Bangkok Riverside: History and Heritage at Lhong 1919
Situated on the Thonburi side of the Chao Praya River, Lhong 1919 Heritage at Heart is an historic steamship pier complex built in the 1850s. Today it serves as a commemoration to Thai-Chinese history after extensive preservation work and reopening in November 2017. It’s home to some interesting shops and galleries, and lots of eateries. It’s an enjoyable place to visit for half a day – especially if you are a history buff – or you are just looking for something different to the usual tourist haunts when in Bangkok.
Hop on a ferry from Sathorn pier, the central ferry terminal in Bangkok, for a five-minute ferry ride along the river. You won’t miss the large red banners that line the waterfront of the pier announcing Lhong 1919. However, if you arrive like we did, by tuk tuk, you’ll enter Lhong through a side entrance. There, over-sized red lanterns embellished with gold threads and tassels and long red banners draped through the walkway, welcome you to the expansive internal courtyard.
There are different interpretations of the name Lhong, although according to the Bangkok Post it is derived from the Thai word Huo Chuan Long, meaning steamboat pier, while 1919 is the year the Wanglee family purchased the premises.
Inside Lhong 1919 looking towards the river. Image: © thaiseaman
The history of the pier is a tale of steam ships plying their trade from old Siam to China, Hong Kong and Singapore. It is a tale of a once historic port with a collection of warehouses and buildings that stored imported goods and became a trading hub for Chinese merchants. It also became the main entry point for Chinese immigrants seeking a better life in a new land. Additionally, it is a tale of the Wanglee family’s wish to preserve the heritage and history of an old steamship pier and its warehouses.
As with many immigrants the world over, the story of Wanglee, a young Chinese immigrant, is one of courage, resilience, and determination. He arrived at the steamship pier in 1871. His foresight to enter the rice market, which became a booming economy, allowed him to build a number of rice mills along the river, one of which was next to the steamship pier.
In 1919, a successful Wanglee bought the steamship pier, the warehouses and a shrine building. The warehouses were storage for his produce, office space and a place for his employees to live. His descendants continued to manage and expand the business throughout the 21st Century. However, by 2015 the site had become dilapidated and neglected. In 2016, the family made the decision to restore the site as a tribute to the memory of the history and heritage contained within the location.
Street food on sale inside the Lhong 1919 complex. Image: © CK Travels
Today, Lhong 1919 offers a respite from the busyness of Bangkok. Sitting in the courtyard early in the day offers a chance to contemplate the surroundings and take in the atmosphere of this historic area. This complex, with its three buildings that form a U shape around the central courtyard has been designed according to Chinese feng shui principles which relate to the interconnection between the sky, river and earth.
It is wonderful to hear the haunting Chinese music and smell the incense wafting across the courtyard. Large wooden tubs hold potted shrubs and in others, huge white stone pots display collections of water lilies. Rustic wooden seating is dotted throughout the courtyard and everywhere, red Chinese lanterns and umbrellas abound.
The level of care and sensitivity used in the restoration of the old warehouses is evident. The character of the buildings has been retained and preserved without too much intrusive redecoration through adhering to compatible preservation methods. Surrounded by such history conveys a sense of Old China.
Wall murals depicting early life along the waterfront. Image: © Vin Coffey
Facing the river in the main building is the all-important Mazu Shrine, Goddess of the Sea, protector of all fishermen and seafarers. This 168-year-old shrine was brought by boat from China and consists of three wooden figures. An information plaque highlights the three different stages of her manifestation as:
A young girl who could predict safe sea travel and heal the sick;
Mazu, giving blessings for good fortune;
The Empress in Heaven, full of kindness and compassion.
This shrine has been a place of prayer for fisherman and seafaring travellers for generations.
There is plenty to explore in the arty shops that surround the courtyard. Once part of the warehouses, these shops with tiny windows and scarred and imperfect walls live to breathe new life and energy into these historical spaces. We are unable to access the top floor as all entries to the stairways are roped off, so we set out to inspect the art and sculpture galleries, the boutiques and gift shops that are the new inhabitants at ground level.
A visitor in traditional Chinese dress with his dog. Image: © Vin Coffey
Many of the shops and galleries are strongly thematic of Chinese culture with shops displaying Chinese wares, ornate statues, tiny bamboo bird cages, colourful shopping bags, traditional clothing and parasols much of which encroaches onto the walkways outside the shops.
One small gallery has a replica collection of terracotta warriors and as with the original terracotta warriors some are standing, some are crouching and all are facing the front door as if ready for battle. On blemished, patchy walls surrounding these figures is vibrant artwork depicting the warriors. Interesting too is the nearby sculpture gallery filled with an impressive collection of water buffalo of varying shapes and sizes.
Outside the gallery, an enormous sculptured, bronze water buffalo sleeps idly in the sun. Nearby the altar to Mazu, burning joss sticks and incense cast a heavy pall of smoke over the sleeping giant. In the same vicinity, a sensitive restoration of large wall murals of life in the community offers an interesting glimpse into those early days.
Replica terracotta warriors and art exhibits at Lhong 1919. Image: © Vin Coffey
We choose a snack and some iced tea from one of the many eateries and head back to the courtyard to people watch. It is getting busy. A ferry has arrived with another group of sightseers. They pour into the complex, cameras and selfie-sticks at the ready. A group of school students in navy blue and white uniforms are lining up for official photos, laughing at the formality of it all.
The fascinating history of Lhong 1919 and the decision by the Wanglee family to restore this complex has given Thailand a valuable gift – one that honours the heritage and history of the Thai Chinese immigrants, the old pier, the warehouses and the memories from those historic days.
Lhong 1919 Heritage at Heart is open daily from 8am to 8pm and is free to visit.
Header image: © Jillian Huntley
