This article was published prior to the brutal military coup in February 2021. The country is still in a state of armed conflict and civil unrest. It is currently not safe to travel to Myanmar. Foreigners have been arbitrarily detained by the military dictatorship and activists have been executed.

For many older travellers, Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) is the last country they will have visited in Southeast Asia because in the years that they may have been most actively travelling in the region (the 70s and 80s), Myanmar was off-limits to foreign tourists. It was only in 1992 that the military junta opened its borders to international leisure travellers.

These days Myanmar attracts more than four million tourists a year. There are still many who advocate boycotting Myanmar because of its human rights violations, but those voices have been less vocal since the installation of a quasi-civilian government in 2015. Myanmar has slowly opened up to the world in the past 25 years, and tourism has been its fastest growing industry.

It is little wonder that so many people are visiting Myanmar these days. It’s not just older travellers who couldn’t visit during their backpacking days, but younger travellers as well seeking adventure and thrills. But Myanmar is especially appealing to older travellers because of the slow pace of life, and its many fascinating historical and cultural attractions.

Many governments issue travel warnings about Myanmar because there are active armed conflicts in many areas, but these are primarily confined to Rakhine, Chin and Kachin states, and northern Shan state, which are well away from the main tourist destinations. Just remember never to take photographs of any military personnel or installations (which is illegal) and you should be fine.

Yangon

The capital Yangon (formerly known as Rangoon) is where most travellers enter the country. Many spend only a night or two there en route to more popular destinations like Bagan or Inle Lake, but it’s worth setting aside at least two days to explore the city. Yangon is a mixture of old colonial buildings, some in disrepair and some renovated to their former glory, and modern high rises and new shopping malls that are slowly changing the look of the skyline.

The Shwedagon Pagoda on Singuttara Hill near the centre of the city still dominates the skyline and is where most visitors head on their first day in the city. It is one of the oldest and most important Buddhist stupas in the world. Dawn and dusk are the best times to visit to soak up the atmosphere of this breathtakingly beautiful monument as devotees walk around the gold-plated main stupa which is over 100 metres high.

Within walking distance of the Shwedagon Pagoda is Kandawgyi Lake, another spot where travellers can retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city. The lake is home to the Karaweik Palace which is modelled on the old royal barges and looks like it is floating on the lake. It is a restaurant and function centre that serves traditional Myanmar food and stages cultural shows for tourists in the evening. There is a boardwalk around the lake but many sections are undergoing repairs.

Many older travellers say the best part of a visit to Yangon, aside from the Shwedagon Pagoda, is exploring downtown on foot and checking out the art and antique shops, restaurants and coffee/tea shops. The Bogyoke Market is the best place to shop for jewellery and handicrafts. History buffs should not miss the excellent National Museum and smaller Bogyoke Aung San Museum, and perhaps consider staying in one of the old colonial hotels like the Strand Hotel to soak up the atmosphere of the colonial days.

Bagan

Apart from the Shwedagon Pagoda, the most iconic image of Myanmar is undoubtedly the sight of dozens of hot air balloons drifting over early morning mists around the 1,000 or so stupas that are spread out across the Bagan plains. With or without the balloons, the incredible Bagan plains have been the country’s major attraction to overseas travellers for the past 25 years.

There are thousands of other small temples and religious monuments within the 100 square kilometres area of the plains, and 50 km to the southeast is Mount Popa, where the picturesque Taung Kalat monastery sits atop an almost sheer-sided volcanic plug with 777 steps providing access to the monastery.

Bagan was the capital of a regional empire between the 11th and 13th centuries. Today its old town and archeological zone is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as well as being one of the two most popular hot air ballooning destinations in Asia (the other being Cappadocia, Turkey). However, in Bagan the balloons only operate from October to April because it’s not safe to fly during the monsoon season.

The best way to get around Bagan is on an electric bike. Although tens of thousands of visitors descend on Bagan every year, an e-bike will take you to temples away from the crowds where you can enjoy sunrise or sunset views of the landscape without other people around. There are some excellent restaurants in New Bagan, and along the road northeast from Old Bagan that follows the Irrawaddy River, serving both local and international food.

Inle Lake

Although Inle Lake is somewhat off the beaten track, for older travellers it’s well worth including on a Myanmar itinerary because it’s one of the quietest and most relaxing parts of the country to visit. Access is via regular jet flights from either Yangon or Mandalay to Heho airport, and there are several airlines also offering direct ATR-72 flights from Bagan.  Heho airport is about 45 minutes from Nyaung Shwe at the northern end of Inle Lake. It’s also possible to hire a car with driver or take a van from Bagan to Inle Lake, but it takes a whole day.

There is a wide range of accommodation in and around Nyaung Shwe and in the hinterland of the lake ranging from budget guest houses to five-star resorts. All of these places can organise boat trips on the lake where you can visit water villages on stilts and floating gardens. Another option is to hire a bike (many hotels provide them free for their guests) and explore the villages, monasteries and temples around the lake on your own.

Lake Inle is a haven for bird watchers, especially in December and January when many different species migrate to the lake. And for wine lovers there is a winery just outside Nyaung Shwe which is reputed to produce Myanmar’s best wines. Their restaurant has a panoramic view of the lake. Other leisure options around the lake include horse riding and cooking classes.

