South Korea remains one of the least explored East Asian countries, with most visitors not venturing further than its capital Seoul and the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) buffer between North and South Korea.  But the ‘Land of the Morning Calm’ lives up to its name with vast open spaces, peaceful scenic walks and eclectic wellness experiences interspersed between cosmopolitan cities, modern high-rises and ancient palaces.

Situated on the southern portion of the Korean Peninsula, the country has much to offer any traveller. And those over 50 will enjoy its relaxed pace with many finding themselves falling love with the country’s people and culture.

South Korea’s land mass is over 100,000 square kilometres, including approximately 3,000 islands (the majority small and uninhabited). Its narrowest point is just 175 kilometres wide. The country is bounded on the east by Sea of Japan, the south by the East China Sea and the west by the Yellow Sea. Its only land border is with North Korea with a 250-kilometre-long by four-kilometre-wide DMZ in between, established after the 1953 armistice.

No matter where you travel around South Korea you’ll be surrounded by a treasure trove of ancient history, unique traditions, sumptuous foods, amazing markets, sensational shopping, stunning natural landscapes and stretches of superb sandy beaches.

Watch the Changing of the Guard at a palace, dress-up in a colourful traditional costume and walk around a Hanok village. Sip tea at a traditional ceremony, do karaoke at K-Pop nightspots and chillax and pamper yourself at one of the many spas — South Korea has something to offer everyone.

With 13 UNESCO World Heritage Sites throughout the country, it’s a hiker’s paradise rewarding those who venture with heavenly views. There are 37 peaks around Seoul alone, the highest 836 metres.

Every South Korean season is packed with delightful surprises. The spring Sakura (cherry blossom) season spreads its pink blooms from Seoul in early April to Busan and Jeju Island in the south by the end of the month. Summer is sea, surf and sand. Autumn spreads hot reds, golds and yellows across the peninsula, while winter brings white snow skiing, ice-hiking and climbing, and trout fishing in half-frozen rivers.

There are 21 ski resorts dotted around South Korea. Most (and the best) sit within the Taebaek Mountain Range along the northeastern edge of the peninsula and where the PyeongChang 2018 Winter Olympics were held. If you don’t want to travel far or for convenience, Seoul is surrounded by five resorts all accessible by private and public buses from town. All the resorts are more affordable than their Japanese counterparts.

The country consists of nine provinces, and nearly half of its population of 52 million reside in seven major metropolitan cities: Seoul (11 million); Busan, the southern port and world’s largest harbour (3.5 million); the northern port and unique coastal areas of Incheon (3 million); Daegu, the self-proclaimed fashion, textile and electronics capital and home to Korean baseball (2.5 million); Daejeon, a university city (1.4 million); Gwangju, the 1980 birthplace of Korean democracy (1.4 million); and Ulsan, home to the Hyundai Motor Company, Munsu Football Stadium and the world’s largest shipyard (1.1 million).

More than half the population are Christians, and today, over seven million people openly practice Buddhism.

Gyeonggi-do 

Situated in the northwest of the country, this 10,000 sq km province is home to over half the country’s population. Divided almost in half by the east-west flowing Han River, Seoul is located roughly in the middle of the province (the word Gyeonggi means ‘area surrounding the capital’) with the country’s northern port of Incheon on its western coast. South Korea’s main airport, Incheon International Airport, is located on an island to the west of Incheon city.

Even though a thriving metropolis, it’s easy and relatively inexpensive to get around Seoul. With a little planning and perfect timing you can experience most of the five palaces and their activities (like Changing of the Guard), spend up big at the huge shopping centres, quietly brush-up on the country’s history at the various museums and cultural centres, stop at one of the many delicious, cheap and hearty street markets at mealtimes or take a relaxing stroll through the various parks outside of peak hour and wile away the days at a stream of spa and wellness treatment establishments.

There’s no shortage of 5-star dining experiences either. Seoul boasts 24 Michelin star restaurants! Seoul is undoubtedly the country’s primary tourist destination and you can read our guide to Seoul here.

Like Seoul, the DMZ at Paju, 30 kilometres north of the capital, is a high tourist area with many day tours to Camp Bonifas or Camp Greaves. The tours allow visitors time to discover the Dorasan Railway Station, Haemaru Village and Imjingak. You can also walk down the third tunnel in the region and spy on the military guards and villagers going about their daily life on the other side via a modern viewing platform with large telescopes at the Dora Observatory. It is best to take an organised tour and you are required to carry your passport.

