People from all around the world flock to Dubai for its world-class shopping, massive luxury brand malls and gold souks, but there’s much more to this cosmopolitan melting pot in the United Arab Emirates.

From humble fishing village beginnings in 1833 on the eastern Arabian Peninsula, Dubai expanded quickly to become a significant business, transportation and top tourist destination.

Although the second largest of the seven United Arab Emirates, Dubai is the most populous with almost 3.5 million inhabitants.

Renowned for its vast array of futuristic architecture, the world’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa at 830 metres, and the world’s only 7-star hotel, the Burj Al Arab (or Sails), Dubai, sits second to London for the most 5-star accommodation options in the world.

While extravagance abounds, Dubai is more than just a pretty face that keeps trying to beat itself at being the biggest or the best. It’s unique. From the sea to its towering sand hills, you’ll be captivated, like I was, with its history, culture, customs, diversity, foods, museums, top-class sporting events, theatre and festivals while still managing to retain its old-world charm.

Dubai’s extensive list of experiences makes it an ideal holiday destination for older travellers as well as those travelling solo and those looking for some adventure.

Although its traditional Islamic roots are firmly planted in its rich sandy surroundings, this forward-thinking city accepts other religions and is more liberal than its nearby neighbours.

This acceptance makes it the perfect haven for global travellers. However, dressing respectfully and conservatively, observing alcohol laws and certain religious customs during times like Ramadan will ensure your stay in Dubai is trouble-free.

Food, Fun and Fizz

From sizzling street foods to glamourous fine dining venues, culinary experiences abound in Dubai.

With over 6,000 cafes and restaurants, I guarantee you won’t go hungry. And the cuisines on offer are as vast as the cosmopolitan population. From traditional Middle Eastern and Arabic foods to Indian, Asian, American and European favourites, you’ll find all the flavours and styles to tantalise your taste buds. The hardest decision will be which enticing aroma wins out.

Friday is the beginning of the weekend in Dubai, and it’s famous for lazing around and languishing over a superb brunch.

You’ll find families and friends gathering to graze at many hotels’ lavish spreads. Although it’s illegal to drink alcohol in public in the UAE, all brunches come with a very reasonably priced bottomless champagne (yes, French champagne) option. At Palazzo Versace, the quality and quantity of foods on offer, even an ice-cream trolley wheeled to your table, is only rivalled by the opulent décor. If you fancy Japanese, Zuma’s brunch offers award-winning sashimi, sushi, maki rolls, tempuras, black cod and much more.

Naturally, there’s no shortage of Michelin Star establishments in Dubai either. Sample the world-famous celebrity chef delights of Gordon Ramsay and Giorgio Locatelli at the iconic Atlantis The Palm, Palm Jumeirah. Or Jason Atherton, Silvena Rowe and Atul Kochhar in Downtown Dubai and around Dubai Creek, and Gary Rhodes at Dubai Marina.

You’ll also find the magical two-hour evening dinner cruises departing from Dubai Marina. Savour sparkling city views as you enjoy a succulent buffet and live music.

If you really want to absorb the foody delights on offer, join in the Dubai Food Festival celebrations citywide during February and March every year. It’s jam-packed with activities, events, celebrity chef appearances and global flavoursome foods to fill your belly. 

If your stay in Dubai coincides with Ramadan, be aware that it is forbidden to eat, drink or smoke in public during the daylight hours, including chewing gum or drinking water while in a vehicle or walking around unless it’s a specially partitioned tourist-only area. Restaurants and cafes will serve meals, but they will be behind doors with no views. However, once the sun sets, it is feast time, and you’ll be deliciously delighted by the special Iftar festive foods on offer after dark.

While drinking alcohol and being intoxicated in public is illegal in the UAE, there’s no shortage of sophisticated bars and nightclubs that serve a complete range of alcoholic drinks in Dubai. Many are found within the hotels. Start the night at a sunset beach club before relaxing in a penthouse bar like The Penthouse and The Vault with majestic 72-floor skyline views, or party the night away at the Chameleon Club from 11pm to 3am. For discerning gents, GQ Bar is just for you.