As with the other destinations popular with international travellers, Nyaung Shwe and Inle Lake offer a wide range of restaurants serving both local and international food. The local food here is Shan cuisine which is famous for its noodles, which are eaten all over Myanmar. Many travellers rate Inle Lake as one of the best culinary destinations in Southeast Asia.

Mandalay

The former royal capital of Mandalay is Myanmar’s second largest city and has more historic buildings than Yangon, although many have been destroyed by fire over the years and by Allied bombing during World War II when the Japanese occupied the city. The Mandalay Palace was one such casualty of the war but was rebuilt in the 1990s. However, there are still many original monasteries and temples in and around Mandalay that those interested in the history of Burma will find well worth visiting.

Amarapura, another ancient royal capital, on the southern side of Mandalay is worth a half day visit, if only to see the famed U Bein Bridge which is the longest wooden footbridge in the world. Sunset is the best time to visit but you’ll need to take a boat out onto Taungthaman Lake to take the type of silhouette photos of the bridge that you see in the tourist brochures. Whilst waiting for the sunset, you can take a walk across the bridge or visit the nearby Kyauktaqgyi Pagoda which is an impressive white and gold Buddhist temple built in 1847.

Nearly half of the population of Mandalay is made up of Chinese and Indian immigrants, so the cuisine here is somewhat different to other parts of Myanmar. You’ll find plenty of restaurants serving authentic food from China and India as well as dishes that are a fusion of local and imported cuisines. The Burmese curry that is served in Mandalay is a unique blend of Indian and Chinese flavours.

If you are looking for some exercise whilst in Mandalay, then consider walking up Mandalay Hill. It’s an interesting experience because you have to do it in bare feet and from the top you’ll have a good view over the city.  Older travellers who are not that fit should allow two hours so they can rest at some of the drink stalls along the way. Alternatively you can take a taxi to the top and walk down – but bring a bag for your shoes.

Best months to visit Myanmar

As with most tropical countries, the best time to travel is the dry season, which in Myanmar is from late October to early May. However, March to May are very hot in most of the country, so are not the best months for travel. November to February are therefore the best months to visit. The north of the country is much cooler, especially in the mountains, as the Tropic of Capricorn passes through Myanmar just north of Mandalay, but these are regions that are not safe for tourists.

Yangon can be very hot and humid all year round, so those who have difficulty coping with humidity would be best to plan a visit for December or January, which are the coolest months. Bagan has a much drier climate than Yangon, as does Mandalay. Inle Lake’s annual rainfall is a little less than Yangon, and it is about 5°C cooler throughout the year because of its elevation on the Shan plateau.

For those who like to travel off-season to avoid the crowds, June to October are reasonable travel months for Bagan and Mandalay if you don’t mind missing the hot air ballooning, but you’ll find it very wet in Yangon, and fairly wet around Inle Lake which would restrict outdoor activities. Parts of Yangon can suffer flooding in those months.

The other factor to consider when travelling in Myanmar is the Buddhist holiday calendar. When there are Buddhist holidays, often many businesses will be closed and domestic flights around the country may be hard to book. So remember to check those out when planning a Myanmar itinerary.

Currency and exchange rates

The currency of Myanmar is called the Burmese kyat which is designated by the letter ‘K’. Many hotels and some other tourist establishments advertise their prices in US dollars, but you can almost always pay in local currency. However, the US dollar to kyat exchange rate used by these places is often not very good, so where you have the opportunity, it may be cheaper paying in US dollars. But note they will only accept brand new dollar bills – preferably $100 bills. If they have any creases or marks, it is unlikely they will be accepted.

For the past five years the official exchange rate has varied between 1200 and 1600 kyat to the dollar. It’s currently sitting around the middle of that range. There are plenty of currency exchange shops in most tourist destinations and their rates are usually better than banks or airport currency desks. But do compare rates to get the best deals. The largest denomination note is K10,000, and you’ll need some smaller denomination notes for change, so you’ll be carrying around a thick wad of khat for most of your time in Myanmar.

Myanmar used to have a thriving black market for currency exchange, and prior to 2012, the first thing any tourist arriving in Yangon had to do was to find someone to exchange money on the black market, because the official currency exchange rate meant they would have been paying $30-40 for a bottle of water. Tourists huddled in back alleys counting wads of kyat was a common sight despite the practice being theoretically illegal.

The black market still exists today, but the financial advantage of changing money on the black market is considerably less, and it does leave travellers open to the possibility of scams such as receiving counterfeit kyat in exchange for their dollars. But if you do have some crisp new dollar bills, you may find a few shops or travel agents willing to give you a better than official exchange rate.

Credit cards are accepted in many hotels and some shops, but they are not as widely accepted as in other countries of Southeast Asia. There are ATMs in the major cities and tourist areas, and these provide a good fallback if you can’t exchange cash or use a credit card, but the withdrawal fees charged in Myanmar are high. Most money changers do accept other major currencies, but the rates won’t be as good as for the US dollar. And you’ll need notes of those currencies that are in good condition too.

Header image: © Sasin Tipchai