Meandering Along the Iconic Waterways of Cambodia and Vietnam

Over the years, I’ve enjoyed many European river cruises. Gliding passed the massive castles and lengthy stretches of cultivated vineyard-covered mountainsides plunging into the beautiful peacock water, I always felt like royalty. However, I’ve never experienced a river cruise through Asia. I was excited to know whether it would evoke similar emotions. In January 2024, I found out.

The huge grins, warm, friendly greetings from the staff, the thirst-quenching, non-alcoholic cocktail, and the refreshing icy flannel were excellent starts, especially after the comfortable but lengthy five-hour bus journey from Siem Reap.

January is well into the dry season, and Southeast Asia’s largest freshwater lake and part of the vast Mekong River system, the Tonlé Sap Lake, is lower. So, a bus meets the ship further downriver. For us, this was at Koh Chen, where the river level allows for easy dockside embarkation for the start of our cruise.

I’m aboard the boutique teak and steel-hulled RV Toum Tiou II (TT2), partaking in their nine-day New Discovery Cruise. Introduced in October 2023, it sails from Siem Reap in Cambodia to Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) in Vietnam, or the reverse. All restaurant meals aboard, most on-land tours, English-speaking guides and Wi-Fi are included. Alcohol is not included. However, they have a good variety that is reasonably priced, or you can take your own aboard, and they will happily refrigerate it if required.

The RV Toum Tiou II (TT2) at Cambodia’s Kampong Chhnang.

TT2 is the second smallest of the five CF Mekong River Cruises (Compagnie Fluviale du Mekong) ships that have been navigating Vietnam and Cambodia's Mekong River and waterways since 2002. They are the longest-operating luxury cruise line on the Mekong. Their Croisi Europe river cruises are also highly regarded across Europe.

With just 14 airconditioned, comfortable, double private ensuite cabins opening onto the outside teak promenade and a top deck bar and lounge area, TT2 embodies the cosiness and old-world charm of a bygone era of romantic river cruising.

From day one, I’m engulfed by the priceless views of Cambodian daily life. TT2 meanders so close to the Tonlé Sap riverbanks that we can almost touch the waving hands of children and passing fishermen in their sampans. Although the murky khaki river waters and the unruly natural outlook aren’t the stylish, manicured sophistication of my European river cruises, it does evoke a magical and mesmerising experience where the relaxed, unassuming villagers who’ve rarely seen a tourist and the varying colourful flora and fauna overwhelm my every sense.

Fisher folk in their sampans on the river at Koh Chen.

Each included daily tour during our cruise opens additional insights into the provinces we are gliding through, making it the perfect way to be immersed in the Cambodian/Vietnamese culture and lifestyle. I found the diversity of these activities the most inspirational.

At Cambodia’s Kampong Chhnang, guests either bicycle 4km through the rice fields or relax on a short, air-conditioned minivan ride with the English-speaking guide to Andong Reusey Community Village. Here, in their own homes, we witness this talented community hand make pottery, palm wine, and palm sugar.

There were no electric or even foot-peddled potter wheels in sight. Sophat, the 30-year-old female potter, got her steps up by walking around and around a solid tree stump as she miraculously patted the clay with her hands and a paddle until she crafted a perfect pot for us by hand.

Sophat making a beautiful clay pot on a tree stump.

Next door, Mr Ry, 72, swung like an agile monkey between his 30m high sugar palm trees to show us what he does every morning and night. We saw how the palm juice is collected in the bamboo vessels slung around his slender waist and then made into palm wine and sugar by hand before enjoying a taste of the wine with him.

Certainly, an acquired taste and not for everyone, including me. I also wasn’t putting my hand up for Mr Ry’s 73-year-old wife’s job – consistently hand stirring the palm juice daily over a large black cauldron, turning it into palm sugar – all for US$1.75 a kilo!

You couldn’t help but fall in love with Mr Ry and his perpetual smile. He appears to be the happiest man on earth. But I suspect it has more to do with the amount of rice and palm wine he drinks (tastes) daily. Or perhaps he truly loves his uncomplicated life.

