Some 12 million tourists visit Phuket each year — the most  visited island in Thailand. Those from Europe come primarily for the sunshine and beaches.  Whilst its tropical monsoonal climate is one of its attractions — warm all year round with a dry season from December through March — it does mean that during the monsoon season, from mid-May to October, there are going to be wet days.

Even though there will be wet weather during those months, there is still plenty to see and do in Thailand’s ‘Pearl of the South’. Phuket is rarely impacted by typhoons, and for most days in the wet season the rain is intermittent, so getting around is not that difficult. Even on days when there is heavy rain, there are many indoor options.

Before we list some of things you can do in wet weather, let’s first look at the big picture details on Phuket. Especially relevant if you have not visited before.

Located on the west coast of the Thai-Malaysian peninsula on the Andaman Sea, Phuket Island is about 50 km long and 20 km wide. At the northern tip of the island it is connected to the mainland by the Sarasin Bridge. At 543 square kilometres, it is Thailand’s biggest island. With some 30+ beaches and 32 smaller islands off its coast, the Phuket region personifies the Thai tropical island paradise people often dream of.

Around 70 percent of the island is covered by mountains, with several creeks and cascades snaking their way down through the hills and plains. The west coast is the base for most visitors with its diverse selection of white sandy beaches, aquamarine waters, and abundance of accommodation and entertainment options. Phuket has its own international airport.

Historically, tin and rubber were how Phuket derived its wealth. Situated on one of the major trading routes between India and China, it was frequently mentioned in the ships’ logs of Portuguese, French, Dutch, and English traders. The region now derives much of its income from tourism. However, there is still some farming of rubber, palm oil and small crops. 

Old Phuket Town

Old Phuket Town is the historical town forming part of Phuket City and one of the oldest towns in Thailand. Phuket Town's old buildings represent its former prosperity, and over the last 10 years there has been a move to restore them to their former glory. The architectural style, called ‘Sino-Portuguese’, is European mixed with Chinese. Construction occurred in the late 19th century and early 20th century when tin mining was an important Phuket industry.

‘Old Town Phuket’ is a 2.7 sq km area covering a total of 10 streets within Old Phuket Town that is studded with heritage buildings. In September 2019, the Fine Arts Department of Thailand’s Ministry of Culture announced they were working with Phuket provincial authorities to prepare a proposal to the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) for ‘Old Town Phuket’ be listed as a World Heritage Site.

The main street is Thalang Road, and other key roads are Phang Nga, Krabi, Dibuk, and Yoawarat. Many old and restored buildings have been converted into shops, hotels, restaurants and museums. Thalang Road was the first of the Old Town streets to allow the intricate century-old architecture to shine through by burying its unsightly power cables.

Phuket has a large ethnic Chinese community, so a visit to the Thai Hua Museum is recommended if you would like to learn more about the journey of these migrants. We recommend you take the time to explore the streets by both day and by night and see how this historical centre of Phuket is coming back to life. It’s an activity that can be easily accomplished in wet weather with the assistance of an umbrella.

Lard Yai Sunday Street Market

Thalang Road in the middle of Old Phuket Town is closed to traffic every Sunday, and the Lard Yai Market takes over the street. Activities kick off from 4 pm and run through to 10 pm. Launched by culture preservation-minded locals in 2013, vendors set up shop all along the length of the road, creating a walking street.  The adjacent Soi Romanee, a former red-light street, has turned pastel-toned and is also closed off to traffic, though no vendors are found along this narrow street.

Items for sale are mostly local Phuket products that are distinct from the usual souvenirs seen at the more tourist-oriented markets. To promote clean and green living, the market organisers have prohibited the use of styrofoam packaging. Drinking alcohol and smoking are not allowed on the market street, though there are several bars and cafes in the shophouses lining the road that provide these opportunities.  Pleasingly, counterfeit brands are also banned, so you’ll have to go elsewhere for those ‘Chanel’ handbags and ‘Rolex’ watches.

Food stalls offering almost anything you would expect are dotted along the street with tempting treats sufficient to satisfy the hungriest of market-goers. A visit to the Lard Yai Sunday Street Market is another activity that can be undertaken in wet weather, and is worthy of adding to your 'must-do' list when coming to Phuket.

Trickeye Museum

For days when the rain may be heavy and you’d prefer to stay undercover, the Trickeye museum is an excellent option.  This interactive museum is designed to stimulate your creativity and ingenuity by using the art technique Trompe l'oeil. This technique uses realistic imagery to create optical illusions that the depicted objects exist in three dimensions.  

At the Trickeye museum, you can enter the picture, including various masterpieces, and become a part of the picture yourself. It’s a fantastic way to have a whole bunch of fun while whiling away a few hours on rainy days.

Chalong Bay Rum

Another option for those who don’t mind the occasional tipple is the Chalong Bay rum distillery. They have distillery tours which start with a Mojito (rum cocktail) and end with tastings of the various rum blends — who can resist such an offering for a mere THB450?

