Discovering the Grand Dame of Nuwara Eliya

I'm gasping in awe as each twist and turn reveals many more magical vistas than I can even imagine as my private driver, Susil, manoeuvres the winding mountainous roads across the Central Highlands of Sri Lanka.

I feel like Lady Muck sitting beside him, my camera at the ready. Without me uttering a word, he knows exactly where to stop so I can capture the numerous cascading waterfalls, deep gorges, whitewashed houses propped up precariously along the slopes, and verdant tea plantations snaking across the steep hillsides.

For me, the most majestic urban stop was Nuwara Eliya. It's a quaint town nestled amongst the fertile-laden hills, 6,000 feet above sea level, and commonly known as Sri Lanka's 'Little England'. The area is unlike other parts of this stunningly beautiful tropical island. It features a bevy of British colonial-style buildings that are a lasting tribute to the country's colonial past.

The central highland weather is always much cooler, too. The mornings are misty, and the air is crisper. It's a delightful departure from the coastal warmth of the rest of Sri Lanka, and it invites you to cosy up with a delectable cup of freshly plucked tea and smell the delightful aromas that abound.

The verdant tea plantations of the central highlands.

Nuwara Eliya's iconic Tudor-style Grand Hotel is the perfect place to do this. Arriving via a colourful flowerbed-lined circular driveway flanked by manicured emerald lawns, the hotel looks like it has been plucked directly from the English countryside.

In 1828, the original building was the holiday home of the fifth Governor of Ceylon, Sir Edward Barnes (1824-1831). After his departure, it became a guesthouse, accommodating the many British planters in the region until it was sold to Nuwara Eliya Hotels Company Limited in 1892.

Over the years, it has steadily expanded to become a magnificent two-level building with an English country manor façade that oozes old-world charm and sophistication. In 1990, the Grand Hotel was declared an Archaeology Department of Sri Lanka National Heritage Property site.

Nuwara Eliya's iconic Tudor-style Grand Hotel

I felt like royalty as the scarlet and gold uniformed doorman opened my car door and welcomed me. His broad white smile exuded the Sr Lankan warmth I was becoming very used to.

While Susil explained that I wasn't a guest but just wanted to see the property, I stood at the entrance gazing at the length and elegance of the hallway. The reception wasn't anywhere in sight.

Within minutes, the equally regally dressed head doorman, Singh, was beside me. As we slowly walked down the hallway, stopping at the exquisitely richly decorated sitting rooms, he imparted his knowledge of this grand dame. He's worked at the Grand for over 25 years. His love and joy for its history and charm were expressed in every word he uttered.

The classically stylish reception of the Grand Hotel.

The hotel was indeed a grand, timeless masterpiece. Its elegance was evident in every detail, from the intricate woodwork, plush carpets, and black and white tiling to the stepped vaulted ceilings and ornate chandeliers.

The quiet, dimly lit reception was at the end of the lengthy hallway to the right, with a row of regal portraits behind. The prevailing serenity surprised me. It was a welcoming change to most Asian hotel reception areas I'd experienced.

In contrast, to the left, at the end of another long crystal chandelier-lit hallway, was the buffet dining room, Barnes Restaurant. Named after the building's creator, it was busy with breakfast patrons. Singh explained we'd see it later as I followed him into the Piano Lounge directly ahead.

The elegant furnishings of the cozy Piano Lounge.

The large circular room was elegantly furnished with soft pale grey velvet lounges, and chairs arranged cozily in groups, displaying a friendly, warm atmosphere. A singular crystal chandelier hung low over the centrally positioned black grand piano. A polished brass sign at the side of the entrance stated that many of the room's features were original, including the stained-glass ceiling, herringbone timber floor, the surrounding carved dark timber frames, and the fireplace, which is still lit every night. I envisaged sitting and relaxing here, the magical piano tunes and chic cocktail in my hand soothing my soul after an adventurous day out.

Singh interrupted my meanderings, moving me towards the narrow Library Cocktail Lounge through one of the carved timber arches. The booklined wall and snug velvet tub chairs created another intimate area. More choices! I loved it.

Following him through another archway off the Piano Lounge, he proudly presented the Queens Corridor. The tasteful, L-shaped polished timber distinguishing passageway was adorned with an impressive collection of the who's who of the world and Sri Lanka's most renowned personalities, dignities, or legends who had stayed at the Grand during its almost 200-year lifetime. As I walked past the illustrious guests and the hotel's rich heritage, I was star-struck.

The Queens Corridor with its portraits of famous guests.