Smiling Mr Ry toasts our guide with a shot of his palm juice wine.

At Kampong Tralach, seated on the hessian bag-covered tray of an ox cart, usually reserved for transporting wood and other goods, I enjoy a 20-minute journey to Wat Kampong Tralach Leu (Pothi Rokha Ram Pagoda). It was a relaxing way to observe the countryside and local people as we plod along the roadside, school children on their bikes sometimes joining us.

Wat Kampong Tralach Leu is the oldest pagoda in Kampong Chhnang province. Verdant rice fields and large, vibrant pink water lily ponds surround it. Murals painted by Pal and Chea in the 1850s adorn the pagoda’s walls and ceilings. Although now deteriorating, they are masterpieces and a reminder of a more glamorous life.

At this contemporary, 18th-century monastery, we sit cross-legged on the floor with a monk who relays his life and religion, then performs individual blessing ceremonies for each of us before we return to TT2 for another mouth-watering, delightfully belly-filling lunch.

My relaxing but somewhat bumpy ox cart ride at Kampong Tralach.

All the meals aboard TT2 are included. Hot and cold buffet breakfasts, varying three-course lunches and five-course dinners. Each is much more than I’ve ever eaten anywhere. But the fresh Asian delicacies and individually chef-cooked offerings are also hard to resist.

That afternoon, an air-conditioned van transports us to Cambodia’s former capital, Oudong, where we stroll through the local market. It’s a true ‘local’ market. We are the only white people around. Exploring markets in any country always provides interesting insights, but the Oudong market is a real eye-opener. Fancy a stuffed frog for entrée? Snakehead fish for main and red ants with banana for dessert? Luckily, my delicious TT2 lunch has curbed any hunger pangs.

The main attractions in Oudong are the colourful Vipassana Dhura Buddhist Meditation Centre, temple, stupas, tranquil gardens, and a man-made lake with a massive golden woman and crocodile surrounding Phnom Preah Reach Troap hill. Here, a nun describes what it’s like living and learning at Vipassana. What the school offers her and others and insights into meditation, all while she crouches beside a round red plastic bowl, washing the lunch plates under her modest home.

The temple in the Vipassana Dhura Buddhist Meditation Centre at Oudong.

Later, while relaxing on TT2’s Sundeck Lounge, I was awestruck and humbled, reflecting on the insightfulness of the day and the simple Cambodian life. I feel truly blessed for the experiences.

The sunset arrival into Cambodia’s capital, Phnom Penh, adds another dimension to the day, and the traditional ‘Apsara’ Khmer musical dance performance in the lounge rounds out the evening.

The full day’s touring of the energetic capital includes all the big-ticket items, and it’s good to have our English-speaking guide to relay and add to the country’s varied and colourful history. At the same time, a comfortable airconditioned bus moves us quickly and effortlessly from place to place amongst the city’s hustle and bustle.

Apsara Khmer traditional musical dance performance aboard TT2.

Nothing seems rushed, but we are kept informed every inch of the way. From the outstanding Royal Palace, complete with an elephant in a room, and the Silver Pagoda, climbing the steps to Wat Phnom and strolling through the National Museum.

At the huge domed Central Market, I check out the creepy cooked critters, but my stomach turns at the mere sight of the crickets and tarantulas, and I gag at the thought of trying any. However, I enjoy a peaceful and more traditional Cambodian lunch at the local riverside Titanic restaurant on Sisowath Quay and a pleasant glass of French wine at the nearby Le Manolis afterwards while strolling through the French Quarter.

As the giant orange sun sets behind the high-rises of Phnom Penh, we farewell the Tonlé Sap River. At the same time, TT2 sails smoothly into the Mekong River headed for the Vietnamese border.

Creepy cooked critters on sale at Phnom Penh’s Central Market.

Shortly after sunrise the following morning, we slide across the border at Vinh Xuong into Vietnam. The shift was immediate. It was an eerie feeling. Like an invisible shield separated the two countries. Cambodia’s calm, peaceful lifestyle and collectives of skinny fishing boats have been replaced by the urgent commercialised businesses in Vietnam.

