor Wat, perhaps the world’s greatest temple is as imposing and impressive as it is historically and architecturally significant. It is here, at the gates of Angkor Wat, that Bunlong leaves us to explore.

Approaching the entrance to show our tickets, we are surrounded by tour guides offering their services. This is a religious site, so respectful dressing is required; knees and shoulders need to be covered. There are few tourists at the site in this early part of the day, and later, we will see why Bunlong insisted that we visit the temple early. The sun is rising, the majestic temple is silhouetted against the early morning light, and I am so grateful that I am here to see such beauty. One more item to cross off my bucket list!

At the end of a long path is the magnificent, breath-taking, Angkor Wat, dedicated to the Hindu Gods, Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu. My first impression is: how was this imposing, stunning temple, built over a span of 37 years in the early 12th Century, designed and created? The enormity of the structure and particular aspects of the temple has reportedly had historians and archeologists uncertain as to whether the structure was a temple, observatory, mausoleum, shrine or a combination of all of them due to the placement of the entrances and exits.

Initially a Hindu temple, by the 16th Century it was taken over by the Theravada Buddhists. It is through exploring the internal structures that we come to see the sheer size of the temple. The large courtyards and the elaborate carvings and designs set within the stone work offer an insight into a once lively community.

Photographers gather for the ubiquitous sunrise shots of Angkor Wat.

In different sections of the temple we come across Buddhist monks sitting in quiet contemplation, a reminder that although it is a tourist attraction, it is a revered site for the monks. Wooden stairs have been included to assist people too, although in many areas there are no handrails which can be challenging for older travellers.

Later as we leave the temple, photographers are clustered around the lake waiting for an opportunity to snap the perfect shot of a reflection of the temple in the lake, the day is heating up and the crowds are surging through the entry gates. Outside, Bunlong, in his distinctive white sunglasses, is waiting for us with cold towels, iced drinks and his trusty tuk tuk to take us on to Bayon Temple. This would become a familiar gesture of his kindness to us during this tour.

Bayon Temple

Located in the centre of the Angkor complex, this was the last state temple to be erected and is one of my favourites. On each side of the causeway leading to the south gate of the temple, 54 mythical stone statues symbolise a Hindu myth of creation, and it makes for a fascinating introduction to the temple. We spend time closely observing the statues, marveling at the skill and creativity of the stone masons of that era.

Built in the late 12th and early 13th century, the temple has a chequered history from Buddhism to Hinduism and back to Buddhism and has undergone a number of renovations during its history. Extensive intricate carvings of everyday life, historical figures, mythological and religious images offer a fascinating glimpse into the Khmer Empire.

A close up of some of the stone faces at Bayon Temple.

Just as intriguing are the enormous smiling stone faces carved into the four sides of the 54 ‘face towers’, although only 37 of the towers, containing over 200 serene, smiling faces, now remain.

There is disagreement among historians as to who the faces represent with some believing the faces are meant to represent the Bodhisattva of compassion while others believe they are a portrayal of Khmer King Jayavarman VII. As many Khmer kings thought of themselves as ‘god-kings’ researchers suggest there is merit to both arguments. I like to think it is the Bodhisattva of compassion given the serene, gentle smiles on these enormous stone faces.

Ta Prohm

This is an intriguing temple that continues to be held captive by the jungle. It was established in the late 12th century as a Mahayana Buddhist monastery by King Jayavarman VII. Now, centuries later, gnarled, knotted silk-cotton and strangler fig trees, whose overpowering roots loom large, have rambled over the architecture, firmly entrenching and intertwining themselves around the structures of the temple. It is as bizarre as it is fascinating to see the dominance of nature in such a setting.

Also interesting is the amount of detail in the carvings on the structures and the intricate layout of the temple. We were advised to follow a plan or go with a guide to avoid getting lost. This temple, in particular, is a series of tunnels that open out into vast ‘rooms’, and in one of the 'rooms' we encountered a Chinese family who were trying to find their way out and were looking for Mama, an elderly lady who wandered from the group and disappeared into the internal structure of the temple. We could see how easily someone could get lost. The peculiarities of this temple perhaps explain why it was used as a location for the Hollywood film, Tomb Raider.

Pre Rup Temple

Dedicated to the Hindu God, Shiva, Pre Rup Temple was lost and overgrown with jungle until it was rediscovered in the early 20th century and restoration work began on it in the 1930s. Pre Rup was the state temple of the Khymer King, Rajendravarman II. Founded in the late 10th Century, there is some speculation as to what the temple was used for, but most researchers assume it was used for funerals given its name, Pre Rup, which translates to ‘turning the body’ — a tradition used in Khmer creations.

For older travellers, it can be a challenge to reach the temple. It’s a steep climb over uneven stairs with no handrails; however, you can view the grandeur of the temple and explore the courtyard from the base. If you reach the top of Pre Rup, you will meet the stone lion statues that guard the temple and there is an opportunity to examine the intricate, decorative designs set in the stone structure while exploring the internal space of the temple. There is also a wonderful view of the surrounding jungle and the park.

Banteay Srei

Our last temple of the day is in the late afternoon. As the guidebooks suggest, it’s best to visit at this late hour, as while only a small temple, there is no shade from the heat. Bunlong leaves us at the temple entrance, and we join the queue. Further away from the main Angkor complex, the Hindu temple, Banteay Srei, means ‘citadel of women’. It is also known as ‘the lady temple’ due to the intricate, exquisite carvings of minor female deities that adorn the walls.

Other names given to the temple include ‘the tiny temple’ due to its lack of size, although what this temple lacks in size it makes up for in extensive decorative artwork. And we came to see why it is also known as the ‘the pink temple’ as the reddish-coloured sandstone displays beautiful pinkish hues in the stonework in the late afternoon light.

Banteay Srei, one of the most visited sites in Angkor, was consecrated on 22 April 967 AD according to an inscription at the site. It is another temple that was swallowed by the jungle for centuries and rediscovered in 1914. In 1931, French archeologist, Henri Marchal began the restoration of this beautiful temple. French archeologists called this temple a ‘Jewel in Khmer Art’ as it contains some of the most exquisite art carvings to be found in Angkor. However, the high demand for Angkor antiquities on the black market has unfortunately made this temple a target for armed gangs and it is now under constant surveillance from the authorities.

Restoration work on some of the beautiful carvings at Banteay Srei.

As we leave the temple, Bunlong is waiting in the shade of a tree with his tuk tuk, iced water and cold towels to begin the journey back to Siem Reap. Without his attention to detail and organizational skills we would not have been able to do this journey on our own.

Exploring the five temples allowed us to see the unique architectural features and to get a sense of the character and history of each temple as they are all so diverse. Even with reading the extensive history it appears that historians, archeologists, and scholars do not always agree on historical perspectives related to each temple.

However, for me, viewing the temples raised many questions as to the design, layout and construction of the temples. I was left in admiration of the amazing architectural achievements of this ancient Khmer Kingdom that produced such magnificent structures and for the way in which UNESCO has worked to preserve these historical treasures.