Discovering Isan: Thailand’s Least Visited Region
As one of the most visited countries in the world, it’s hard to fathom why Thailand’s largest region, equating to nearly one-third of its landmass, is still ‘off the beaten track’ as far as international tourism is concerned.
The good news is that this northeastern region – Isan – has much to discover, especially for independent and inquisitive travellers with their own vehicle.
Expect beautifully restored Khmer ruins dating back to the Angkor era, intriguing temples, lively festivals, and diverse national parks. Encounter glimpses of Thailand of old: rice fields stretching to the horizon complete with languid water buffalos; rustic villages; silk weavers working their looms; and a rhythm of life attuned to nature’s seasons. Delve into Isan’s distinct cuisine, and appreciate how its language and culture are more Lao than Thai, with influences of Khmer and Vietnamese thrown into the mix.
Though English is not widely spoken, if you are after authentic experiences, with a little extra effort, Isan will surely satisfy. And all without having to give up your creature comforts.
Given the vastness that is Isan, the focus of this article is on Isan’s southern region, setting out some of the ‘discoveries’ and highlights awaiting you.
Nakhon Ratchasima (aka Khorat)
Nakhon Ratchasima is the southernmost city in Isan and considered the gateway to the region. It is also commonly called Khorat and takes that name from the Khorat Plateau where it sits at the southwestern edge.
Today’s modern-day city can trace its roots back to the late 17th century when King Narai of Ayutthaya ordered the construction of the town to protect the Siam Kingdom’s north and eastern frontiers from Laotian or Khmer attack.
The original ‘Old City’ was surrounded by immense stone walls complete with protective moat, much like Chiang Mai, in Thailand’s northwest. The water-filled moat along with sections of the ancient walls and several of its imposing entry gates remain.
Being the largest of Isan’s four big cities, it is an administrative, commercial and transport hub with direct road and rail links south to Bangkok, north to Nong Khai on the Thai - Laos border, and east to the Cambodian border. Home to several universities, it is also a centre for health care for the surrounding region.
Khorat does not have the polished veneer of a city focused on tourism. It could be described as functional, perhaps with an industrial feel, though most importantly, it is authentically Thai - and that is one of its endearing charms.
Modern-day creature comforts are here with accommodation options from hostel-style through to quality high rise hotels. Three large modern shopping centres that could have been plucked straight out of central Bangkok will satisfy even the most jaded shopper. The city’s Central Market, a covered wet market located in the old town, offers a more authentic local shopping experience.
Khorat’s food and dining choices include all the typical street food stalls, small family-run cafes, through to more modern upmarket offerings. Near the central train station (and Catholic school) is the ‘Meang Ya 100-year Market’ which opens in the evenings offering Thai food from hawker-style stalls, and is worth a visit.
Isan Cuisine
And looking more broadly at food, the Isan, or north-eastern cuisine, is one of five distinct Thai regional cuisines, and is influenced by its Laos and Khmer history. Being of the land, Isan people are incredibly resourceful and eat things that are readily available and easy to catch, so for example, frogs and a variety of insects are local specialities.
Don’t worry though as Isan cuisine has an abundance of other tasty and more appealing dishes - all characterised by their mouth-watering hot, salty and spicy flavours. Dishes like somtam (papaya salad), grilled meats like chicken and pork, spicy salads of meat or fish (laab), fermented Isan sausages, Thai Hot Pot (jim jum), and a staple of all meals in Isan – sticky rice.
Khorat has its food specialities including pad mee khorat. A stir-fried rice noodle dish similar in style to the famous pad Thai, though with a more distinct and spicy taste – and well worth seeking out. For the more adventurous, checkout som tam khorat which differs to somtam Thai in that this spicy papaya salad comes infused with lashings of the local ‘stinky pickled fish sauce’.
Famous Locals
Immortalised in an elegant statue adjacent to the southern (Chumphon) Gate of the old city wall is one of Khorat’s most revered figures.
