One of the most under-rated countries in Asia for adventurous, independent travellers is Pakistan. It’s a country with an immense wealth of history, fascinating cultures, and some outstanding mountain scenery for those who enjoy trekking and getting away from tourist crowds. But few people consider traveling there because it’s considered unsafe.

Most governments advise against travel to Pakistan citing threats of terrorism, political instability, occasional kidnappings, and violence. In any event, many areas of the country are off-limits to foreigners for security reasons, and some regions require special permits to visit. It’s not a destination for the faint-hearted.

There are some experienced travel bloggers who vehemently disagree with the government warnings and claim that Pakistan is a safe country to visit. One young female British blogger who has travelled for over a year in Pakistan maintains that most of the country is safe because security forces simply won’t allow foreigners to go to places that are unsafe.

In my view, the true situation lies somewhere between those opposing points of view. For older solo travellers who like to seek out new destinations where there are no ‘ordinary’ tourists or tour groups around, Pakistan is a country well worth considering for those who regard themselves as adventure travellers. 

The territory of Gilgit-Baltistan to the north of the capital Islamabad in northern Pakistan is home to some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in Asia. The Hunza Valley and Fairy Meadows are two picturesque valleys that are popular with domestic tourists, and efforts are being made to promote these destinations to nature-loving international travellers.

For those who have not previously visited Pakistan but may be hesitant about heading straight into ‘unknown territory’, a good way to sample what the country has to offer is to organise a visit to the capital, Islamabad, which is where most tours to Gilgit-Baltistan (both private and group) commence.

Islamabad is easy to reach without having to fly on Pakistan International Airlines (which I do not recommend). There are direct flights from Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Doha on Emirates, Etihad, and Qatar Airways, as well as a direct flight (but several hours longer) from Bangkok with Thai Airways.

There is a good range of international standard hotels in Islamabad at reasonable prices to suit all budgets. It is not an expensive city to visit. Three days is enough to see all the sights in Islamabad and for you to investigate options for visiting Gilgit-Baltistan. Those options range from hiring a car with driver or joining a small group tour to Hunza.

Islamabad is a large, green, planned city that is home to a little over a million people. It partly wraps itself around the older city (and former capital) of Rawalpindi with a backdrop of the Margalla Hills to the north. Some people describe it as somewhat sterile, but its wide boulevards and open spaces means it doesn’t suffer the traffic congestion that is typical of other cities in Pakistan.

It is the most cosmopolitan of Pakistan’s cities and widely regarded as the country’s safest city due to the presence of security forces protecting politicians and government buildings. There is an extensive network of CCTV cameras installed throughout the city to monitor movements and prevent petty crime.

For spectacular views of the city and surrounding hills, head up to Pir Sohawa in the Margalla Hills. There are several restaurants and coffee shops there from which the whole city can be seen, and on a fine day, all the way to Rawalpindi as well. It’s also a great spot from which to enjoy the sunset.

Most visitors to Islamabad also take the opportunity to visit Rawalpindi as well because it is so close. Rawalpindi is more typical of other Pakistani cities. It’s not a city that anyone would label as ‘sterile’ and it’s definitely not as safe.

I once strolled through a market in Rawalpindi with my camera and got surrounded by about a dozen men. One of them angrily told me, in broken English, that cameras were not permitted in the market because there might be women in the market, and taking photographs of women was prohibited.

I hadn’t seen a single woman in the market, and I didn’t believe that such a prohibition existed, but rather than trying to argue with them, I just apologised and made a hasty retreat. Unless you have a Pakistani friend or guide with you, it’s probably best not to venture through the markets on your own.

However, if you want to see more than the modern buildings and monuments that Islamabad has to offer (bearing in mind that the city was only built in the 1960s), then a day trip to Rawalpindi with a guide is still worthwhile. Rawalpindi days back to the 11th century and has many interesting forts, temples, and stupas to see.

For those interested in military history, the Pakistan Army Museum in Rawalpindi is worth a visit. It has displays that cover the army’s activities from the Mughal Era right up to its present-day involvement in counter-terrorism activities. It’s a well-organised museum and has some equipment exhibits from both the first and second world wars.

The first stop on most sightseeing itineraries of Islamabad is usually the Faisal Mosque. It’s a structure that dominates the skyline as it’s on a slightly elevated site at the end of Faisal Avenue – one of the city’s main thoroughfares – with a backdrop of the green Margala Hills. It’s the largest mosque in Pakistan (accommodating over 70,000 worshippers in its main hall) and the sixth largest in the world.

What makes this mosque different to other mosques is its contemporary design. Rather than the typical dome shaped design, the architect designed it to resemble the form of a Bedouin tent, and the 80m-tall minarets are more typical of those seen in Turkey (reflecting the fact that the architect was Turkish).

If you are in a position to organise your own itinerary in Islamabad, it’s best to time your visit around sunset as that’s the perfect time of the day to get some impressive photographs. After the sun goes down, the artificial lighting of the mosque casts a warm glow around the building.

A better option for an early morning visit is the Pakistan Monument which is on a small hill at the edge of Shakarparian Park near the centre of the city. This monument attracts a lot of domestic tourists but if you get there early, you’ll often have the place to yourself to wander around and admire the impressive architecture.

The four large, cantilevered granite ‘petals’ of the monument represent the four main cultures of Pakistan, while the three smaller petals represent the minority cultures. The petals are decorated with carvings and murals of important places and events in Pakistan’s history.

Across from the Pakistan Monument, on the other side of a piazza called Freedom Plaza, is the Lok Virsa Heritage Museum. This is an excellent museum with both indoor and outdoor exhibits where you can learn about the history, cultures, and art of Pakistan. The indoor displays include recordings of traditional music from the different cultures of Pakistan.

On the other side of the Pakistan Monument, overlooking the big cloverleaf junction known as Zero Point (it’s the intersection of Faisal Avenue and the Srinagar Highway) is a viewpoint from which you can have stunning views of Islamabad on clear days. It’s open from 6am to 8pm.

For those interested in architecture, there are many public buildings in Islamabad that are worth a visit, but not all of them are open to the public. Some are only open on public holidays and special occasions, whilst others are restricted to persons having business there. And as is the case in most countries of South Asia, taking photographs of some public buildings is banned, so keep an eye out for any signs indicating restrictions before pulling your camera out.

If you’re looking for somewhere to walk or jog while in Islamabad, then the Rose & Jasmine Garden about 2km east of the Pakistan Monument along the Srinagar Highway is the best place to do it. It’s safe and there are always fellow walkers/joggers around or families having picnics during the day.

The garden has seen better days and suffered somewhat from a lack of maintenance during the Covid pandemic, but it’s still the best ‘nature spot’ in the city. Whether you’ll see many roses in bloom or smell jasmine flowers depends on the time of the year. There is an annual flower show held in the garden during December.

If you decide that you feel comfortable in Islamabad and decide to head north to sample some of the tourist destinations in Gilgit-Baltistan (which has some of the highest peaks in the western Himalayas) then it would be advisable to check out the Centaurus Mall in central Islamabad before you leave.

There will you find shops selling the highest quality gear for trekking (if you’re not bringing your own) and you can stock up on foodstuffs to supplement the local food if you end up traveling to more remote regions.

And finally, check out our article on ‘Health Tips for Older Travellers in Asia’ because food hygiene is not the best in Pakistan, so taking some precautions to avoid travellers’ diarrhoea will ensure that your visit to the north with be a memorable one and not spoiled by stomach problems.

Header image: © Em7