Outside of the major tourist cities and areas of the province, the southern plains and northern mountain ranges of Gwangju and Charyeong boast an array of lakes, rivers, valleys, hiking trails and outstanding views. Even beautiful beaches and resorts abound a short distance from Incheon. So it’s easy to understand why most people don’t venture far from this province.

Gangwon-do

Occupying nearly 17,000 sq km in the northeast of the country, this predominantly mountainous province is home to the 1,500-metre-high historic Taebaek mountain range and four scenic national parks. The province became the centre of winter sports after hosting the 1999 Asian Winter Games, and the 2018 PyeongChang Winter Olympics, and will host the 2024 Youth Winter Olympics. Expect to meet many locals here as they also enjoy escaping to the region’s nature, along with the many laid-back coastal beach towns. Open year-round, the popular High1 Resort has something for everyone including skiing, trekking, golf courses and a casino.

The cave area in Daei-ri comprises seven caves but has only two open to the public -- Daegeumgul and Hwanseongul Caves -- and there is a monorail system for visitors. If you’re game you can walk Korea’s longest mountain pedestrian bridge, the Sogeumsan Suspension Bridge. In the Ganhyeon Tourist Area, this 200-metre long bridge is 100 metres above the ground offering expansive panoramic views of the area.

The Goseong DMZ eastern gateway tourist area is becoming more popular with its beach views, Korean War museum, Second Tunnel tourist site, Tunnel Four access, (the only one that can be reached by vehicle), the 300-person capacity Unification Observatory overlooking the Haegeumgang River and Maritime Museum, and Kim Il Sung’s Summerhouse at Hwajinpo Beach surrounded by pine forest.

Chuncheon is the province’s capital. As potatoes are the primary crop of the region, they feature predominantly in the local dishes, along with fiery fried chicken and raw fish dishes around the coastal towns.

Chungcheong-do (North and South)

South of Seoul this central-western province (often referred to as North and South Chungcheong) is a little over 15,000 sq km in size and its capital Daejeon is a major transportation junction between Seoul and Busan. Don’t let the country’s fifth-largest city fool you; there is plenty worth experiencing in and around Daejeon. As one of the oldest regions there are many beautiful temples and heritage buildings to explore and the pace is much slower than Korea’s larger cities.

With 17 universities and highlighted as an innovative science and technology city after hosting Expo ’93, Daejeon is often called Asia’s Silicon Valley. There are many museums and beautiful parks around the city that even the locals love visiting. These include the History, Currency and National Science Museums, Hanbit Tower (now an observatory in Expo Park), Astronaut Hall planetarium shows and the 37-hectare Hanbat Arboretum on the Gap River's south bank, connected by the futuristic Expo Bridge. At night, the bridge lights are magical.

Shopping here is enchanting, especially at Skyroad with a 214-metre LED canopy featuring colourful animations covering the pedestrian walkway between shops, restaurants, bars and karaoke spots. And don’t miss the tasty temptations at Sung Sim Dang bakery. Locals travel miles to stock-up their larders! Jungang Market is aimed at locals and is not touristy but well-worth walking through as it stretches from the central railway station to the Daejeonchon River.

With Gangwon’s mountains dominating the western side, the flatter western region of the province is highly agricultural, growing most of the country’s fruits and vegetables. Korea’s only winery, Wine Korea at Chateau Mani in Yeongdong is here. Their wines are produced from table grapes and other fruits and vegetables.

The surrounding mountains offer an abundance of picnic spots, walking and hiking trails. Daedunsan Mountain has a Cloud Bridge, a cable car if you don’t want to walk to the top and ziplines for a quicker descent. The Yuseong hot spring in Daejeon is popular with young and old, and the perfect place to soothe those weary tourist bones. 

Jeolla-do (North and South)

Encompassing the south-west and southern tip of the Korean Peninsula, the north and south Jeolla provinces have a total area of around 20,000 sq km. Only 80 of the 105 islands off the north’s western coast are inhabited; while the 6100-kilometre southern coastline and Yeosu Peninsula are surrounded by around 2000 islands with only a quarter inhabited. Jeonju is the north’s capital and Namak in Muan County is the south’s, but only since 2005. The south’s previous capital, Gwangu, is now designated a Special City.

Despite its picturesque coastline, picturesque Noryung and Sobaek mountain ranges, ancient history and culture, abundance of fresh fruit (it’s the home of the Naju pear), vegetables and seafood (including hwoe, blue crabs, abalone and loach) this province is not renowned for tourism. But this little gem, only a three-hour drive south of Incheon International Airport, is worth at least a week to absorb its natural surrounds, temples, bamboo gardens, merchant goods from woodware and ceramics to jewellery, exquisite foods, unique festivals and the leisurely vibes of the locals.