‘Ya Mo’ (grandmother Mo) was the wife of Nakhon Ratchasima’s deputy governor back in 1826. At that time the Vientiane King Anouvong invaded the region seeking complete independence from Siam. Anuvong’s forces seized the city by a ruse when the governor was away. His troops captured all the residents and started marching them north to Laos.
According to the generally accepted version of the story, when the Lao invaders ordered the women to cook for them, ‘Ya Mo’ requested knives so they could prepare food. That evening, as the invaders slept, she gave the blades to her male townfolk who surprised the Lao troops, causing them to flee. All the prisoners were now free to return to their homes with all calling ‘Ya Mo’ their hero and saviour. Her heroism was formally recognised by King Rama III who bestowed on her the title Lady Suranari or ‘the brave lady’.
Nearly 200 years later, Thai visitors to the city make a special pilgrimage to her statue in Suan Rak Park to pay respect, offer prayers, and ask for the granting of wishes from this inspirational woman. If in Khorat at the end of March and beginning of April you can join in the annual festival in Ya Mo’s honour.
Khorat Cat
Also, in Suan Rak Park, not far from the ‘Ya Mo’ memorial, another long-time resident of Khorat is immortalised in a statue. The Khorat (or Korat) Cat is a symbol of good fortune. A cousin to the Siamese, its blue-grey fur glistens like silver, bright green eyes symbolise prosperity, and its heart-shaped face is said to bring happiness to brides. It is known colloquially as the ‘good luck’ or ‘lady luck’ cat.
With Khorat is an ideal base, the following are all easy day trips or extensions to your southern Isan explorations.
Ancient Khmer Ruins
Until the 14th century, the area of Nakhon Ratchasima was under Khmer empire rule and boasts three significant, well preserved archaeological sites. Two are to the east of Khorat and the other to the north.
Situated in Buriram province of Isan, and around 130 km east of Khorat, are two Khmer temple complexes - Phanom Rung Historical Park and Muang Tam. They are also just 50 km away from the current Cambodian border, as the crow flies.
Built over 1,000 years ago as Hindu temples, they later became sites for Buddhist worship. These Khmer ruins are of the same era and architectural style as Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, and are said to be one of the most important ancient Khmer monuments in Thailand.
Meaning ‘Big Mountain’ the beautifully restored Phanom Rung was constructed of pink sandstone and laterite and sits atop the crater of Phanom Rung Mountain, an extinct volcano. Rising to 200 metres above the surrounding plain, it dominates the landscape in every direction. Built for the worship of Shiva, Phanom Rung was undoubtedly the most prestigious religious site and pilgrimage destination of this area during that period.
Muang Tam lies on the plains around 8 km to the south-east and is considered to have been the primary urban centre and capital of the region. The central temple complex with four surrounding L- shaped ponds presents a unique architectural style with marvellous stone decoration, and gives a sense of the grandeur of this ancient site.
Tickets to the Phanom Rung Historical Park give you access to both sites. Most visitors prefer the mornings as it’s cooler, though if your schedule allows, we would recommend visiting in the afternoon for more leisurely and less crowded exploration.
Phimai Historical Park some 65 kilometres north of Khorat is another Khmer ruin. In the 10th to 14th centuries when the Khmer empire ruled over much of mainland Southeast Asia, Phimai was one of their regional centres and is said to have stood at the northern end of a path leading south to the Khmer capital at Angkor.
Painstakingly restored, Prasat Phimai now ranks among the most impressive historical sites in Thailand. Most buildings are from the late 11th to the late 12th century with the tower of the main sanctuary soaring to nearly 30 meters. It’s widely assumed to be a model for the five towers of Angkor, built several years later.
Unlike Angkor Wat or Phanom Rung, this site is in much better condition thanks to it not being attacked, ransacked or destroyed by regional conflicts way back then. The Thai government’s Fine Arts department in various projects over the last 80 years has restored this ancient city so visitors can now educate themselves about the history and enjoy the magnificence of this early Khmer architecture.