You don’t have to be staying at the Burj Al Arab to enjoy the view. Sip a stunning cocktail at Golf on 27 or the Skyview Bar while taking in the cityscape. Dining is just as exquisite at Scape Restaurant and Lounge on the seafront outside terrace, or enjoy their seafood specialities at Al Mahara Restaurant, complete with floor-to-ceiling reef aquariums that make you feel like you’re dining under the sea.

Want to take your wining and dining to the greatest height on earth? Enjoy breakfast, afternoon tea or dinner at At.Mosphere on the 122nd floor of the Burj Khalifa for a unique experience that no other restaurant can replicate. The building’s platform with 360-degree views is on level 124. Pre-purchasing tickets to the lookout ensure you’ll avoid the queues and catch an express lift. A Giorgio Armani creation, it’s not surprising that the many wonderful bars and restaurants within the building carry his name. All are perfectly positioned so you can enjoy the Dubai Water Fountain displays below, with each restaurant having its own style, unquestionable culinary expertise and ambience.

Enjoy an Indian banquet at Armani Amal on level three, Italian at Armani Ristorante, Armani Mediterraneo for seafood and Mediterranean and Armani Lounge for exquisite drinks, casual fine dining and desserts, all situated in the lobby. Armani Hashi on the concourse serves traditional Japanese or savour a sophisticated brunch along with 24-carat gold coffee at Armani Deli, an Italian inspired gourmet restaurant on the ground floor.

I love live music venues, especially paired with good food and drinks, and there’s no set day of the week to sway your bootie around Dubai either. With a plethora of exceptional live performances to appreciate from Jazz@Pizza Express, the chic Nola Social House & Eatery, Q Bar at the Novotel, Blue Bar or Cooz at the Grand Hyatt to pop, karaoke, comedy and jazz at The Clavichord Music Lounge, and fabulous French food and jazz at the quaint and quirky St Tropez Bistro in Mall of Emirates or the atmospheric, old-school styled Moe’s on 5th.

With the large expat population in Dubai, there’s no shortage of Sports Bars either. All themed accordingly and serving massive hearty meals while you barrack for your favourite team. Being Australian, I enjoyed tri-nation (New Zealand, South Africa, Australia) Nezesaussi Grill in Manzil Downtown Dubai or larrikin Aussie fun at Bidi Bondi, Palm Jumeirah.

After Irish? Head to Dubliner’s in Le Meridien or Fibber Magee’s In Saeed Tower One. English? The Crown & Lion is king. American? Kickers in Dubai Sports City has you covered. Any sports? Baristi in Le Meridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort has live sports on big screens and live music with a beachside dance floor. The wrap-around poolside views and great food add to its relaxing vibe.

If you’re not sure what you want to eat, then check out La Mer at Jumeirah. This sprawling beachside development has over 130 restaurants amongst its shops and a waterpark.

Also, look out for ladies’ night specials. Every night different bars and restaurants offer free drinks to ladies along with bargain-priced meals.

It’s also worth noting that as a visitor, you cannot purchase alcohol at the supermarket without proof of residency and an alcohol permit (even though it’s readily on display).

Lucky for me, I had friends living and working in Dubai who purchased my supplies while I enjoyed a month-long housesit. There were no pets. I lived in and looked after a massive seven-bedroom, eight-bathroom residence by myself during Ramadan. Because of the sweltering temperatures outside, the gardener would routinely knock on the door and come inside to drink water.

Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow

Don’t be fooled by the relatively young age of Dubai either. Although cities like Muscat have a lot more to offer history buffs in the Gulf region, there’s still a lot that can be learned about Dubai’s history, traditions, dress and festivities at one of the city’s many niche museums.

The oldest is the Dubai Museum, established in 1971. Occupying an  18th century fort that protected the city before becoming a sultan’s residence and later a prison, the entrance is flanked by canons and a wooden dhow on the roof. Learn about ancient civilizations in the area, Arab lifestyles before the oil boom and read government documents outlining Dubai’s history.

The iconic Etihad Museum building doesn’t house anything to do with the airline. Unlike any other museum in content and design, it is home to the UAE’s modern history formation between 1968 to 1974. Etihad means union, and the museum is positioned next to Union House in Jumeirah. The white curved roof of the building represents the paper agreement. Inside, the seven golden pillars represent the pens of each UAE signatory.

