8 Places to Discover for Returning Visitors to Bangkok
With 22 million international overnight visitors in 2018, Bangkok topped the index for world’s most visited cities beating Paris and London which came in second and third respectively. This was the fourth consecutive year Bangkok had taken the top spot.
Krung Thep (as it’s known to locals, which roughly translates to ‘city of angels’) offers tourists an incredible experience of cultural tradition-meeting-modernity. Its world-class food, stunning historical landmarks, superlative shopping, welcoming people, and some of the world’s best hospitality are just a few of the reasons millions flock here. With its two international airports, Bangkok is also the gateway for visitors looking to explore other regions of Thailand.
If you’ve visited Bangkok several times before and seen most of the ‘must-do’ sights and attractions, then this list of Bangkok ‘discoveries’ might help you delve further into the city’s charms, and experience some of its more authentic and even quirky aspects.
1. Khlong Saen Saeb
Bangkok is infamous for its road traffic congestion and the madness it creates. Go back to the 19th century, and the city was known as the ‘Venice of the East’ with its labyrinth of Khlong (canals). Over time, these have been filled in and paved over to make way for roads. Thankfully, a sizeable network of waterways still criss-cross Bangkok. In fact, each day thousands commute by motorised boats on the Chao Phraya River and on the canals that feed into it.
One of the central cross-city canals is Khlong Saen Saeb which cuts an 18 km path across Bangkok city from east to west. Passing through areas like Phayathai, Pratunam, Chitlom, Nana, Asok Road, Thonglor and Ekkamai. While busy during rush hour, these longtail riverboats are convenient for shopping, sightseeing and experiencing Bangkok as the locals do. There are temples, markets, simple old wooden houses and even ornate Italian Baroque bridges en route.
These river gondolas on steroids can be difficult to get on and off as there’s no specific entry door like you find on the Chao Phraya ferries. You simply have to step under a bar directly on to seats anywhere you can along the boat. They come to a stop rapidly and take off just as fast, so falling into the canal is a distinct possibility for older travellers, if not careful. Tickets are always purchased onboard with fares between 10 and 20 baht. These riverboats provide a great glimpse into Bangkok life as locals go about their daily routine. The Transit Bangkok website has route maps and related information.
2. Jim Thompson enterprises
You have probably heard of, or even visited 'Jim Thompson House' in central Bangkok. In fact, it’s near one of the riverboat stops on Saen Saeb Khlong. When visiting his home, which now acts as a museum, you’ll gain an understanding of the impact this American architect and WWII spy had since making Bangkok his home at the end of WWII.
The 40-minute tour of his teak Thai style house and gardens certainly offers some insights to his life. As well as physically walking through the environment you learn of his dedication to Asian history, culture and ancient artefacts, as well as his beloved Thai silk industry which he is credited with revitalising internationally. Jim Thompson’s efforts for the Thai silk industry have been recognised by Thai Royal and Government authorities.
Jim Thompson retail stores (in Bangkok and other tourist locations in Thailand) are where you can see Thompson’s Thai Silk Company products first hand. Alternatively, make an effort to visit the Jim Thompson Factory Outlet at Prakanong (Bangkok). Here you will find three floors neatly laden with fabrics plus another two levels of clothing, accessories and homewares. The range of materials and related products is impressive and at prices more appealing than in the retail outlets. Plan ahead to make sure there’s some extra room in your suitcase.
3. The Atlanta Hotel
This definitely fits into quirky Bangkok. At the end of Sukhumvit Soi 2 is a hotel whose foyer is caught in a 1950s time warp. The hotel's website explains it is the oldest unaltered hotel foyer in Thailand. Designed by Berliner Dr Max Henn and his wife in the 1950s, its influences go to central European theatre architecture and set designs of the 1920s and 1930s.
The hotel's website explains:
“Run on conservative principles and imperiously heedless of fashions and trends, The Atlanta is untouched by pop culture and post-modern primitivism. Its style and atmosphere hark back to gentler and more cultivated times. The Atlanta is an old-fashioned place of charm and genteel character in downtown Bangkok with the secluded and secure atmosphere of a private club and the facilities of a small resort for sleaze-free and wholesome tourism.”