Sleep in a traditional Korean wooden hanok hut in Namwon at the luxurious Namwonyechon hotel, where the bed comprises an array of fluffy blankets piled high on a heated floor. Like a hot stone massage, it’s ideal for soothing aching back muscles.

See Korea’s largest green tea plantation at Boseong. Picking the hillside plantations occurs in April and August. Stroll around Korea’s only wetland, Suncheonman, with over 50 themed gardens. The country’s most southern Buddhist Temple, Mihwangsa, is also the beginning of the 17.7km Dalmagodo Trail used by locals and monks travelling to the town market or the other 12 temples that dot the Dalmasan Mountain.

Check out the many historic Japanese buildings around Gunsan dating back to their occupation. A must-see is Gunsan’s Gyeongam-dong Railway Village (trains ceased in 2008). Discover a treasure trove of everything old-school, from renting Korean school uniforms, vintage toys, lolly shops to grilling candy on portable stoves beside the railway track, dining in a third-grade classroom complete with school furniture and blackboard.

Also in Gunsan you’ll find Korea’s oldest bakery, Lee Sung Dang, opened in 1945 and still famous for its yummy pat ppang buns (soft bread stuffed with sweet mushy red bean paste).

Discover more than 100 years of history at Yangnim-dong History and Cultural Village and home of many Korean artists and reformers. Visit the largest Korean Hanok Village at Jeonju with over 700 traditional houses and the 1410 Gyeonggijeon Shrine.

Travel on a steam train along tranquil Seomjingang River between Gokseong and Gajeong stations, only 10 km apart, or ride a rail bike. There are a variety of festivals from the Hampyeong Butterfly and Ganglin Caledon Pottery festivals to the three-day Sunchang Fermented Food Festival in autumn (the birthplace of hot pepper paste). Enjoy everything from salty fermented fish, other seafood, and a variety of vegetables while watching the Joseon Dynasty costumed parade.

Find and feast on the freshest seafood on Wando Island from bream, mackerel, tongue, to scorpionfish and abalone. Learn about seaweed and abalone farming. Day trips and many other islands can also be reached from Wando, including a ferry to Jeju. If you fancy learning more about abalone or Naju pear farming, informative and interesting tours can be booked through major travel agents. Or perhaps you’re a fan of Netflix’s Chef’s Table? Well stay at Baekyangsa Temple, home of the Korean nun-chef Jeong Kwan and learn from her how to cook her Korean temple food.

Gyeongsang-do (North and South)

Occupying the southeast section of the Korean Peninsula, Gyeongsang-do also has north and south divisions known as Gyeongbuk and Gyeongnam. The province has three major cities — Busan, Ulsan and Daegu (Gyeongbuk’s provincial capital). Changwon, west of Busan is Gyeongnam’s provincial capital and also famed for its cherry blossoms and Yongji Lake light shows.

Gyeongsang-do is the largest province in South Korea at nearly 30,000 sq km with vast eastern beaches and the spectacular Sobaek and Taebaek Mountains at its back. With 80 per cent of the land area undeveloped, it provides a destination of majestic lakes, striking rock formations and stunning waterfalls to be explored via exhilarating walking trails. Junam Wetland is a birdwatchers’ delight and home to many migratory birds. Or see the iridescent summer fireflies at Upo Wetlands further north.

Around Bugok discover soothing spa resorts and hot springs. As the birthplace of the Kingdom of Silla, around a fifth of Korea’s cultural assets are here. The most mysterious natural attraction is Eoreumgol Valley (Ice Valley), a UNESCO Global Geopark, where freezing underground air creates ice-covered walls through the valley from March and all through summer when surrounding regions are sweltering. Hikers and ice-wall climbers abound with the Ice Climbing World Cup held here annually.

Busan, Korea’s second-largest city and an important southern port, attracts the most tourists (behind Seoul) along with many cruise ships. It also hosts an annual Film Festival, equivalent to the Cannes Film Festival, in October.

Like Seoul, Busan is easy and safe to walk around. Excellent bus and subway transportation services allow you to discover its vast historical and cultural sites, natural attractions, exciting shopping areas, fabulous food markets, exotic restaurants, laid-back cafes and sun-soaked beaches with ease. There’s a multitude of fast or slow-paced activity for the most ardent adventurer — even cooking classes and naked spas!

Busan has the cutest campground (called ‘The Moving’) with a pop-up beach bar, retro caravans and idyllic sea views. A variety of English speaking tours operate all-year-round in and around the city and along the north and south coasts that encompass other cities, beaches, temples, farms and nature parks, providing excellent insight to the region, its past and people.

