Vassavasa – Thailand's Annual ‘Rains Retreat’ and Candle Festivals
One of the joys of visiting, or living in a country other than your own, is learning about the history, cultural, societal and other aspects of life in that location. Experiencing the foods, traditions, general practices, and the rhythms of life add to the value you take away from the visit. These insights, learnings, and interactions are what makes travel rewarding, uplifting, and mind-expanding.
As foreigners living in Thailand currently, we’re presented with near-daily opportunities for experiencing and learning something new about life in the ‘Land of Smiles’. These unique experiences could be related to history, culture, customs, language, food (yum!), and in this particular instance, the religious aspects of life.
I’m writing this in mid-October when the monsoon season, at least for the majority of Thailand, is coming to an end for another year. For Theravada Buddhists, which in Thailand equates to over 93 per cent of the population, this also means Vassavasa 'residence during rains' or Vassa ‘rains retreat’ is coming to an end. Interestingly, Buddhist monks actually calculate the number of years they have been a monk by counting the number of Vassa they have observed.
Theravada Buddhism is most active in Sri Lanka, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and Myanmar (Burma). It is sometimes called Southern Buddhism and is commonly accepted as the oldest school and largest subdivision of Buddhism.
The origins of Vassavasa can be traced back to Lord Buddha and his edict that during the rainy season monks, nuns and other devotees remain in their monastery or temple grounds and refrain from travel for the three lunar month period, usually from July to October. Why? Restricting travel reduced potential issues like monks damaging crops planted at the beginning of the rainy season; accidentally standing on and injuring insects or other small animals hidden in the sodden ground; or injuring themselves due to the monsoon rains, flooding and displaced wildlife.
It was suggested that monks spend this time meditating and developing their understanding of Buddha’s Dharma (doctrine or teachings). This practice continues in current times though monasteries and temple grounds have more suitable and somewhat more modern facilities for such retreats.
This is also the period where Thai boys and men become ordained as monks, spending time developing their understanding of Buddha’s teachings. They may only stay for the three months of the rainy period, but people see this as bringing merit and good omens for their family. In fact, when a young male suitor comes requesting the hand of a Thai parent’s daughter in marriage, they will want to know how long he spent as a young monk. And depending on that time, they will look on him favourably or not. It’s believed that the more he has learned the teachings of Buddha, the better man, husband and father he should be.
Asanha Bucha and Khao Phansa
Let’s go back to start of the rainy season where two religious holidays - Asanha Bucha and Khao Phansa - mark the beginning of Vassavasa.
Asanha Bucha marks the anniversary of the Buddha’s first sermon over 2,500 years ago. This sermon would later go on to form the basis of the Buddhist doctrine or Dharma. The actual day falls on the full moon of the eighth lunar month - typically in July or August. To mark the day, ceremonies are held in Buddhist temples across Thailand. Many Thai people return to their ancestral homes to make merit by donating offerings to temples and listening to sermons. Some Buddhist lay people choose to observe Vassa by adopting more ascetic practices, such as giving up meat, alcohol, or smoking.
The following day, Khao Phansa is historically the first day of the rainy season. In the pre-electricity era, one of the offerings people would make was candles which monks could use to help light the temple during the darker days of the rainy season. Though electricity is the norm now, the idea of candle-giving has morphed into one of Thailand’s more colourful festivals.
There are many Khao Phansa festivals across Thailand at this time of year. These boast a uniquely Thai blend of artistry, fun and celebration often accompanied by folk dances, and displays of local crafts. In some parts of Thailand, sound and light performances telling local stories are also incorporated into these celebrations. In recognition and respect to these holy days, the sale and public consumption of alcohol is banned throughout the country.
Here is a glimpse at some of the more significant festivals worth taking the time to experience if travelling in the country around July.
Three cities in the Issan (north-eastern) region of Thailand - Nakhon Ratchasima, Ubon Ratchathani and Nakhon Phanomhost host Candle Festivals of one to five days in duration. You will see candles exquisitely carved out of beeswax in every imaginable shape and size. The candles are set upon floats, paraded through town and ultimately presented to the local temples.
Surin, in the far south of the Issan region, hosts a Candle Procession and Elephant Merit Making parade. It is centred around a local Buddhist monument called ‘Phaya Surin’. A highlight is the early morning merit-making parade. The city’s most highly-revered monks, in a procession, sitting atop 80 or more elaborately-decorated elephants receive alms from the gathered crowds. A unique and memorable ceremony.
Ayutthaya, the kingdom of Siam’s ancient capital hosts an Aquatic Phansa Festival where the canals that surround the central historic and UNESCO-listed old city provide the avenue for locals to carry their candles by boat to the local temple.
Saraburi, just 2 hours’ drive north of Bangkok, sees people visit the local shrine of the Buddha’s Footprint where yellow and white flowers are offered to monks (Tak Bat Dok Mai) as a way of making merit. This has become a big event, and now thousands of people join to give alms to the monks as they ascend the steep stairs of the shrine.
Pavarana and Kathina
Vassavasa ends on Pavarana, a ceremony where all monastics come before the sangha (gathered monastic community) and atone for any offence that might have been committed during Vassa. This is followed by Kathina, which takes place every year in the four weeks following the end of Vassa.
The Kathina festival is a significant observance of Theravada Buddhism. It is a time for laypeople to offer cloth for robes and other necessities to the monastic sangha. Buddhist families take joy in providing fabric to their spiritual teachers.
In the area of Hua Hin where we live, we have three wats (temples) within one kilometre of our home. During these holy times, the chanting of the monks through the day and into the evening is easily heard and creates quite a spiritual and serene atmosphere. Though the ceremonies are centred within the wats and monasteries, they are not restricted to them. For non-Buddhists like us, we can still experience some of the happenings. For example, children from the local school chanted and danced as they paraded up our street to the nearest wat taking a distinct ceremonial candle as an offering to the monks. And in the main square of Hua Hin, a festive arrangement of stalls is set up so lay people can secure their ceremonial candles for merit-making at the temples.
Now settled here Hua Hin, Thailand, we relish the experiences that present. We see them as opportunities to learn about and deepen our appreciation of this country and its culture, and we hope you do too when travelling in the ‘Land of Smiles’.
Header image: © Somchai Sanguankotchakom