Large factory complexes glare menacingly on one side of the river, juxtaposing the intermittent patches of emerald rice fields, fruit plantations and uncaring cattle on the other side. Luckily, the Mekong is at least four times wider here, as massive barges loaded to the brim with sand, gravel and export goods share our cruising space on their way to Saigon.

We arrive at Chau Doc, on the Hau (or Bassac) River 250km west of HCMC, a few hours later. As a border town, it’s a melding of astounding sights and sounds (and smells!). A colourful kaleidoscope of multiculturalism and an unfiltered look at the Mekong Delta life where Kinh (Vietnamese), Khmer, Cham and Chinese communities have merged peaceably over the years.

Brightly coloured floating fishing farms and stilt houses dot the shores as our motorised sampan taxi whisks us ashore. Disembarking at Victoria Chau Doc Hotel, our waiting airconditioned vans transport us to sacred Nui Sam (Sam Mountain).

View from the cable car to Sam Mountain at Chau Doc.

The expansive glass cable car cabins on the 900m ride to the peak provide 360-degree views of the picturesque patchwork farming countryside and town below. The mountain’s steep slopes are dotted with pagodas, temples and caves. The most famous and sacred is Ba Chua Xu Pagoda. At the top, Chua Hang (Cave Pagoda) offers breathtaking panoramic views of Vinh Te Canal, stretching all the way to the Cambodian border.

Back at ground level, the unmistakable aroma of the bun ca that Chai Doc is known for assaults my nostrils as we dash up the street to the ancient Mieu Ba Chua Xu pagoda. A turmeric-based noodle soup, bun ca is made with river fish, fresh rice noodles, fermented fish paste, garlic, bean sprouts, banana blossoms and slightly bitter điên điển flowers. It’s a delicacy around the Mekong Delta and is renowned in Chau Doc. My mouth waters at the thought, but there’s no time to investigate; I’ve already lost sight of our guide and the rest of the group.

Mieu Ba Chua Xu pagoda is one of Vietnam’s busiest religious sites. It is the home of the Lady Chua statue, found atop Sam Mountain 200 years ago and brought down to rest. A re-enactment takes place every Lunar New Year. Thick circles of incense swirl around inside the temple as locals pray before the sacred Lady Chau statue, and devotees offer whole pigs, chickens, rice cakes, fruit baskets and fragrant bundles of flowering blossoms.

A peaceful rowboat ride through the Tra Su Cajuput Forest.

Our afternoon tour is to Tra Su Cajuput Forest. It is an 850-hectare lush haven, not just for locals and visitors but for a diverse array of birds and animals. It’s a natural wonder created by towering Cajuput (Melaleuca) trees, both Australian paperbarks and Asian whitewood trees that flourish in the permanently flooded wetlands.

We gently float through the meandering waterways, the abundant environment of paperbarks, carpets of jade waterlilies and huge Elephant ear plants on a two-passenger scenic rowboat ride, providing a peek at the many birds going about their daily lives without any interruption from us, their gay chirping, music to our ears. With over 70 bird species, it’s a veritable bird-watcher’s paradise.

Next, zooming beneath the veil canopy of large paperbarks, a long motorboat delivers us to the opposite end of the forest, where, from the observation tower, the panoramic and picturesque views of the majestic, serene, biodiverse ecosystem engulf my vision. Even Sam Mountain is visible in the hazy distance.

Some of the happy and ever-helpful crew on board the TT2.

On our return, the setting tangerine sun illuminates the multi-coloured floating fishing villages, and the ever-delightful TT2 staff greet us with cooling cocktails and refreshing cold flannels — the perfect end to another eventful cultural day on our New Discovery Cruise.

Sa Dec is called the sleepy garden town of the Cochinchina region. However, it was a hive of activity when we arrived at the local markets that backed onto the river the following morning. It’s where you can find the most exotic and authentic indigenous products. Everything is available, including fried rats, snakes, snails, frogs, black eggs, duck embryos, and plenty of traditional Vietnamese foods and tropical treasures. The intermingled smells of ripe fruit, raw meat and seafood, mystery organs and slippery creatures are another world. Watching and photographing market action always excites me.