We found their simple 30-minute tour informative, and the knowledge and enthusiasm of the English-speaking Thai guide was admirable. The rum itself could easily take pride of place on your home bar. It also puts the big-name brands often associated with white rum to shame with its refinement and purity of taste. Another 'must-do' on rainy days for anybody who enjoys rum.

Cooking Schools

If you want to explore Thai cooking, a cooking class may be a great wet weather option too. After 3-4 hours of toiling in the kitchen under the expert tutorage of a Thai chef, you feast on the fruits of your labour with the other participants.

Some cooking classes also include a trip to a local Thai market to get the ingredients to be used in the class. Phuket offers many cooking classes, and one of the most renowned is the Blue Elephant, which is also in Bangkok.

Beaches, Bays & Natural Beauty

If you have your own car (or alternatively you can hire one with a driver), you can take a day trip around the island to see its natural beauty. The beaches won’t be seen in their most sun-drenched and glorious light, but are still very impressive even in overcast weather.

Driving south from Patong, the centre of the tourist zone on the west coast, you’ll pass Karon and Kata beaches which are quite alluring on brighter days. But even on cloudy days you may be surprised how many holiday-makers are still sunbathing on the beaches.

The winding roads connecting each beach and bay present picturesque ocean views. Stopping at a few of the viewpoints dotted along the way will give you a sense of the island's natural beauty.  

On the upper west coast near the airport, Nai Thon and Nai Yang beaches are well worth the drive. With 22 public and resort occupied beaches along the west coast, it certainly offers a vast diversity. Along the southern coastline, Rawai Beach with its many seafood eateries is a good spot to stop for lunch. It’s a wide well-protected beach from where you can charter boats to go island hopping.

Rang Hill Viewpoint

Over towards the east coast, Rang Hill is the second-highest viewpoint on Phuket island and even on cloudy days offers great district views over Phuket. As well as the viewing platforms, there are a couple of cafes/restaurants cleverly situated to take advantage of the sights. A rotunda with a collection of historical information sits on the southern side of the hill-top. Monkeys also cohabitate the park, while the trees provide a cooling respite.

Like most houses and businesses in Thailand, the cafes/restaurants on Rang Hill have spirit houses situated near their entrances. Still a very active aspect of Thai society, it is typical for family members, employees or caretakers to place daily offerings of items like fried rice, fruits, flowers and small bottles of coloured drinks at the entrance of the small spirit houses. Incense will also be lit to help transport the wishes for the protection and well-being of the family or businesses to the heavens.

It was here at Rang Hill that I saw for the first time, monkeys raiding these spirit houses for plunder. Not the fruit or other tasty offerings, but the bottles of red soda pop so respectfully offered to the spirits.  On arrival at Rang Hill, a monkey scampered across the carpark with a bottle of red soda pop -- at the time I thought this unusual. A little later, while enjoying an iced coffee, I captured some images of other red soda pop obsessed monkeys.

And finally, here are two festivals that occur annually and fall during Phuket’s wet season. Both have reputations of ‘must-do’ if venturing to Phuket at this time of year:

Hungry Ghost Festival

The Ghost (or Hungry Ghost) Festival is a traditional Buddhist and Taoist festival. Celebrated across Southeast Asia, it is significant for those of ethnic Chinese ancestry. In Phuket, it is better known as the Por Tor Festival.

For Phuket’s Thai-Chinese community, ghostly ancestors remain as much part of a family’s daily life as its living relatives. And these ghosts can be haunted by hunger. So, each year, on the 15th day of the seventh waxing moon on the Chinese calendar (usually late August or early September), it’s believed that the gates of hell open giving these starving spirits a chance to revisit their families and enjoy a feast.

On Phuket, festival activities centre around the Por Tor Gong shrine, which is dedicated to the Por Tor god, the king of hell. Festivities happen across the remainder of the month. Expect an abundance of exciting and colourfully decorated activities, including a traditional merit-making ceremony, lion dances, magic shows, live concerts, cabaret shows and many more stage shows. And of course, plenty of local food stands where you can sample Chinese-influenced local food. Keep a lookout for the red ceremonial cake in the shape of turtles which are unique to Phuket.  

Phuket Vegetarian Festival

One of the most famous in Thailand, the Phuket Vegetarian (or Nine Emperor Gods) Festival usually runs for the first nine or ten days of the ninth lunar month according to the Chinese lunar calendar. Typically, September – October.

Its history can be traced back 150 years to the Chinese tin miners working on the island. Over the years, this Taoist festival has become an international drawcard.

The lively parades, the ear-shattering fireworks, as well as the gut-wrenching self-mutilation performed by scores of possessed Ma Song, are all familiar sights of the vegetarian festival. Expect also an abundance of stalls offering Thai-Chinese vegetarian foods.

Ma Song are devotees whom the gods enter during the festival. They manifest supernatural powers and perform self-torture to shift evil from individuals onto themselves, and to bring the community good luck. The Ma Song is both an amazing and (at least for some) an off-putting aspect of this festival.

Header image: © Patryk Kosminder