The corridor leads to the Public Bar. Its cozy red velvet chairs, rich timber warmth, and movie poster-lined walls oozed more grandness than a typical public bar area.

If only the walls could talk in the Grand Billiard Room. Over 100 years old, it's the oldest billiard and snooker room in Sri Lanka. Its world-class features include three meticulously maintained tables and professional cues.

The Grand Hotel's Wine Bar is next level for wine connoisseurs. It was my kind of room. With over 100 premium-labelled wines, the bar offers personalised, curated tastings and culinary pairings. Guests can also book a dedicated sommelier.

The Grand Billiard Room is Sri Lanka’s oldest.

The upper level of the colonial mansion houses 154 elegantly furnished spacious rooms, including Presidential and Junior Suites. The lavish Deluxe Rooms are 460 sq ft, the exquisite Junior Suite is 826 sq ft, and the palatial Presidential Suite is 1260 sq ft; all are regally appointed and offer a superb stay. The lower level is home to classy shops and a few specialty restaurants.

If you need some time out, rejuvenation or pampering, the Grand Spa and Mindfulness Studio have your every need, whim or fancy covered. Do some laps in the pleasant, temperature-controlled pool, and keep in shape at the Grand Gymnasium.

The property is now championing sustainability, too. It prioritises eco-friendly practices, implements efficient water management, promotes local biodiversity, integrates renewable energy sources, reduces waste, and fosters community engagement so guests can enjoy a greener and more luxurious experience.

One of the luxurious Deluxe Bedrooms in the Grand Hotel.

I'd seen various eating places around Nuwara Eliya just outside the Grand's entrance. But with 11 food and beverage outlets in total, you can enjoy a world of culinary adventures without stepping outside the hotel if you don't want to.

Each venue looked so enticing, from the Grand Thai, open for lunch and dinner, to the Grand Indian, with its inside and outdoor dining area for lunch and dinner, the Magnolia All Day Dining Room offering a range of western and international foods, the semi-outdoor Tea Lounge for those delightfully English high afternoon teas, the Grand Café for coffees, artisan pastries and savoury delights, or journey through Asia, Arabia and Italy at the Fusion Grill with its wood-fired pizzas and tasty Shisha Lounge.

But the hub for hungry tummies is the grandiose Barnes Restaurant, which serves global breakfast, lunch, and dinner buffet dishes and Western cuisines. It's here on the outdoor terrace of Barnes Restaurant that I finally take some time out to enjoy that delightfully refreshing cup of freshly plucked and brewed Ceylon tea.

The relaxing outdoor terrace of the Barnes Restaurant.

I know this is so unlike me, but when in Sri Lanka and the cooler Central Highlands, I find a cup of white, green or lemon tea is perfect, especially after walking almost 10,000 steps around this opulent property with Singh, discovering the beautiful hidden nooks and crannies of the Grand Hotel. The Grand Dame of Nuwara Eliya

Things to do

There is plenty to see and do around Nuwara Eliya, from half-day trips to checking out the mesmerising waterfalls and lush green tea plantations and seeing the tea being handpicked and processed.

Explore the nearby picturesque Hakgala Botanical Garden, Sri Lanka's second-largest and linked to the epic tale of the Ramayana, or hit 18 holes at historic Nuwara Eliya Golf Club. Founded in 1889, and directly adjacent to the Grand Hotel, and surrounded by shady eucalyptus trees, it's the second oldest golf club in Asia.

The Nuwara Eliya racecourse is the only one in Sri Lanka.

Just a stone's throw away from the hotel is the iconic Nuwara Eliya racecourse. Once the centre for British gentry, it's rarely used today. Nearby, manmade Lake Gregory is a serene reservoir, offering a tranquil escape with water sports and swimming in the shimmering, refreshing waters.

For the more active and adventurous, there are scenic hikes through Horton Plains National Park to breathtaking World's End, a 4000-foot sheer cliff. Stroll around Nuwara Eliya's streets, lined with quaint shops, and discover local handicrafts, teas, and spices. At night, a bustling market provides traditional delicacies and local street food.

Getting there

Nuwara Eliya is a four to five-hour winding, but scenic drive from Colombo's Bandaranaike International Airport. Alternatively, for a more adventurous journey, take a train from Colombo to Nanu Oya Railway Station (eight kilometres from Nuwara Eliya) and see stunning misty mountains and tea plantation views along the way. Taxis and tuk-tuks are readily available at the station.

Rooms at the Grand Hotel Nuwara Eliya start from approximately US$200 a night.