The other colourful Sa Dec attraction is the greenhouse nurseries tropical plant and flower farms surrounding the city. Unique stations have been set up for Instagrammers to accommodate their popularity.

The Huynh Thuy Le Ancient House at Sa Dec.

A short stroll away, we admire the intricate and ornate interior of Huynh Thuy Le Ancient House while enjoying traditional tea and glazed ginger. On Nguyen Hue Street, the house is where French author Marguerite Duras lived and set her breathtaking literary novel, ‘The Lover’. Dating back to 1895, it is a treasure trove of nostalgia, from exquisite antique furniture and stained-glass windows to delicate bone china and painted cement tiles.

As we walk to Trung Vuong School, opulent temples and architectural mansions line the streets, reminders of the city’s lingering colonial past. The children are excited to see us, and the teacher gratefully accepts our Australian gifts.

After lunch, another sampan takes us to a community project centre. I initially thought this was a typical tourist haunt with souvenir items blanketing the entrance. But hidden behind the facade were locals diligently creating their masterpieces, which included producing various flavoured popping corn and rice cakes, creating, wrapping, and packaging coconut candy, and making delicate rice paper sheets for those delicious spring rolls we all love. We not only sampled each, but some also tried their hand at making the rice paper with varying degrees of success.

Experienced locals making rice paper at Sa Dec.

In amongst the paintings, kirigami cards. scarves, mats, hats, t-shirts and other souvenirs were bottles of rice wine infused with snakes and scorpions, also produced on the premises. Believed to improve virility and health, they are only for male consumption (thankfully!). I’m still sitting on the fence, considering the range of medicinal snake products and creams available claiming to cure various skin and muscular ailments.

Next was our cooking class at Cai Be, which didn’t pan out as planned for most of us. Thankfully, the real chefs had prepared a beautiful feast, so we didn’t starve. To work off our overindulgence, bike riding and kayaking were also on the menu after lunch.

Once again, our outing was void of other tourists. Cai Be and Tan Phong islet is enveloped by the Tien River and crisscrossed with canals and lush fruit plantations. Residents mostly farm jackfruit, longan, guava, rambutans, mangosteens, durians, and other tropical fruits and narrow lanes led the bike riders between these and a colourful array of flowering foliage, providing a firsthand glimpse into the locals’ lives.

A local resident bike riding the narrow paths at Cai Be.

Later, TT2 cruises towards the Mekong Delta gateway capital of My Tho, arriving just after sunset, ready for our early morning tour.

My Tho means ‘Beautiful Reed’ in Vietnamese. With a population of over 200,000, it is the largest city in the plentiful Mekong Delta region. Our tour is of the largest island, Thoi Son or Unicorn Island. Besides agriculture, fishing, and tourism, it is an essential port between the Mekong Delta and Saigon.

Day trips from the nearby Vietnamese capital, HCMC, are popular, and we witness the many buses rolling in around 11 am when our tour is finishing. We’d enjoyed nearly three hours without interruption, allowing more profound connections with the locals. Some guests rode bikes; others held a massive cold slithering snake at Dong Tam Snake Farm.

A relaxing sampan ride through one of My Tho’s many delta canals.

Peacefully gliding in sampans along scenic palm-fringed canals was much more relaxing, as well as learning about fruit harvesting and glazed fruit production and sampling (as much as we liked). Strolling the old centre and riverbank, I soaked up the authentic atmosphere and local life – the dilapidated, rusty tin roof houses, a collage of vibrant and fading colours in contrast to the dark chestnut river water.

The Mekong’s channels are like veins, infusing daily life into the catchments of rice, fresh fruits, vegetables, and countless fish species. People bathe, wash clothes, clean dishes and food in these waters, and sadly, throw their daily trash in it, too.

During lunch, TT2 begins the final leg of our journey along the Cho Gao Canal, the entrance to Saigon. It’s beautiful to be closer to the shore again, peeking into the passing temples, pagodas, and homes of farmers and fishermen. The canal is a water highway servicing over 2,000 commercial ships and barges daily.