Take the time to explore the various rooms and corridors found off both sides of the central foyer reading some the press clippings and magazine stories about the hotel in its glory days. You will also learn about the movies and television shows the lobby has appeared in. Head through the glass doors beside the central stairway into the back garden and pool area, and let your imagination take you back to fabulous 50s or swinging 60s. Quirky and unexpected Bangkok at its best and only a 10-minute walk from Phloen Chit BTS station.
4. Hua Lamphong Station
Having celebrated its 100th year of operation in 2016, Bangkok’s central railway station, Hua Lamphong, will soon wind down operations, close, and become a museum. With only two years of service left, this notable station will be superseded by the currently under construction Bang Sue Grand Station. Upon opening in late 2020 or early 2021, Bang Sue Grand Station will be the biggest railway station in Southeast Asia, surpassing KL Sentral (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia) which currently holds that honour.
So why visit Hua Lamphong now?
Marvel at the station’s Italian Neo-Renaissance-style with its steel-structured arched roof and massive stained-glass windows decorating the two ends. The Turin-born architect Mario Tamagno design also showcases the elegant use of marble through the central concourse and an iconic clock. The main platforms are a hive of activity, and if you plan your visit strategically, you could be in time to witness one of the world's best luxury trains, the Eastern & Oriental Express, arriving or departing.
Hua Lamphong, with its 14 platforms servicing over 130 trains and approximately 60,000 passengers each day, is excellent for opportunist photographers and people-watchers as travellers head to all corners from this bustling railway hub. This is where you catch the overnight sleeper trains to Chiang Mai in northwestern Thailand. Or if Malaysia is calling, set off on what was originally called the International Express with its first- and second-class sleepers taking you overnight to the Thai-Malaysia border.
Getting to Hua Lamphong is easy thanks to the MRT (Metropolitan Rapid Transit) underground connection to Hua Lamphong MRT Station.
5. Temple of the Golden Buddha (Wat Traimit)
While visiting Hua Lamphong, it makes sense to venture into one of Bangkok’s ‘must visit’ districts, Chinatown. A simple 5-7 minute walk to reach the Chinatown Gateway, the ceremonial entrance to the eastern end of Chinatown. Just 50 meters before the Chinatown Gateway is Wat Traimit and a ‘must stop’ while in the area.
Why visit? To feast your eyes on the undoubtedly impressive three-metre tall, 5.5 tonne, solid-gold Buddha image, which gleams like, well, gold.
The Buddha image now housed here was purportedly built in the 1400s and resided in the ancient Siam capital of Ayutthaya. In the 1700s locals covered many precious pieces, including this Buddha image in plaster to protect it from invading Burmese. Still covered in its plaster, the Buddha image was moved to Bangkok in the mid-1800s.
It was not until 1955 that the gold Buddha was discovered underneath thanks to an accident while being relocated. In February 2010, it was moved to its current home -- a large new building at the Wat Traimit Temple. Our advice is to pay the 40 THB entrance fee, climb the stairs, remove your shoes and enter the gilded room to stare in wonderment at this beautiful Buddha image.
6. Chinatown
Chinatown is on almost everyone’s must-visit list when in Bangkok, and these visits are often taken at night when the main thoroughfare of Yaowarat Road comes to life with its neon lights, street-side food stall, eateries, restaurants and an atmosphere that fizzes and crackles with energy.
However, on a return trip try to visit during the day as well, so you can wander through the tight alleyways, with old wooden shophouses and markets selling everything from Chinese herbal medicines, fresh and dried foods, fabrics, clothes, electronic goods, and furniture to gold jewellery. Burning incense wafts from colourful, ornate temples, and delicious aromas from restaurants and street stalls beckon. Yaowarat Road could be considered the high street of Bangkok’s Chinatown with adjacent Charoen Krung Road a shopper’s delight.
If looking for a self-discovery walking tour, we suggest heading west on Charoen Krung Road after departing Wat Traimit, with the goal of delving into some of the small Chinatown laneways running off and behind Charoen Krung Road.