Opened in 2019, Al Shindagha is Dubai’s newest museum. In the house of master perfumer, Sheikha Sheikha Bint Saeed, on the creek banks of old Dubai, there are 23 galleries. From the Perfume House, past and future technology in Windows of Dubai to Living off the Land and Sea, Creativity and Wellbeing, Governance and Society, it has something to offer every age and interest.

Go way back in time at Saruq al Hadid Museum, also on Dubai Creek. Through cutting-edge presentations, discover how humans existed in this desolate region as far back as the third millennium BC. Fancy being an archaeologist? You can partake in the hands-on simulated excavation site here.

Have loads of fun in the nearby popular and quirky Museum of Illusions. Tax your brain with the 80 plus illusions and tricks on offer. Defy gravity in the slanting Room, move without moving in the Vortex Tunnel or become gigantic or minuscule in the Ames Room.

While Dubai is known as a centre for gold, it was once a world-famed pearl hub. At the Pearl Museum in the National Bank of Dubai head office, you’ll not only see the world’s widest variety of pearls but Sultan Ali Al Owais’ private pearl collection. Learn all about pearls, the local traders, divers, their equipment and farming methods.

Did you know Arabs were the first to use coffee as a recreational drink, spreading it to the rest of the world?  Learn all this and more while also enjoy a cup of freshly brewed worldly varieties at the Coffee Museum in the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood. You’ll also find the free-to-enter Coin Museum nearby with eight different rooms dedicated to coins from North Africa, Islamic Spain, Turkey, Egypt and UAE.

Other unique museums include Naif Museum showcasing the Dubai police history in the old Naif Fort, the city’s first police station. Created from a private businessman’s personal collection, the History of Cinema Museum is one of only a few comprehensive cinematic collections in the world. You can look into ancient peep show boxes and turn old film projectors.

Get a perfect panoramic view of both old and new Dubai from the 50-storey gold-plated Dubai Frame. Opened in 2018, the Frame is constructed of glass, steel, reinforced concrete and aluminium, with two 150-metre high, 93-metre wide towers connected at the top by a 100-square-metre glass bridge. Naturally, this iconic masterpiece and the city’s spectacular skyline becomes a jewel in Dubai’s crown at sunset.

Do you have more sophisticated musical tastes? Be sure to catch a show at Dubai Opera. From Swan Lake to Mozart, all are world-class, including the unique architectural multi-formatted venue. This purpose-built performing arts centre hosts concerts, exhibitions, theatre, film and more. Guided tours of the dhow-themed building are also an interesting addition.

Another beautiful way to embrace Dubai’s past is to sail down Dubai Creek to the old town on an abra – a traditional boat used a river ferry. Wander the sprawling market stalls in Deira’s gold souk for all things sparkling and the textile souk for colourful cloths and tailormade items. Before visiting, brush up on your bartering skills to ensure you get the most for your money — the stall owners love a good haggle.

When Deira's iconic fish markets closed, the shiny new Waterfront Market replaced it. While it may be state-of-the-art, it still retains the market smell and appeal, with restaurants ready to cook up your fresh purchase.

Blending the past and present beautifully is Souk Madinat Jumeirah. It’s a modern souk where you can experience ancient Arabia while wandering its market corridors. Cruise along the three-kilometre waterways surrounded by lush tropical gardens in quaint abras, and check out the array of top restaurants, bars, shops, the on-site theatre or any of the three hotels to complete your day.

Four Legs, Two Legs and Four Wheels

Even if horse racing is not your thing, Dubai’s Meydan Racecourse is worth a visit. Completed in 2010, it replaced the 14-year-old Nad Al Sheba Racecourse. The Meydan Grandstand is grand in more ways than one. At a mile in length, it can accommodate up to 60,000 spectators for a great day of racing, wining and dining. Outside of the racing calendar (November to March), the restaurant is open for general dining, and I highly recommend it, even if just for the views.

