Rickshaws were once an integral part of life in cities across Asia, an essential means of transport for locals and visitors alike. 

Rapid development in the 20th century saw these pedal-powered vehicles fall out of favour in many countries as they gave way to newer, motorised forms of transport. 

But in Bangladesh’s capital, Dhaka, cycle rickshaws still hold sway. Huge numbers of them crisscross the city’s crowded streets every day. Most are brightly decorated and help give Dhaka its vibrant, bustling feel.

For many visitors to Dhaka, the sight of these slow-paced three-wheelers carrying passengers to all parts of the city is likely to be an abiding memory. 

Also known as a trishaw, a cycle rickshaw is essentially a bicycle with an attached carriage that seats passengers and luggage. A collapsible hood protects the passengers from the elements.

The motorised version is called an auto rickshaw and is widely used in Asian cities. There are many of these in Dhaka, where they are known as baby taxis, but the cycle rickshaws far outnumber them.

The origins of the rickshaw are lost in time. They may have been developed independently in different countries. But the Asian-style version is thought to have been invented in Japan in the mid-18th century.

The name derives from the Japanese word jinriksha: jin = human, riki = power or force, and sha = vehicle. In other words, a human-powered vehicle.

They soon spread to other Asian countries and became an important, inexpensive form of transport for decades. It was only after World War II, as the continent developed rapidly, that motorised transport began replacing them.

They remain today in countries like Singapore, Malaysia and Vietnam largely as tourist attractions, as an entertaining way of capturing a way of life long gone.  

They are still seen in some Indian cities, such as Delhi and Kolkata, but are viewed by many as an unwanted symbol of the country’s colonial past.  

In Bangladesh, though, cycle rickshaws have defied the trend and remain as popular as ever, especially in Dhaka. 

It’s easy to understand why. They provide an affordable means of transport for the city’s nine million people (21 million in the Greater Dhaka area), fares are negotiable and they can reach almost any part of the city.

They are ideal for short-distance travel. While banned from many major roads, they are well-suited for travelling through narrow lanes and reaching destinations in crowded parts of this hugely congested city.

Because most of them are unlicensed, it’s difficult to know how many cycle rickshaws there are. Estimates of the number operating on Dhaka’s streets each day range from 400,000 to 600,000 or more.

They provide employment for an army of rickshaw pullers. Many of them are young men with no formal skills who have migrated to the city from rural areas in search of a better life.

A study conducted in 2019 gave a fascinating insight into the lives of these hard-working men, commonly known as rickshaw wallahs. 

Most are in their 20s or 30s. But some are much older, doing this arduous work even in their 60s. Most work seven days a week, for an average of nine hours a day.

Almost none of them owns their rickshaw. Instead, they rent them from an owner. The more affluent owners have big fleets of rickshaws. 

The study found that rickshaw pullers pay the owners the equivalent of just over US$1 a day and can expect to earn up to US$10 – or more on a good day. A typical fare for a 15-minute ride can be up to 60 US cents.

The owner bears the costs of keeping the rickshaw in good working condition but if there’s an accident, the rickshaw wallah is usually expected to pay for the repairs.

Another important link in the chain are the artists who decorate the rickshaws. They create mobile street art. Much of their work derives from popular culture and includes depictions of film stars and other well-known people as well as scenes of nature.

A rickshaw puller’s life is a demanding one. They must work in all forms of weather including Bangladesh’s drenching monsoon rains. If they fall ill, they earn nothing until they recover. But as a means of transport, the rickshaw does have its benefits.

Apart from providing income for a lot of people - owners, pullers, artists and repairers – the rickshaws are eco-friendly and less prone to serious accidents than other, faster forms of transport. Above all, they offer transport that almost anyone can afford. 

There will be those who feel human-powered vehicles of this kind have no place in today’s world. Indeed, some Dhaka city officials want to see them phased out. But that’s not likely to happen any time soon. 

In the meantime, Dhaka remains the cycle rickshaw capital of the world.

Header image: © The Road Provides