Heading north-west on Charoen Krung Road is The Canton Shrine (Thong Ching Thang) built by the local Chinese community and registered in March 1920 as an official religious site. As part of the community’s initial planning, people travelled back to China in the 1880s to source and import the materials that would become the stone columns and staircases, lion and dragon statues, and tiles used within the shrine. All were then assembled in Thailand according to traditional Chinese architectural style. Chinese deities brought from China are featured within the sanctuary with locals believing these deities bring good luck and prosperity to the Chinese community and their families. The Shrine building and forecourt is a tranquil place of worship and rest despite being surrounded and overshadowed by modern buildings and traditional Chinese shophouses.
About 100 meters along Charoen Krung Road after the Canton Shrine is Charoen Chai 2, an alley that takes you into the Charoen Chai (Thai-Chinese) community. It’s one of those old communities that are very much a part of the history and growth of Chinatown and old Bangkok. Presently it’s a popular market for Chinese joss papers used as prayer offerings and ceremonies during auspicious occasions on the Chinese cultural calendar. During a visit in late November, the shops were stocked with colourful lanterns, garlands and other material in preparation for the Winter Solstice.
The Charoen Chai alleys connect with others and continue west. Shophouses specialising in the construction of traditional coffins, stalls with every conceivable type of loose-leaf tea, stores laden with spices and herbs, along with noodle and dumpling sellers. A magical mystery tour.
When you’ve had your fill of new discoveries head back to Charoen Krung Road or onto Yaowarat Road to continue your Chinatown explorations.
As of July 2019, an extension of the MRT line (Blue Line) from Hua Lamphong came into operation. This extension travels underground from Hua Lamphong to Chinatown, the Grand Palace and under the Chao Phraya River to Thonburi. This will make life so much easier for tourists visiting both Chinatown, the old city, and Wat Arun (‘Temple of Dawn’) on the Thonburi side of the river.
7. Chatuchak Market
Research indicates that Chatuchak Market was once only popular among wholesalers and traders. Now Chatuchak has reached a landmark status as a must-visit place for tourists. Its sheer size (27 acres) and diverse collections of merchandise (more than 15,000 market stalls divided into 27 sections) will bring even seasoned shoppers to their knees.
On a typical weekend, more than 200,000 visitors come to sift through and bargain with sellers. So serious and dedicated are some shoppers that you will see them pulling around massive suitcases on wheels expecting to fill them with wares by day’s end.
The maze of alleys criss-crossing for what seem like kilometres and all stacked high with goods is both overwhelming and confusing. Despite the site map showing some order and system to the layout of the market - once inside the alleys you could become overcome with a sense of being trapped, and fearing you will never be able to get out.
Thankfully there are regular opportunities to stop for sustenance with food and drink stalls offering everything from freshly roasted crispy pork to a quite decent Spanish Paella; and great coffee to cold beers.
Located on the north-western side of central Bangkok, Chatuchak Weekend Market is easily accessed by the BTS (Skytrain) and the MRT (underground metro) alighting at Chatuchak Park BTS or MRT stations. The market operates 10 am to 5 pm, Saturday and Sunday. It’s best to arrive as close to opening time as possible to beat the crush of the crowds.
8. Cabbages & Condoms
If looking for a fun and interesting place to eat in the Sukhumvit Soi 12 area then Cabbages & Condoms restaurant is worth checking out. Their website says:
“Our restaurant was conceptualised in part to promote better understanding and acceptance of family planning and to generate income to support various development activities of the Population and Community Development Association (PDA ).””
The restaurant has quite a large seating capacity, and is divided into courtyard garden zones along with downstairs and upstairs air-conditioned dining areas. The décor is quirky yet professional, the food predominantly Thai and the service attentive. The message of safe sex is everywhere across the restaurant from menus to décor elements, though it’s all delivered in a fun and entertaining way! Additionally, their gift shop has lots of quirky (and generally tasteful) items that could make great gifts for friends and family who have a sense of humour.
Header image: © Sumeth Anusornkamala
