The beauty of Bali is without question; it is a timeless culture, steeped in the mysticism of Hinduism, a religion where temples and daily offerings are a reminder of the inherent spirituality of the Balinese. It is a culture with rice fields over a thousand years old still being tended according to ancient farming practices. It is an island of contrasts – of thriving rain forests, active volcanoes, surfing beaches, traditional villages, ancient and elaborate temples, the cultural drama of art, dance and music and warm and welcoming people. 

However, Bali is under pressure. Concerns have been raised over many years of the impact of mass tourism, over consumption, clogged road networks, diminishing rice fields, water shortages and the damage to the oceans through plastics pollution. The issues are complex and have many factors contributing to the difficulties. The accumulation of these problems, which have been well documented, are contributing to the loss of the essence of Bali and destroying the fragile and vulnerable beauty of the island.

But, there is nothing like a pandemic to stop us in our tracks, to take stock of where we are heading and to reflect on how the impact of such a disease will determine a new roadmap for our future. Such is the case for Bali. Despite dire predictions, it has not emerged as one of the coronavirus hotspots as disease experts had envisaged and so far, has one of the lowest fatality rates in Indonesia.

Even so, results from the Indonesian Tourist Industry Association (GIPI) indicate a drop in foreign visitors of over 90 percent since April causing a devastating effect on all aspects of the Balinese economy. The Association of Indonesian Tour and Travel Agencies (ASITA) in Bali are appealing to the government to implement the proposed ‘new normal’ stipulations so that the island can once again welcome tourists.

The Bali Governor, Wayan Koster, says the  ‘new normal’ should not be seen as going back to life as usual, but to recognize that the new protocols which include social distancing, people using masks, thorough hand washing, and no crowds, will be strictly enforced. However, Bali’s Deputy Governor, Tjokorda Oka Artha, in an interview in May, says he will not be referring to the new protocols  as the ‘new normal’ instead he will be calling it a ‘new era for Bali’ “which will change the paradigm of tourism in the future”. But what will this new future look like for the Balinese and for tourists?

Indonesia’s Ministry of Tourism and Creative Economy (MTCE) in collaboration with the Ministry of Health have selected Bali to become the pilot project for the CHS (Cleanliness, Health and Safety) Programme which will begin in Nusa Dua and is intended to not only support the Balinese but to reassure and encourage tourists to return to the island.

Consisting of three concepts, the CHS program aims to address ‘Clean’ through freedom from rubbish, pathogenic bacteria and dangerous chemicals. ‘Health’ includes rules and regulations aimed at  prevention, care, monitoring and control while ‘Safety’ will include environmental quality through the management, protection and vigilance of hazards, pollution and threats to the community and visitors. Good waste management policies are also expected to be implemented. Results from this trial will determine future directions as sustainable tourism development is the aim of the CHS programme.

Currently the government is working in a number of areas to address some of the problems like regular beach clean-ups and charging fees for the use of plastic bags. However, as visitors to Bali, some of the following suggestions will assist the Balinese and their communities to address the issues of sustainable tourism.

Accommodation

The style of accommodation we choose can make a difference as it is well known that resorts, villas and large hotels contribute to significant amounts of water consumption with as much as 65% of ground water and up to 3,000 litres of water a day being consumed by the tourism industry thus adding to Bali’s water crisis. Options for alternative accommodation are to choose eco friendly resorts or home stays.

Eco friendly resorts, many of which are built from bamboo and recycled timber, aim to educate tourists and local communities through sustainable living practices such as the availability of filtered water, the use of organic fruit and vegetable produce from their own gardens, and the importance of biodegradable natural soaps, shampoos and eco toilets to reduce water contamination and recycled waste management.

Another option is a home stay. These originally began in Ubud in the 1930s when foreign painters visiting Ubud for arts and cultural events found there was a lack of accommodation. Some were able to stay in the king’s palace although accommodation was limited, so the Balinese opened their homes and invited the visiting foreigners to stay. It was the beginning of what has become known as the sharing economy which has empowered communities through regenerating neighbourhoods, and creating employment thus supporting their economies. Research suggests that apart from the cost factor, millennials to seniors prefer to stay in home stays to experience life in local communities.

On our first trip to Bali some years ago, we arrived in Ubud in the early afternoon to our home stay accommodation which was situated on the edge of a rice field. I had a heavy cold and was exhausted. In the room of our accommodation I lay on a day bed strategically placed by a large viewing window overlooking the rice fields below. Stretching out towards the Monkey Forest was a sea of green.

Overhead, bloated, voluminous thunder clouds began to roll across a leaden sky. The anger of the heavens and the splendor of those rice fields was a scene like no other. “Bring me here to die and place me at this window,” I say somewhat dramatically to my amused family. It was an overblown statement for someone who never wanted to go to Bali. It is also the day I fell in love with Bali.

As older travellers, we have returned to Bali many times and have always stayed in home stays in local communities, sometimes by the sea, other times in the rice fields. Home stays are generally quieter with no crowds; it is a more authentic cultural experience to live with the locals, to be included and cared for like a family member. It is a wonderful way to appreciate the Balinese way of life.  There is something reassuring knowing that your host family will have a driver to collect you from the airport, and that they will be waiting to welcome you.

Home stay families will connect you with local people who can take you on walking tours or scenic tours; they will suggest the best cafes to eat at and the best local sites to visit. There are many websites such as Booking.com, Expedia, Airbnb, and Trip Advisor that have a range of home stays available.

Plastics

Reducing the use of plastic in all forms is a must. In 2018 a ban was placed on plastic straws, polystyrene and plastic bags in an attempt to address a significant crisis — so forget plastics. We were impressed with alternative bamboo cutlery so much so that we re-used what we had been given a number of times before we disposed of them. When buying, choose items that are not wrapped in plastic if possible and take your own shopping bags. Water is not safe to drink in Bali (or for cleaning teeth) so take your own reusable water bottle and refill from drinking filters or buy a large bottle of water to cut down on the use of smaller plastic bottles.

Buy local

Stay local and buy local by supporting local businesses and tour operators. Two elaborately hand- carved masks are a constant reminder of time spent in Bali as is a gift of handmade silver jewellery. There are many artisans creating handbags, home wares, artifacts, and clothing lines often supported by the ethical and fair trade organizations who aim to empower and ensure a just outcome for workers.

Threads of Life in Ubud, is one such company that sells high quality, beautifully made textiles and baskets produced by weavers across Indonesia. Support for these communities of weavers develops their economy while enabling them to create and preserve sustainable management of their resources.

And finally, as you pack to leave, don’t leave anything behind. Sustainable tourism requires that we tread lightly, take responsibility and support the initiatives of the community to ensure that we are part of the solution to maintain an environment which is ecological sound for generations to come.

Header image: © Vin Coffey