Captain Tran Dinh Hoe guides us through the Cho Gao Canal.

This is a truly unique part of our cruise, as the five CF Mekong River Cruise (Compagnie Fluviale du Mekong) ships are the only cruise ships to sail this 29km canal connecting Saigon and the Mekong.

Bang on sunset, we cruise into lively HCMC, docking just far enough away from the line of brightly lit dinner cruise boats that their activities do not disturb us. Tonight, five of us have chosen the additional Vespa Nightlife Food Tour (at US$120 pp). And the little bright two-wheel vintage machines (1950 era) and our drivers (mature and sensible) were waiting.

The Urban Venture Tour advertises ’a lifetime experience’ – and it certainly was! It was a thrilling, fun four hours, without being dangerous amongst the craziness and chaos of the city traffic. A cocktail and appetiser at Zion Sky Lounge surrounded by the dazzling city lights of HCMC was the perfect mood-setter for the evening.

Heading off on our Urban Venture Vespa nightlife and food tour.

Back on the Vespa, it’s a quick duck and weave through the mass of other motorbikes and vehicles before we’re outside a small corner food shop, Sau Minh, talking with the 99-year-old lady owner as we’re handed our Banh Mi. My taste buds go into overdrive as I bite into the freshest short French-style baguette loaf stuffed with meat, veggies, and condiments I’ve ever tasted. Dare I say it – better than in France.

On the way to our next food stop, we zoom through the local flower markets, where my nostrils soar to heavenly heights. Seated amongst locals along the sidewalk on little plastic chairs and a low table, we share several fresh seafood dishes, rice, steamed vegetables, and a cold drink.

Our stomachs are bulging, and our minds are racing with excitement as we return to the Vespas and our excellent drivers. Still, there’s one more stop – a hot chocolate nightcap at Maison Marou Saigon. It melts magically in my mouth, and its smoothness melts my heart. I buy a box of special Lunar New Year dark chocolate to remind me of the fabulous, adventurous night. Not once was I scared, or did I feel unsafe (unlike when trying to cross the road in HCMC). We all vote this the most sensational way to see and experience the best of Vietnam’s capital.

Locals in their Sunday best at the Reunification Palace in HCMC.

A full day of touring ensures no major site is left unseen around HCMC during our second last day aboard TT2. It’s Sunday, and the Reunification Palace is bursting at the seams with locals dressed in traditional dresses, often posing with a bouquet or single-stem flower to create new Lunar New Year Insta photos. We soon discover the practice is ripe throughout the city. It’s as amusing as it is interesting.

Our English-speaking guide, Smiley (Vinh), explains every minute detail at each historic stop in and around town and on the airconditioned bus. Although young, this is his home, and he has some interesting anecdotes to impart.

We explore the Reunification Palace from top to bottom, walk around Notre Dame Cathedral and Saigon Central Post Office, with a maze of souvenir shops inside, and wander around City Square, City Hall, and The Opera House, where rap dancers are practising and recording their routines. Sadly, the only way to see inside the Opera House is to book a performance.

Decoration preparations in the Thien Hau Temple in Chinatown.

The War Museum and Ben Thanh Market round out the cultural afternoon offerings before sipping our farewell evening cocktails with Captain Tran Dinh Hoe, our purser, Mitch, the crew and other passengers. The city sunset didn’t disappoint either.

Hands cupped around my steaming coffee on the sundeck early next morning, I reflect on the past nine-day eye-opening and enlightening journey from Siem Reap to Saigon. The stunning scenery, extraordinary cuisines, authentic activities in Cambodia and Vietnam, and countless unique experiences and people interactions along the way have seeped into my soul.

Thankfully, we still have our final morning tour of Thien Hau Temple, sprawling Binh Tay Market within Cho Lon, Vietnam’s largest Chinatown, and a departure lunch at a local riverside hotel. While I don’t feel like royalty, I feel incredibly humbled and blessed to have had these experiences. I hope the peacefulness and stress-free feeling it afforded me continues throughout the year and many to come.