While in Phimai, do take the time to visit the Phimai National Museum, one of the biggest and best in Isan. Just 300 metres from the historical park, the museum consists of two spacious buildings housing a fine collection of Khmer sculptures from not just Phimai but also many other ruins around Isan.
Annually in November, the Phimai Festival happens offering elaborate longboat races, cultural parades, folk performances, and spectacular light and sound shows.
Dan Kwian Earthenware
If venturing out to Phanom Rung take the time to stop at Dan Kwian, a village just 20 km east of Khorat noted for unique pottery widely used for interior and outdoor decoration. Its durability, flexibility and rusty black bronze colour are all elements of its uniqueness.
It seems that in the olden days, local people of the district crafted different types of pottery from the clay of the nearby Moon River. These products were made in vast quantities and bartered for food or necessary materials as well as sold in other regions.
Nowadays, Dan Kwian’s earthenware district is a prime place to pick up all sizes of pots, vases, jars as well as garden accessories, at exceptionally affordable prices.
Thailand’s Home of Silk
Another point of interest just 30 km south of Khorat is one of Thailand’s most recognised silk-weaving communities - Pak Thong Chai Village. Working in co-operatives and embracing their creative skills, villagers produce the sought after Khorat-texture silk. Additionally, The Thai Silk Company, part of the Jim Thompson corporation, is based here and produces exquisite silk on a commercial level for the world market.
Internationally Significant ‘Green’ Zone
Running along the bottom of the Khorat Plateau is an important forest complex spanning 230 km in length. It starts on the Cambodian border in the east with Ta Phraya National Park and stretches west to Khao Yai National Park. This vast green corridor, encompassing five national parks in total, is one of mainland Southeast Asia’s most extensive and best-preserved forests.
These connected parks form the UNESCO-listed Dong Phaya Yen-Khao Yai Forest Complex - a forest of international significance for its biodiversity and the conservation of endangered mammals, reptiles and birds.
Travelling south from Khorat, you can be in the nearest of these parks, Khao Yai National Park, in just over two hours (130 km). With its many waterfalls, diverse wildlife such as bears, gibbons, elephants and hornbills, along with an abundance of hiking and biking trails. Khao Yai could easily consume a few days of your time.
You also might consider staying a few more days in the Wang Nam Khiao district, a green zone wedged between Khao Yai and Ta Phraya National Parks. Take the time to explore its picturesque villages, lush countryside, unique temples, wineries, organic farms, boutique guest houses and cafes. The district is said to have the cleanest air in Thailand.
Khorat and Isan Festivals
We’ve already listed two festive celebrations specific to the Khorat region. Looking more broadly at the Isan region you might also want to consider these hugely popular northeastern festivals:
In May, to mark the beginning of the rainy season, the area of Yasothon hosts their boisterous Bun Bang Fai or Rocket Festival.
The end of June or beginning of July sees the equally raucous Phi Ta Kon or Ghost Festival in Dan Sai near Loei.
In July, Ubon Ratchathani hosts the extravagant candle festival to mark Vassavasa.
In October, the Mekong near Nong Khai hosts the annual ‘Naga Fireball Festival’ with crowds gathering to watch mysterious – and as yet unexplained – balls of fire bursting from the Mekong River.
The third Saturday in November sees Surin stage the flamboyant ‘elephant round-up’ festival – a two-day celebration of the Thai elephant.
Summary
Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) is an ideal gateway to Thailand’s Isan region and offers a perfect base to discover its southern attractions. Allow time to really delve into its historical, cultural and modern-day delights. Once you start to understand the delights of this region, we’re sure you will be planning further trips of discovery to this vast northeastern region of Thailand.
Note: we have used ‘Isan’ (Isan/Thai: อีสาน) in this article. You will also see it written as Isaan, Isarn, Issarn, Issan, Esan, or Esarn. All are acceptable versions.
Header image: © Geargodz