Camels are an integral part of life in this region, along with traditional camel racing. There are many tracks around, but the largest is Al Marmoum Racetrack, where you can marvel at these lanky animals galloping at full pace with robot jockeys for free from October to April.

Apart from walking the miles of shopping malls, many don’t think of walking anywhere else in Dubai especially considering it is surrounded by desert. But hidden below, Citywalk Mall is a sustainable indoor tropical rainforest under a bio-dome complete with over 3,000 plants and animals from stingrays to sloths and a bat cave to explore.

There’s also a surprising amount of dedicated green space throughout Dubai, and many enjoy a picnic in a park. Check out the country’s first solar-panelled Khazzan Park, or enjoy watching boats sailing around the lake at Zabeel Park while having lunch.

Another way to stretch your legs is along the 11-kilometre boardwalk from one side of Palm Jumeirah’s crescents to the other. Circumnavigate this man-made palm-tree shaped island in the middle of the Arabian Gulf for some top city views.

Stroll around Ras Al Khor Wildlife Sanctuary, a wetland reserve that naturally attracts migrating birds. But amongst the 500 flora species, fish, small mammals and over 60 bird species, the real stars are the area’s flamingos.

If you’re counting your steps, you can rack up plenty walking around Dubai Mall, the world’s biggest, where getting lost is a given. But apart from a multitude of shops (if you are missing some retail therapy), you’ll also find Dubai Ice Rink and the Dubai Aquarium and Underwater Zoo home to more than 300 sharks and other aquatic marvels.

Outside the Dubai Mall, don’t miss the music, light and water performance of the Dubai Fountain. Even locals gather to marvel at this free show where water shoots more than 900 feet into the air in time with contemporary music during two lunchtime shows or mesmerising performances every half hour from 6pm to 11pm. With a plethora of restaurants and cafes surrounding the area, you may as well be comfortable and make a night of enjoying the performances over dinner.

Want something a little cooler? Head to Ski Dubai Resort in the Mall of the Emirates. Forget the outside heat. This resort has snow all year round with all the fun of being in the mountains from chair lifts, ziplines and even penguins. The slopes cater for beginners to the most expert skiers and snowboarders.

Or take to the air for a bird’s eye view of Dubai’s grandeur from a helicopter. Choose from a 12-minute iconic tour up to a 40-minute odyssey adventure. Check out the artificial Palm Jumeirah archipelago, The Atlantis Hotel, Khor Wildlife Sanctuary’s natural beauty and soar over the world’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa and much more.

There’s no point in visiting a city in the desert without venturing to the top of the many surrounding sandy hills in the great Arabian Desert. Go dune bugging and dune bashing, quad biking, sandboarding or camel riding. Learn belly dancing or dress in traditional Arab clothing to walk across the desert and have a falcon land on your shoulder. You’ll find an array of desert safaris on offer to suit every whim and fancy, including overnight tent stays.

If all this sound a bit too tame, here are a few hair-raising and more exciting activities to get your heart pumping. For the view of a lifetime while conquering your fear of heights, do a tandem skydive over Palm Jumeirah. The massive man-made palm-shaped island and home to Atlantis Hotel is a spectacular sight as you're floating back to earth.

Or slip down the nine-storey high Leap of Faith slide through a tunnel and emerge surrounded by rays, sharks and other sea life while safely protected in your acrylic tube at Atlantis Aquaventure Waterpark. You can also swim with dolphins and feed stingrays here.

Fancy a bit of surfing or bodyboarding? Test your skills and make a splash at the Middle East’s only 180-degree wave machine at Laguna Waterpark, La Mer.

Or zoom over Dubai Marina like superman on the Xline zip line. If you’re game enough to keep your eyes open, the city views will also thrill you.

After all this, if you still can’t resist some retail therapy, there’s no shortage of malls to keep you occupied. From Dubai Mall, City Walk, Festival City, Mercato Mall, Ibn Battuta Mall, WAFI Mall, Outlet Mall, Burjuman Centre, The Outlet Village, to The Beach, City Centre Mirdif, Nakheel Mall, Festival Plaza, Marina Mall and Mall of the Emirates — you’ll be sure to pick up a bargain or three.

Header image: © Sven Hansche