Kathmandu’s main tourist area is the bustling district of Thamel. It’s a busy place, full of hotels, restaurants and shops, and its narrow alleys are crowded with visitors. But this wasn’t always so. When backpackers began discovering Kathmandu in the 1960s and 1970s, most stayed in an area further south, around the historic Durbar Square. It’s one of the many ways Kathmandu has changed over the years – and some of the changes have been dramatic.