Jeju-do

South Korea’s largest island of 1,849 square kilometres is Jeju, situated 90 kilometres from the southern tip of the Korean Peninsula. South Korea’s highest mountain, the dormant volcano, Hallasan, is here. The crater peak walk, volcanic rock formations and lava tubes are popular tourist attractions. Known as the Island of the Gods, Jeju-do is a self-governing province. Jeju City is its capital while Seogwipo is its main coastal tourist town.

Jeju is renowned for its eco-tourism and features several UNESCO natural heritage sites, vast caves, lush forests, refreshing waterfalls, breathtaking coastlines, scenic walking trails and white sandy beaches. Beach resorts are bustling in summer even though the island’s temperatures only average 11.7 degrees Celsius year-round.

With minimal agriculture (apart from hallabong oranges, beans and millet) on the island Haenyeo women dive up to 20 metres to bring home abalone, clams, squid, octopus and prized seaweed. You are guaranteed the freshest of seafood on the island. Check out the complete range at the huge Dongmun Market. If you want to taste some real local delights, try Galchi Jorim (hairtail fish soup) and Jeonbokjuk (abalone and rice porridge).

Most people catch ferries from the mainland or fly into Jeju. Travelling around the island is mostly by bus or taxi, but despite the extent of tourism here, English is not widely spoken. Car hire is available, for which you will need an international driving licence. 

Best months to visit South Korea

Korea has four seasons so the best time to travel depends on whether you are looking for a summer holiday on the beach, a sightseeing or hiking holiday (spring and autumn are the best seasons for those) or a winter holiday to hit the ski slopes. But try to avoid the Korean Lunar New Year holiday known as Seollal. It’s a three-day holiday around the last week of January or first two weeks of February when almost everyone in South Korea is travelling, and prices for everything skyrockets. The price of air tickets in and out of South Korea around Seollal is always high because many expatriate Koreans return home for that holiday.

The most comfortable months for sightseeing and hiking are late March to early June and September to early November. July and August are the wettest months and can be hot and humid. Mid-December to mid-February is the coldest and driest time of the year in South Korea so the best time to go if you are looking for a holiday in the snow.

Currency and exchange rates

The South Korean won (abbreviated as KRW) has been relatively stable over the past 10 years at around 1,200 KRW to the US dollar. Notes are issued in denominations of 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000 and 50,000 won. There are also coins for 10, 50, 100 and 500 won. There is talk of phasing coins out completely in South Korea because most people use stored value cards for small transactions.

Exchanging money is easy in South Korea as most cities have exchange kiosks that accept all major currencies. But be aware that exchange rates can vary a lot between them, so if you are exchanging a large amount it’s advisable to shop around a bit. There are ATMs all over South Korea so you can draw out cash from those as an alternative.

In South Korea, tipping is not expected, but if you feel the service is good then it’s much appreciated.

Transport

Travelling around South Korea is safe and easy with an extensive and modern network of railways, highways, bus, air and ferry routes criss-crossing the country. All public transport is clean and staff are friendly and helpful. The cheapest and easiest option is the Korail train system, with the KTX express and ITX Saemaeul or slower all-stops Mugunghwa trains. You can travel by KTX train from Seoul to Busan in three hours, that’s including a few stops along the way!

While all Koreans are taught English at school, most are shy to speak. If you’re not confident you can pre-purchase tickets online as the site converts to English. For multiple trips a Korail Pass is more economical.

Signage and announcements on most trains and subways is in both Korean and English. Buses are different with announcements only in Korean. It’s a good idea upon boarding to show the driver where you want to go and then they will let you know when your stop is coming up.

For bus and subway travel in any of the major cities purchase a T-money card at a convenience store and load money on to it, and then tap it when entering and leaving a bus or metro station. Unlike other transport cards T-money can also be used at some pay phones, vending machines, grocery, book and department stores.

Taxis in Korean cities are inexpensive, clean and safe and can be hailed. Beware though, most drivers don’t speak English (except those operating at major airports) so ensure you have your destination written in Korean to hand to the driver.

South Korea has 15 airports. Seoul has two, with one in each other major centre including one on Jeju Island. Most major airlines or their affiliates fly into South Korea via Incheon International Airport, 48 kilometres west of Seoul. The Airport Railroad Express (AREX) and KTX operate fast and efficient services from both Terminal 1 and Terminal 2 stations between the airport and Seoul. A free airport shuttle bus operates every five minutes between the terminals, stopping at the Grand Hyatt Incheon Hotel.

Electricity

220 volts. Power plugs are C and F with two round pins (similar to most European countries).

Header image: © Maxim Tupikov